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Author:
burnttwice (VA)
I installed a Delta MultiChoice R10000 brass shower valve in my house using copper tubing. The water lines run to the valve through two ball shut off valves and six elbows. I cleaned the copper tube ends with sand cloth and inside the fittings and valve ports with steel wool wrapped around a drill bit. Then I fluxed the tubing ends and inside the fittings. I then sweated the joints with a basic hand-held propane torch and Oatey lead-free solder. When I finished I turned on the water to test for leaks and I fount two leaks, both at the valve. The shower head connection leaks and the cold water connection leak at the copper to brass connections on the valve. None of the copper to copper joints leak. I have tried re-sweating the leaking joints several times but they still leak. My first question is why are two of my copper to brass connections leaking? The brass valve ports seemed difficult to heat evenly with my torch and the leaks are in the back where it is hard to reach with torch and solder. My second question is what to do to stop the leaks? Would a different torch help? There was no water in the pipes when I sweated them and it is easy to drain the water out of the pipes and valve when necessary. Do I have to take the leaky joints apart and redo them with new copper tubing?
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Author:
steve (CA)
The joints need to be disassembled and inspected. Too much heat, not enough heat, no flux and not clean enough are the reasons for joint leaks. I'm betting on not enough heat. From what I've read, the new no-lead brass expands more than leaded brass and the copper pipe doesn't get proper heat transfer to it, without giving some heat to the pipe and not just the fitting. In areas that are hard to get a torch to, I try and make up those joints "on the bench", so I know I have proper heating all around and not concerned with accidentally burning something in close proximity.
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Author:
packy (MA)
steve, i don't believe shower valves have to be no-lead.
i do agree too much heat or misdirected heat will cause leaks every time.
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Author:
steve (CA)
You are correct, that the "no-lead" requirement is for potable water components. I thought some mainstream companies also had LF tub/shower valves, but that does appear to be the case. Slap on a Prop65 label and send it out.
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