I'm finally hooking up my basement sewage pump with actual plumbing to the 3" drainage main. I know I'm missing a check valve but is there anything else that doesn't look right? This is all dry fit to show where things will go. All the fittings are sweeps. Oh and it might be hard to tell but the long why is rotated 45 degrees up from level so the flow into the main is from side/above. Thanks in advance for any feedback!








Edited 1 times.

you need ONLY 3 - 90 sweeps, 1 - 45 sweep, the T-Y for the tie in, AND a rule and plumb bob



up from pump, offset with 2 - 90s (angle offset towards, or away from, main as necessary), over to horizontal with 1 - 90 ('square' to T-Y), down to rolled T-Y with 1 - 45



the 'tricky' measurement will be the primary horizontal piece (which can be 'up high')


you will STILL loop in from 45 above BUT w/o the rube goldberg of fittings

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

check valve ??? where is it ???

@ Packy

quoting the OP:

"... I know I'm missing a check valve but is there anything else that doesn't look right? ..."


@ OP

the check needs to be installed after the pump (DO'H) and before the valve (so it can be serviced while the sanitary piping remains in service)

recomend a (more expensive) "soft close" type to eliminate or minimize 'banging' sounds

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

@bernabeu Ok thanks, I'll try to simplify the rube goldberg Some of the twists are to accommodate the walls which will go around the pump and the limited space between the ceiling joists but I'll see if I can do what you suggested.

Thank you for the tip on the quiet check valve. I got this zoeller cast iron valve (30-0151 but I see nothing about it being "quiet".


Googling showed a couple zoeller quiet check valves but both are a lot cheaper than the one above so I'm puzzled. Is either one of these what i want?






Speaking of zoeller, I was going to use the 267 sewage pump, any reason that's not a good choice? Thanks.

[www.zoellerpumps.com]

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Don’t forget to secure the pipe to the foundation wall using split ring hangers, wall plates and allthread rod

don't need wall plates

need 'hilti type' quik-bolts - use rod couplings instead of nuts - rods direct to hangers

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

split ring hangers on a plastic pipe that will "jump" every time the pump discharges.

The pipe will jump regardless of what type of method is used to secure it unless it’s jammed against something or a silent check valve is used, or the riser is offset to the foundation wall and secured with ear straps

image for the principle only


one riser clamp

two 'hilti type' quik-bolts

two rod couplings (replace nuts)

two pieces threaded rod cut to required length

four nuts for hanger






done deal just like commercial work

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638