Hello

I am in the process of designing a home. The location of the home is approx 2250 feet off the main road, which is where the meter will be set. My questions are:

1. What type of material is best to run this long distance. The soil is sandy loam.
2. What size line should I run?

Thanks

You will probably be using poly pipe.

Size depends on:
1) pressure at the street
2) size of the meter
3) type of pipe you decide on
4) change in elevation
5) fixture units - based on everything that uses water on the system

I would use pex because there would be less connection fittings by using 100 ppt rolls pvc pipe is 20 ft sections which would afford too many glue joints

"B" expansion type PEX to maintain ID

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

i would use... 2" x 500', CTS x CTS, 250 PSI, Black, HDPE, Water Service Tubing.

with compression couplings.

[www.fortiline.com]

you will need a storage tank at the home

you will fill the tank slowly (using the requisite pipe size to account for friction losses in the 'run') from the meter

you will require a pump and compression/resrvoir tank to supply the home FROM said storage

OR

you will need a pump at the meter end to supply hi pressure which the friction loss due to the run of piping will lower on the way to home - controls will be problematic

OR

use a well local to home

you will need an EXPERIENCED plumber and/or architect and/or engineer



? check with any potential neighbors in similar situation ?

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 2 times.

You can forget about seeing any usable pressure at the end of that run, your going to have to suck it out of that line. I would speak to someone at a store (not home depot) that sells well pumps and tell them your situation. Pump and a tank with a bladder.

If the water does not flow out of the line, "sucking" it will just create cavitation at the pump.

Than how does a shallow well pump you fine in some ones basement avoid this?.

there is no friction loss for the incoming replacement water


when you pull a vacuum with a centrifical pump in a closed system the water on the suction side actually boils (aka flashes into steam) which creates small 'explosions' due to 1700:1 expansion

generically known as : cavitation

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

interesting bernabeu .I have installed pump and tanks for people far off the main street (long run) many times with a any problems. how does a pump like this(link below)avoid cavitation?. not being a wise guy, I do respect your opinion and I love learning even after 38 yrs.


[www.youtube.com]




[www.youtube.com]



Edited 3 times.

either:


the pump is so 'sloppy' that it will not cavitate
(still possible to overheat)


OR


the 'black box' on the outlet prevents said cavitation by regulating flow VOLUME


(ps. i did not mean that centrifugal pumps WILL cavitate, i mearly explained what cavitation IS when they are 'starved')

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

It does a number to Propellers on boats and submarine too.

only when they are consistently run at or over 80% of their rated RPM



"Scotty, give me more speed."

"Aye, Captain, I'll see what I can do."

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638