Hello All, Happy New Year!
I've been working on a basement redo in a 1968 raised ranch in Massachusetts. The basement is a partial walkout in the back and the main septic drain comes into the basement right at floor level, the cast iron clean out is about a 1/4" into the concrete floor.
It had a poorly placed DIYer macerating toilet in the past. I'm trying to get away from that to make things simple. I'm laying down foam board and plywood that will raise the floor level up 2" higher. I'm trying to add a bathtub, toilet, and vanity on a wall (to be built) perpendicular to the sewer line. So, very close proximity.
Based on what I describe below, am I over complicating things to avoid a pump up system for no good reason? Special toilet cost is about $500, special full tub enclosure is about $800.

Here's my thoughts:
1. Install a yorkville rear discharge pressure assist flush toilet so the toilet flange is 4" up the wall (6" above the lowest part of the sewer outlet)

2.Install a Sterling Ensemble 60" Above floor drain tub to give room for the Ptrap. The bottom of the tub will now be 5" above the bottom of the sewer outlet and there's about 2' total of pipe and fittings.

3.Drill out the clean-out in the cast iron pipe and replace it with a Fernco donut adapter to reduce to 3" PVC.

4. Add a long radius wye 3x3x2 to serve the shower, it will need another long radius 90. Add a check valve inline and a vent close to the shower p trap. More on vents later.

5. Add a 3x3x3 45 wye and a 3" 45 street elbow, this one goes into the wall to feed toilet and sink. I'll put in a vent in between the two. Install a toilet flange on the wall behind the rear discharge toilet.

6. Add a 3" cleanout cap on the end.

7. Tie the 2" vents together into a preexisting 2" unused sink drain that vents into the stack on the second floor.

many things wrong with this project.

first and foremost, you can not perform plumbing in massachusetts unless you are a licensed plumber.

having said that...

you can remove the end cleanout but you can not reduce it to 3 inch.
you need to put back a 4 x 4 x 3 "Y" with a full size cleanout in the end.
you can not vent into a drain of another fixture upstairs.
a check valve in a tub drain is not a good idea. it will clog in a few weeks and become useless.

i would just use a macerating toilet (saniflo) and drain the tub into the side of the tank.

Thanks for the reply Packy...
What was it my Electrician buddy said? You know why you can do your own electrical work but not your own plumbing in MA? There were no Electricians on the Mayflower.

I'm in early planning stages at the moment, trying to plan and budget, then look at contractors.

There's an old Quik-Jon 201 pump-up unit down there now but I'm not a fan of raised floors. I'll have to re-evalute the saniflo option.
Thanks

The upstairs sink was removed, I saw the vent tied into the stack when the kitchen was redone. The sink drain is capped behind the fridge.

well, if you add a 4 x 4 x 3 "Y" and maintain the 4 inch full size cleanout and have sufficient slope to use a back outlet toilet then you will be ahead of the game not having to use a pump.
a tub with a raised bottom should work but remember the outlet of the toilet is 4 inches to center off the floor. the tub may need to come up a couple of inches so that the outlet of the trap is a little higher?
if the upstairs sink has been removed then that pipe can be used for the basement vent.
as for venting.. use a 3 x 2 "Y" in the toilet drain as a vent and drain the tub directly into that 2".

Quote

..... You know why you can do your own electrical work but not your own plumbing in MA? .....

because the electrician's leaks don't show




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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

one of my favorite complaints..
in MA we can not use plastic pipe in a commercial building.
in NH you can.
so, hyperthetically there are 2 small coffee shops.
one in salisbury MA and right across the MA /NH border in seabrook NH there is another.

the piping for the kitchen in MA is all copper and cast iron drains.
the piping for the kitchen in NH is PVC.

OMG, the people in NH will surely die of the plague. or will they ?

Packy, you close to the southshore/uppercape? I do my research because I don't trust a lot of people. Reading your comments on here, sounds like you're the kind of plumbing contractor I'd hire.

Bernabaeu, I just had my 1968 screw-in -fuse electrical service completely updated. My buddy didn't cut any corners. Fully to this years code, arc fault breakers. Cost me $2k over what I could have got under last years code. But, they will now show the leaks in the electrical systems.
It's a great feeling for electricians and myself. The wiring is now in continuous testing of dangerous failure points.
BTW, I'm an electrical engineer that designs and field tests underwater robotic systems for the NAVY. I know about electrical, plumbing, and mechanical in a very different venue.
I don't know code, I can't tell you the name of one wye from the other, but I know I don't and look for the right people to help me. That's not a rant, just happy you guys are willing to chat on here.

I am an old Navy Yard fitter myself.


? Are you referring to Ground Fault/Arc Fault Circuit Interupters ?

Had 'em in MY home for the bedrooms for over 20 years - as well as SDs in EVERY room (photoelectric in kitch and porch)




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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

i'm up here on the other cape..
cape ann..

way too far to help..