Inspector notes on repipe -

1) Make hosebibs rigid.
2) All pipes in exterior walls must be insulated and 5' past exterior walls.
3) All hot water piping elsewhere must be insulated.
4) All piping must be secured every 6'.

I am having problems with getting things right. Pex lines were not run with enough slack to move them to one
side of bays and secured. We cooked up cutting 2 x 4's to a length, drilling pilot holes, and running screws
through to secure on sides. Seems other than productive. A better method available?

They also ran an abomination to feed a fixture near the washer and dryer. A tee is in a wall and out comes a
pex line, 1/2" which is 20" long and supported to nothing.This is a couple of inches below the back of the
washer or dryer. There is an electric outlet behind the run and in the middle of it... one possible point
to secure the run to. Maybe 2 wood stand offs put in with toggle bolts and secure goofy run with plastic
clamps?

The points of termination "through walls to fixtures" are not secured. This seems a common thing. What passes
For professional support wise? What contraption?

All advice appreciated!



Edited 1 times.

pictures please..

I use these a lot for supporting pipe.

[www.siouxchief.com]

Hopefully, you didn't pay the bill before you noticed these issues. Sounds like handyman stuff. It's always good policy to get an upfront proposal detailing that everything will be installed to code. Always check the job before paying the final balance. That way they have an incentive to do the job right the first time.
By the way, no good plumber will get offended by asking to see his license. It's sad to say, but in 35 years, I don't recall anyone asking to see my license, other than an inspector.

I never had anyone ask for my license, or any other documentation, in 65+ years.

Tom

I like those brackets. Used them in new construction.