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Author:
sum (FL)
I need to replace a section of my main drain (4" PVC) between point A and point D as indicated below.
The line makes a 90 degree turn by using two 45 degree elbows to avoid a tree north of A. The distance between the two 45 elbows (points B and C) is 14 feet, so it's quite long.
There is also an elevation difference of 6 to 7 inches between point B and C. Where as the lines upstream of B, and downstream of C is fairly flat at a typical 1/4" per foot.
In order to make this elevation transition of 6-7" between points B and C, I think I can roll the first 45 elbow at B down a little, and roll the second 45 elbow at point C up a little, is this correct? Any advice how much I roll it? Is there some way to calculate it or just "eye ball" it?
Or should I just connect them with no rolling at all and let the PVC flexs to where I need it?
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
roll them 1/2 a hair by eye
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
hj (AZ)
What color hair? We used to say red hairs were the finest and brunettes the biggest. But, as soon as you roll the upper 45 down, there is no way to roll the lover one and still make a 90 degree turn. I would use a 60 (1.6 bend) at the top and a 45 at the bottom with a 45 degree slope between them, or vice versa depending on whether you need "travel" between them.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
sum,
seriously
'roll' them juuust a touch and you will 'find' 6" over a 14' span
hj,
you are technically correct, but, sum has 14' to cheat
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Haven't you heard, "cheaters never win"?
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Author:
steve (CA)
Sum, 1/4" per foot over 14' is 3.5", so you're only dropping an extra 2.5"-3.5".
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Author:
sum (FL)
in that case may be I should just cement the joint straight without any rolling and just use the PVC's only flex to get me the correct heights? Or like Bernabeu suggested roll it a hair?
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
? you 'could' add a 45 + street 45 in the middle of the offset to get the 'drop' ?
? why bother ?
? are you done yet ?
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
slip a pipe sleeve over the exiting pipe
fill the gap with expanding foam
mix and pour concrete as required
AFTER AFTER AFTER
you complete and test the work
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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
sum (FL)
Bernabeu, the reason I did not finish connecting the pipe is because of the foundation wall.
The 4" comes out of that hole, which I cemented a short piece of pipe and terminated with a rubber cap for now, will have a two way cleanout and riser attached to it, then a 45 elbow, then a piece of pipe to meet the downstream pipe.
Once I put the CO and riser in place and connect the pipes, I will have no easy access to the hole to finish the repair of the wall. The CO riser will be in my way in the front, and the new pipe will be in the trench and every time I step into the trench I have to avoid stepping on the pipe as the trench is quite narrow.
That's why I am hoping to make the wall repair first, then connect the pipes after.
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
sleeve now
pour cement after
just in case
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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