Ok here goes.. old row house in Philadelphia..thes are 18”? wide connected houses with a small backyard patio ,probably built in the 1930’s? Soil pipe from upstairs bath is outside the house and at some point the roof drain and patio drain connect underground to soil pipe then pops out of basement wall where someone before we owned it connected a no hub cast iron T and then to 4”pvc . Pvc then runs about 20’ and exists house to street sewer lines. I have no idea why they didn’t use a simple fernco to go from cast iron to PVC and then put the T later on?. ALSO cast iron sticks out only 6” where it enters basement through wall . It is about a foot high at this point also..problem is where no hub T attaches to cast iron it leaks .. How much ? In a 12” x 18” 6” high tray about a 1/4”… ia Heavy rain 3” in a 24 hour period..
Worm Clamp attaching rubber no hub to cast iron was rusted out and I was hoping new clamp problem solved .? So I wrapped some flex tape around joint put on a couple worm clamps leak still there..
SO is it leaking at rubber 20 + year old no hub rubber joint? Is cast iron Deteriorated So much it’s leaking thru the cast iron? Very hard to tell. If I take this apart will the cast iron crumble? Can I cut it back an inch or two and then fernco to pvc or does cast iron fall apart..
Can I take it apart fernco it up make a small form around it and pour epoxy ? That liquid concrete around whole connection ..
Or any other ideas ?? Thoughts ??

MAIN QUESTION IS If cracked and I have to cut it back will the pipe hold up if cut back with a sawzall



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? actual licensed bonded insured plumber onsite ?

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

You apparently are unsure how to do a proper repair, so call a "real" plumber to fix it properly.

oh i am going to get a licensed plumber in ..just talking out loud to see if any thoughts from experience

not a pro but have you checked to make sure there isn't a long crack along the bottom of the cast iron pipe where it's leaking?

thats one of the concerns and if it is cracked underneath will the pipe hold up to cutting it back with a sawzall

i'm gonna go out on a limb and say "cut it carefully with a fine tooth blade"

no, it will not


you need to replace ALL the 'worn out' cast iron

+

whatever you can 'reach' while you are repairing the leak


else


you will be working in the same or near spot AGAIN

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Cast iron is prone to cracks that run lengthways along the pipe. It may crack more when you try to cut it. Since you have so little to work with, I would consider cutting it outside on the vertical drop from the upstairs bath, use a Fernco to transition to PVC, then you are PVC when you make the turn to come back inside and you will be all PVC inside.

This means you will have to re-seal the concrete around the pipe, but you will eliminate that leaky connection once and for all.

There is a chance that the existing pipe can be cut back in the basement to a good stub and the Fernco installed there, but can't tell without pics.

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Not a plumber by trade but a fierce DIYer