I have a 8" widespread lav faucet, I *THINK* it is Kohler but not 100% sure.



All of a sudden the left (HOT) side won't turn to open/close. The right (COLD) side works fine.

I removed the top handle lever and unscrew the round chrome piece. If I try to turn the top splined knob it will not move but if I force it to rotate the entire piece will rotate and get the supply line below twisted up.





If I put a wrench on the nut below and turn the spined knob it will turn with a lot of resistance.



Any idea what brand-model faucet this is and what part do I need to replace?

I have this issue a lot with Kohler when possible you need to hold back on the tee fitting under the sink bowl with a basin wrench and use a stem wrench to unscrew the hot stem it is sometimes easier to just replace the entire hot assembly, you can use a penetrating oil and let it sit for a day but flush it well there could be cross contamination… looks like Kohler and it usually says it in front or behind the spout

very tight with a pedestal sink on the underside. Is the stem removable from the top side?

If I turn NUT A in the picture below counterclockwise and find a way to "stay" the rest of the assembly that will remove the stem?



Once remove will the stem have any brand model number on it to identify it?

I looked on the Kohler web site and did not see one like it on their bathroom widespread faucet listing. It may be a discontinued item that is no longer listed?

will turning NUT B free the entire assembly so it can drop through the mounting hole to below?



Edited 2 times.

I cannot speak to the identy but if you remove Nut B it should fall through depending on if it is connected with soft connections. If not you must remove the Cold side nut B

Not that this helps much - but I'm 99 % sure it is NOT Kohler.

Pedestal sinks suck to work on. I avoid them at all cost.

If you have to have a pedestal sink use a single hole lav sink with single handle/hole faucet.

You could install a single handle/hole faucet on existing sink and install good quality sink hole covers in 2 unused holes.

Not the best looking option but it is a lot easier to work on then a widespread.

Just my 2 cents.

It is in situations like this where my trusty Makita Impact Driver shines. You merely have to hold the valve body underneath the sink with your hand (no tools needed) and the driver with an appropriately sized socket will spin the cartridge right out, even when the cartridge is stuck in place.

That is an odd cartridge, fully threaded above the hex nut. Never seen a Kohler cartridge like that. Anyway take the cartridge off and post a pic here, someone should be able to identify it. A member here named Curly (and there are others) is great at identifying cartridges.

Curly posted as I was composing my previous post.

An alternative to using hole covers is to use a single hole mount faucet which comes with a baseplate.

Delta Modern can be had with an optional baseplate

I don't see a brand name on the body, but the aerator says "AIR FORCE" don't know if this may help narrow it down.

Aerator markings do not help, they give info about the aerator but not about the faucet. Usual markings on the aerator are gal/min, litres/min and the various agency certifications like UL or CSA.

I was hoping that certain manufacturers may have exclusive use of some OEM aerators but perhaps not.

I have already looked through Kohler, Moen, Pfister and Delta's online products and didn't see anything that looks like it. I don't know if there is anything else that may help in the ID of this faucet, I would prefer to replace the stem then to take it apart and replace because I know I probably could not reinstall it without taking the sink bowl off the wall.

Thanks George.

George also has a good idea to use a faucet with base plate to cover holes.

Sum, If can get a picture(s) of the body (H&C sides, tee off spout - the more the merrier) of the faucet from under the sink and the pop-up drain assembly it may offer some clues as to who the manufacture is.

Sum a lot of times removal or the sink bowl is not necessary try to loosen the bolts securing the sink to wall then lift up enough to slide the leg forward to give you more room

bsipps thanks I will keep that in mind that may be easier than complete removal of the bowl. I do need to break the caulk seal between the wall tile and the bowl, as well as the drain to be able to lift it off an inch or so.

Curly thanks. I found some old pictures when I replaced the sink and added block backing behind the wall. It showed the underside.



Zooming in on the hot and cold.





On the cold side I can see some raised letters but I cannot make it out what it is, I wonder if it's the brand, or may be it's just "COLD" or "HOT".

I will take more pictures from different angles including the popup drain later when I go over there.

Hi Sum, I had a widespread a few months and found the brand cast into the brass end bodies with my inspection mirror.

If you a inspection mirror take it with you.

It looks familiar - I just can place it .......Maybe I saw it on a episode of Miami Vice......sorry could not resist.

It looks like you are not familiar with impact drivers. You can certainly reinstall a removed stem with the impact driver. As I mentioned already, it suffices to hold the valve body from underneath with your hands, no tools needed to hold the valve body.

george, thank you for the tip. I do have impact drivers, but I haven't tried to remove the stem from the body yet. Since this is a 1 bedroom 1 bath rental apartment, I have to keep the faucet operational until I can repair/replace it. The tenant says he hardly ever used the hot side, and have always just used the cold side which is working fine so for now I have the hot side stop valve turned off. I don't want to try to remove the stem until I have a new stem in hand to replace, because if I remove it and in the process I damaged it to the point it cannot be installed back properly, I assume this means the faucet cannot be used anymore - the cold side when turned on will have water shooting out of the hot side right?

My current plan is to be able to ID the faucet so I can order a replacement stem, in that case then I will attempt to remove and replace the stem. I probably should make sure I have the correct sized deep socket for it, not sure if it's Imperial or Metric. If I cannot ID the brand and source the stem, then a faucet replacement is my plan B, which I would rather not do until I have a tenant turnover.

I found the brand name, wow, it's not even one I am familiar with.

RUBINET.

[www.rubinet.com]

apparently it's a $500 faucet!

The handles are different not sure that’s the correct faucet

I already confirmed with the manufacturer that it is a Rubinet faucet. They have choices for the handle styles.

No warranty though, so a new cartridge will cost me $30 plus shipping from their distributor from Canada.

? no warranty in a comercial rental property >

or

? no warranty ?

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

No warranty unless I can produce an original receipt for it.

Basically I was not the original owner, no warranty.

Or if it was installed by a pro but the receipt wasn't passed to you, you are out of luck too.

I think technically Kohler, Moen, Pfister etc...have similar policies but they never asked except for a picture of the installed product.

thanks

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Being in Canada, I run into Rubinet faucets frequently. I keep in stock spare cartridges for them. There are two different ones, long spline vs short spline

thank you george. I was told by the distributor in Ontario Canada that I need these:

9XVLCSW1B hot
9XVLCSW2B cold

not sure if these are long or short splines.

why is the hot and cold cartridges different? Does it matter?

they also recommend that I change out both hot and cold at the same time instead of just fixing the one that's bad. what do you think?

when using lever handles it DOES matter


CW versus CCW operation



turn on cold = CW

turn on hot = CCW

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Those numbers are for the long spline ones.

I would just replace the hot cartridge. On Rubinet faucets, the hot cartridges are the ones needing replacement. The cold side is generally troublefree. I will replace just the hot one when I service Rubinet faucets even though I have a spare cold cartridge with me.

Attached is a photo of both the short and long splined cartridges.



This Phylrich cartridge has the exact same measurements and should work though I have not tried it out yet because I have easy access to Rubinet cartridges. You should be able to get the Phylrich cartridge #10242 locally.

[phylrich.com]

An impact wrench with a 16mm deep socket spins off these cartridges easily while I hold the valve body underneath the sink with one hand.

Just make sure you are not tightening.

You definitely do not want to do that!