I found this fitting on a hardware stores website and it says it connects pvc to cast iron. Can you use this fitting to connect pvc to cast iron with a donut? I cant find any to fit except a piece of 4 inch green sdr 35 pipe.



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[www.ferguson.com]

I assume you mean this push gasket not the easiest way cause you gotta lube the pipe and push like hell to get the pipe in sometimes using a grinder to bevel the pipe

Another option is to pack and pour a 4x3 pvc caulk ferrel

if one is doing one or two joints only, one can always caulk lead wool instead of pouring liquid lead

Quote

The 5 lb. Lead Wool is used to seal hubbed cast iron pipe fittings. Lead wool is used in lieu of molten lead. 5 lb. per box. Primarily used with hubbed cast iron pipe fittings. Easier to use instead of molten lead. Creates seal when used with oakum.

the key words are: when used with oakum

the oakum is the actual seal - the caulked lead (note the internal groove at the top of the hub) packs and compresses the oakum and 'rigidifies' the joint


the reason molten lead is used for multiple joints is that it is QUICKER (not counting the melting/carrying/pouring time) per joint as it requires MUCH LESS actual caulking than lead wool

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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Damn bern that's nice I've never seen that before, although I am in the pvc club the only thing i really use ci for is replacing an old flange, does it really hold like molten lead does?

yes, it does

BUT

joint for joint it requires WAY WAY more swings of the caulking hammer in order to make it 'solid'



the oakum is packed/caulked into the joint

the lead merely forms a casing to hold the oakum, and (using the groove in the hub) locks all in place


the readon for caulking the poured lead (after cooling, d'oh) is that it contracts after cooling completely and 'breaks the seal' - it merely needs to be 'expanded' laterally back into place




==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

lead wool can be "poured" upside down but not molten lead.

Sum, on the contrary.

steve,

the diagram does not show the 1/8" relief hole (air release vent) which must be drilled at the 'height of the desired joint' line and then sealed after the joint is caulked (albeit, theoretically, it can not leak anything)

one of the original uses for plumber's epoxy in the 'cut and knead' tube form






yep, been there, done that --- on the return bend(s) of roof vents --- NYC flat roofs, vent stacks ending 8' above roof to allow 7' code requirement for height above occupiable space --- return bend installed to prevent debris from being tossed down vent stack --- laundry and TV antenni all over the place - mounted on said multiple vents


also known as tar beaches



glad to see they are 'somewhat' still in existance

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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I have heard it's possible to use poured LED when mating a PVC up to a hub cast iron. Is that true?

steve, I have heard about this, but have never seen one upside down leaded connection, and I have asked a few plumbers and no one had ever done it. Is it a myth?

Yes you can use poured lead for a PVC caulk ferrule I've done it a few times and it works well,

sum,

i have PERSONALLY done a few (less than 6)

they were primarily done on roof vents making a return bend to eliminate occupant's trash insertion

BUT

i did one as a repair in lieu of opening an elaborately tiles mosaic wall to acces from the other side for a 4 piece 'dutchman'

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638