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Author:
ACWick (GA)
Hi,
I have an unusual situation, I believe, and would love an expert recommendation. I have a home that is somewhat remote with approximately 1 mile from the water meter to my home. Unfortunately, over the past two years several leaks have cropped up in the 1.5" PVC line from the meter to my house (the line actually serves three houses and a workshop but are all "past the meter" so the local water company has no interest in finding/fixing the problem). I have been able to pinpoint the location of the prior leaks and have dug up the line only to find that the initial PVC installation was done without slip-joints (I believe that's the correct terminology) which have failed sequentially over time. I've replaced those sections with slip-jointed PVC. After the last leak (about a year ago), I replaced the final 1200' with 3/4" PEX, hoping against hope that that would end the problem.
Now my water bill has again skyrocketed but with no apparent signs of leakage.
So I think my only reasonable option is to run a new line from the meter to my house (but I welcome other opinions).
Would a 1" PEX line be a reasonable option (it would serve two houses and the workshop)? Or what would others recommend? I'm even thinking digging a well may be more cost-effective!
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Author:
bsipps (PA)
In my area we can only use type k soft copper and polyethylene pipe rated for domestic water underground, steer clear of type b pex over that long run the fittings will restrict the flow... so no water erupting from the ground have you checked for drippy faucets or running toilets
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Author:
notyoplumba (AZ)
I do not intend to sound nit picky, but I was to understand that copper pipe type K is the stiffest and strongest (copper) pipe to use for outdoor underground burial.
Studying IPC and UPC
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Author:
notyoplumba (AZ)
I’m no plumbing expert, but after buying my house last year. I’ve been an expert on all of its plumbing issues, inside and out. I have 2.5 acres, and my house is on the back side of the property (600 ft+) from the curbside town water meter. The house was built in 1996, but land had an old camp park from early 1940s (town wasn’t established until 1958). So, whenever I have to troubleshoot, I literally have to dig to find out. I’ve discovered the very hard way that most of the water main line was built during 1940s and never built properly to code.
Thus, when my water main broke on Friday night of this past Easter weekend, I was extremely lucky, I was right there when it happened and able to shut off the water meter on the street curb. It was a time bomb waiting to happen: brass water meter connected to rusted out galvanized pipe, then pvc pipe then rusted galvanized pipe. The threaded pvc pipe connected to the 1” galvanized pipe—at that connection there was a stress fracture that began as a slow crack probably around 20 years ago. I do not like pvc threaded into metal pipe.
I had to dig down three feet and make a pit in order to access all the eff ups. Additionally, the meter union fitting was barely hand tight (I discovered this ONLY after removing a root ball that wrapped around the union fitting.) I determined it must have been a slow leak for twenty years; the roots were drinking and “strangling” the union, thus no water leaking beyond the roots. Oh, and then I discovered the (resident) side had a shutoff valve buried and bent handle—who would’ve ever located it? There was no access, just my pure luck guessing where to dig.
I took it all apart and designed built built a new line system from water meter to my property pipe entrance. It cost me about $300 in parts. Now, there’s a very professional-looking access cover with easy immediate access.
Now, I’m trying to relate to your experience. At the water line entering my house (600 ft away from the city water meter), I had to dig down more than 3 feet. Again, plumbing nightmare and timebomb ticking but no abject failure yet. 1” vertical pvc pipe threaded to rusted out galvanized pipe with 1/4 turn ball valve above grade. And again, another useless stupid ball valve buried around 30 inches deep with NO access! The pvc pipe is bent at an angle near the pvc threaded connection to rusty galvanized pipe.
I’m redesigning that line with new galvanized pipe and ball valve just slightly below grade (that will now be accessible since I’m using minimum 2 feet depth of varying gravel.
Why would I use galvanized pipe? Because I’m saving serious money to replace the ENTIRE 600 feet of line with 2 inch diameter copper pipe type K. Fittings will be for only straight runs. I’m going to have to rent a trencher machine because I psychological limit as to how many feet I will dig by hand 3 feet deep (that limit for me is less than 100 feet with a narrow trenching hand shovel).
I purchased a Phyn smart meter (with automatic shutoff valve), mainly because my old house has the old butylene piping (yes, the pipe that everyone had class action lawsuit that cost the company BILLIONS of dollars. My favorite plumber (I’ve hired when I was clueless when I bought the house), said I’m EXTREMELY lucky that all those PB pipes have not all failed yet. I personally think because I live in Arizona desert region in very southern part of AZ that is very dry and no exposure to chlorine, the only issue is very hard water.
If ANY line fails inside the house, the Phyn will automatically shut off the water and send me an alert to me anywhere.
I wanted to share this with you regarding your expensive water leaks happening outside. I’ve learned that when I’m fixing or replacing troubled fittings or fixtures, I add 1/4 turn ball valves. Sanity check: adding extra valves to your lines that are leaking yet not located. Considering your vast distance of water line, perhaps you can install 1/4 turn ball valves by half distance, and then half of that distance and so on. Let’s say for practice sake, for 1 mile piping you could install valve. Additionally, you can install relatively inexpensive liquid-filled water pressure gages in front of each valve. In fact, that’s what I’ve done since I’ve “inherited” more than 10 (yes 10, it was a camp park area in the 1940s. Literally, I’ve been randomly digging and located a bunch of outdoor water faucets). I’ll be placing ball valves in the lines near certain number of water faucets; that way, I don’t have to run up to 600 feet every time to shut off the water main at the street.
Studying IPC and UPC
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Author:
notyoplumba (AZ)
I correct myself. There is Type K pipe that is flexible.
Studying IPC and UPC
Edited 1 times.
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