Dear All:

Happy New Year!!!

Finally created a YouTube and a Facebook a/c and uploaded some videos and photos.

I believe that our plumbing system has problems caused by the PEX and the water pressure. The plumber I hired back in Nov only told me to replace the PRV which had been done. However, the banging noise and the water pressure problems remain unsolved. I have scheduled a whole home plumbing inspection this Wednesday,

I will appreciate it very much if you would help review these video and photos and let me know if and what I should bring to the inspector's attention. So that hopefully s/he could find all the problems and resolve them altogether.

Thank you!!!

The PEX and banging noises
[www.youtube.com]

The water pressure
[www.youtube.com]



Edited 1 times.

Well, unless he/she is an unusual "inspector" all they will do is tell you what you already know about the problems, but have no real solutions. The sagging PEX looks like it WAS in hangers but popped out when the pipe "grew".

You may need a mini arrestore installed.

srloren

This a continuation of a previous post. [www.plbg.com]

I've never checked pressure drop from a toilet, but 25psi seems high. Does the bump in flow at a faucet happen with both hot and cold?

It might be cheaper to repipe the house than try to fix shoddy work.

It probably 'meets code' BUT you now have a minimally acceptable system.

It would require MORE labor to find and fix all the 'friction points' than it would require to repipe PROPERLY.

PEX 'should' as a good or best practice (like ANY pipe) be insulated with any hangers/supports placed on the insulation EXTERIOR (using appropriate insulation shields as required) AND installed in such a manner as to allow for expansion and contraction.

If one MUST run PEX 'bare' then it must be run 'loosey-goosey' in a snake like fashion with loosely nailed hangers (a la vinyl siding).

As for the PRV: replace with a: [www.grainger.com]

reference for model number purposes, matters not where purchased

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Many thanks, hj.

What would be a real solution? The builder stated "Your home does not show any signs of water damage, leaking pipes or reason to believe there is anything to be worried about." I contacted the inspector who heard the banging noises back in Sept, he suggested reaching out to a master plumber instead of the whole home plumbing inspection. What do you think? Thank you!

Have a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year!

Many thanks, Steve!

The bump in flow at a faucet happened with cold water and both hot and cold as well. Does it make any difference? Thank you!

Have a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year!

Many thanks, srloren.

Our small one-story house already has 3 water hammer arrestors in the kitchen, laundry room and main service line.



Have a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year!

hi fiona.. happy new year..
let me say that on this site there are dozens of plumbers with hundreds of years of experience reading you posts and scratching our collective heads saying "what in the world is going on here?"

i'm sure there isn't a plumbing scenario all across the country that one of us has not seen.

kinda like all the scientists around the world scrambling to find a vaccine, i would love to be the one here to say "i know exactly what this is."

one theory i am leaning towards is undersized piping leading to excess velocity of the water. yeah, it can move too fast and cause problems.
have a read here... [www.google.com]

Many thanks, Bernabeu!

I thought about the repipe option the other day. Knowing the builder or the plumber would not easily agree and pay for it, I am not sure if and what else I could do? BTW, how do I know if the built-in water hammer arrestors on the washing machine are good? It seems the water is hitting the walls or something and makes loud banging noises after the washer fills up water during the last wash cycle and the rinse cycle.

I did some online research -> "This noise may occur while the washer is filling. It may be caused by too much water pressure. Try adjusting hot and cold water valves. ... If this does not correct the problem, the screens in the water valve may need to be cleaned or the water valve may need to be replaced."

Our water pressure is 95 PSI now, mysteriously increased from 55 PSI from 12/18/20. I can't wait to see what the plumber would find or say this coming Wed after the inspection. Until then...

Have a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year!

Do you know what the water pressure is on the street side of the regulator?

? do you have a PROPERLY CHARGED expansion control tank near the water heater ?


proper air charge in psi = psi setting of prv - usually 50 psi



[basicplumbingknowledge.files.wordpress.com]



also .... a cheap or failing PRV will allow pressure to 'creep' upwards under no flow conditions


? what is your pressure with a single sink faucet open ?


packy may have 'nailed' the issue re: inadequate pipe size,

PEX, due the restrictions caused by the INTERNAL fittings, often results in undersized pipe systems


a 1/2 PEX tube has the equivalent ID of 3/8 due to the fittings



YOU NEED A MASTER PLUMBER ON SITE NOW


Consider the cost as an educational expense and the results admissable in court.

This entire issue will 'hinge' on the exact wording of your 'purchase contract'. If it merely specified meeting minimum code you are s/o/l.

If, on the other hand, it contains a reference to good acceptable trade practice or specific specs .....

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Pex is a great product It needs to be secured every 32 inches water pressure should not be over 80 or under 2
40 psi I would remove the flow restrictors in the faucets and shower heads They are required by mfg and code but a lesser flow just means a longer shower so nothingsanes water just like the ridiculous dual flush toilet

Hi Steve,

It was 80 PSI on 12/14 measured by the city meter tech. However, it was 50 PSI from our
basement faucet (3:40 pm) -> 70 PSI (5:53 pm) -> 50 PSI (9:59 pm)

12/18 - 55 PSI -> Basement Faucet
12/29, 1/3/21 - 95 PSI -> BF

Many thanks, Packy!

I can't thank you and everyone "here" enough. It's been very frustrating dealing with the builder and the plumber. With your help, hopefully I will be able to resolve this plumbing system issue ASAP.

Have a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year!

Many thanks, Bernabeu!

? do you have a PROPERLY CHARGED expansion control tank near the water heater ? -> The thermal expansion tank was replaced on 10/27/20. (Please see the photo below.)

a cheap or failing PRV will allow pressure to 'creep' upwards under no flow conditions -> Pls see the photo below for the PRV replaced on 12/2/20.

? what is your pressure with a single sink faucet open ? -> approx. 87 PSI (Pls see the photos below.)

the expansion tank has a schraeder valve for 'air charging'

use a tire pressure gauge to check the air pressure

should be the same as the desired set point pressure from the reducing valve

if water comes from the schraeder valve the diaphragm is ruptured and the tank needs replacing

ps. your pr valve is an unbranded POS

have it replaced with a SERVICEABLE quality brand such as Watts


WHAT WILL THE MASTER PLUMBER RECOMEND ?

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Many thanks, mr leak!

I am not sure if and how to convince the builder or the plumber to remove the flow restrictors. As you can tell, they are very reluctant to "help" resolve the problem already...

Have a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year!

from the internet as regards undersized piping and excessive pressure loss when a fixture is used.

"Increasing the pipe diameter won't change the static pressure (the pressure when no water is flowing). When you open a spigot, however, the water pressure at that spigot decreases somewhat, and because a larger pipe provides a lower resistance to flow, the water pressure will decrease less with the larger pipe."

fiona, this just addss to my theory of undersized piping.

i believe 3/4 pex is inadequate for a water service.

so, smaller pipe combined with excess pressure results in increased water velocity which contributes to movement of hot water pipes due to rapid expansion and banging of cold water pipes due to rapid pressure changes.

think of using a garden hose. water come out the end. when you squeeze the handle (reducing the nozzle size) the water accelerates coming out the end and also pushes your hand backwards. now transfer this hose scenario into a closed pipe. the faster moving water hitting elbows causes shock waves.

With 80 psi street pressure, I would remove/bypass the regulator and see what happens. Something is causing a pressure hiccup, as shown in the YT video of the shower wand and kitchen faucet.

Many thanks again, Bernabeu!

Re: ps. your pr valve is an unbranded POS
That's interesting you said that. The plumber I hired on 11/19 said something similar.
He quoted me $491.69/Replace standard flow rate 3/4" water pressure regulator.5-year parts and labor warranty. I forwarded it to the builder and the builder sent the original plumber to replace with an unbranded one.

The plumber of 11/19 also suggested -> Remove Check valve and Arrestor/Repair 1/2" to 3/4" PEX/CPVC water pipe.2-year parts and labor warranty @$227.40. He said what the original plumber installed on 10/23 as a billable service to me is an old technology from the 90's.


Re: should be the same as the desired set point pressure from the reducing valve
I was wondering why our inspector and the original plumber measured the water pressure from the basement faucet and the water heater's faucet and not from the thermal expansion tank, not to mention both the builder and the plumber told me on 12/18 to not worry about the water pressure and did not even bother to check it at all...

Many thanks again, Packy!

Re: i believe 3/4 pex is inadequate for a water service
Shall I contact the City Inspector? Who has the final say to "force" the builder or the plumber to fix it? Or it might just like Bernabeu stated "It probably 'meets code' BUT you now have a minimally acceptable system.", "This entire issue will 'hinge' on the exact wording of your 'purchase contract'. If it merely specified meeting minimum code you are s/o/l."???

The builder replied on 12/28 that "...the installations all appear to be properly executed and are performing within the manufacturers specs and guidelines. Your home does not show any signs of water damage, leaking pipes or reason to believe there is anything to be worried about...". Shall I contact the PEX manufacturer and seek their help? Thank you!

Many thanks again, Steve.

The city Building Inspections Manager stated on 12/10 "With being a single story the banging I would suspect to be an unsecure water pipe in the wall stud or floor joist. Possibly air in the water line where draining the system and then restoring water using a standard plumbing practice to remove all air from the system may address the issue. If hammer arrestors are installed on all quick closing valves on the system this should correct the banging( water hammer) on the system also."

However, when the builder, the plumber and the inspections manager came over on 12/18, the builder told me to not worry about the noises or water pressure as they were NORMAL. (I sent the builder and the plumber the same videos that I posted on YT.) I asked them if they could drain the system but they said "no need"... They did help shut off the water to the fridge as I told them it clunked sometimes after flushing a toilet.

The builder replied on 12/28 that ..."...it can and may be common to hear some sounds, as your home operates. Materials expand and contract or swell and shrink based on time of year or temperature from air or water in the ductwork or the pipes..., It is of our collective discussions and reviews on site that there is nothing else we can perform that will be of any different result than we have today."

fiona, give us a complete list of all plumbing fixtures in the house.
number of sinks, toilets etc. include outside faucets as well.

Hi Packy,

all plumbing fixtures in the house.

number of sinks-> O->Sink (x4 -> 1 in kitchen, 1 in guest bath and 2 in master bath)
X-> toilets (x2, both have a Brondell Swash bidet toilet seat)
outside faucets-> F-> Ext faucet (x2, 1 on the east and 1 on the west of house)

S-> Master bath/shower -> Shower head and a handheld shower head
S-> Guest bath/bathtub -> Shower head and faucet

W/D-> washer and dryer (x1)
R-> refrigerator (x1)
DW-> dishwasher (x1)

basement -> 1 faucet -> Near the WH
-> 1 main sump pump, 1 water-powered backup sump sump and 1 lift station)-> near the corner of ext faucet
As you can imagine, our bedrooms have a lot of noises from the mechanical/Furnace and sump pumps in the basement

[up.codes]

Many thanks, Packy!

I will try to find out the pipe size on each plumbing fixture.

Have a nice day!

Fiona,

I am not a plumbing professional, I hang out around this forum and seek advice from the pros here who helped me resolved many plumbing issues over the years. I read through the original thread and this thread and can see that you did a lot of stuff already, and I have a few questions and comments.

First, the PEX tubings look very dirty, seems caked with mud. Why is that? Were they dirty like this before they were hung? Or is it not mud but something got smeared on them?

Second, the video showed the hot tubing moved, almost like a recoil. This is very interesting. There must have been quite a bit of pressure change for this to happen, this is not thermal expansion/contraction, there is a pressure change going on abruptly. Was there any fixture being used at the moment the pipe moved any washing machine, shower etc running? Or this was all quiet and just happened?

Third, does the same pipe movement ever happened on the cold water pipe or only the hot side?

Forth, you mentioned this banging noise happened when no water is being consumed, but yet there has to be a trigger, you just haven't figured it out yet. Sometimes water is being consumed in the house but you are not aware, as others have suggested, if you have a toilet flapper in a toilet tank not sealing 100%, it can leak water down to the bowl imperceptively a little at a time, and when water drops in the tank the fill valve in the tank pulls in more water to refill it to the previous level, this could be going on quietly without being noticed. Or possibly the icemaker has a valve that pulls water in for ice making, again going on unnoticed, or may be outside irrigation soaker hose turned on and off with a timer. There has to be a way to figure out the trigger event. Sometimes the effect is delayed. For example, there are times when copper pipes are being strapped tightly to wood studs inside walls, and when after taking a shower, the copper pipe expands with hot water, afterwards the hot water inside the pipe cools, and the cooling off caused contraction that rubbing against the metal straps can create a knocking like sound, and this may happen well after the shower was shut off. So trying to figure out what was the last fixture used when you heard this noise or when you see the pipe moved may give you some clues.

I am not familiar with PEX tubings, in face I am planning a PEX project myself and am learning. I did read many references about crimped fittings vs expansion fittings. You have crimped fittings, and one complaint I heard about them is the fittings are inserted into the tubing, then a crimp ring on the outside. This effectively reduces the inside diameter of the tubing. In expansion fittings the tubing is being cold expanded, and full port fittings are inserted into the expanded fitting to keep the ID unrestricted. Now some said there should be no big difference, but now I wonder if the difference may be significant. In addition, my understanding is most PEX installations have continuous runs with no intermediate joints, so having one or two joints at each end won't make a difference, but this is not your case, you have all kinds of joints along the way, which in my non-professional opinion is not how PEX should be ran.







Now you found these two pipes on top of each other and wondered it this may be the cause of the noise. Have you tried to put something, such as foam, or a sponge or something in between to see if it makes a difference?

In addition, I am not a fan of having the PEX carried all the way to the end where the fixture is, with all kinds of branches and fittings. I would have wanted this section done all in copper to offer some rigidity, and so many fittings here now I wonder if the abundance of the smaller ID PEX fittings having used so many in series may have contributed to the problem.



and this, so if you need to shut off a valve, you have to hold the PEX still and turn the knob with the other hand?



so this is a question for the pros here, can the smaller restrictive PEX crimp fittings, when used in this manner, all over the place, multiple times along a run, have a cumulative restriction that makes an appreciable difference? Her pipes are not really 3/4" anymore. Also, I wonder if it's possible her PEX somewhere is going through a very tight turning radius without support, and created a kinked that the installation plumber didn't see and now the kink is causing a flow restriction, is that possible?

Finally, regarding your builder's two comments.

#1 "...it can and may be common to hear some sounds, as your home operates. Materials expand and contract or swell and shrink based on time of year or temperature from air or water in the ductwork or the pipes..., It is of our collective discussions and reviews on site that there is nothing else we can perform that will be of any different result than we have today." what he seems to be implying is the noises you heard are general noises from the house, framing members, pipes, ducts, walls, expanding and contracting and not specific to water supply pipes. This makes it very important for you to figure out how you can reproduce this on demand. By doing this he will then have to address the problem head on and not being able to brush it off anymore.

"Our water pressures went from 40 PSI (measured by our inspector) to 100 PSI (after the installation of a water hammer arrestor and a spring check valve) to 65 PSI (the plumber set it) to 80 PSI (after the plumber left) to 80 PSI (after the PRV replacement) to 50 PSI (after the Plumber left) to 50 PSI (measured by the city meter tech) in 2 1/2 months. The banging noises happened since we moved into this new construction house last Dec. Essentially, the builder said it could be from the house settling as it's hard to reproduce or duplicate the banging noises which happened randomly. I really don't know what else I should do..." OK this is pure BS from your builder. I am not a plumber but I am a practicing engineer on big structures like highways and bridges, and I know structures. A house build in 2019 settling? OK there are two kinds of settlements, total settlement and differential settlement. Total settlement do occur even on freshly compacted soil, and we are talking about a few millimeters uniformly across the house, slowly. He seems to be suggesting differential settlement, meaning one part of the house is settling unevenly with another part. This will cause noises as the noises are then things shifting out of square, out of level and out of plumb. If this happens your floor will slope, you doors will suddenly close by themselves, or at least start squeeking or jamming, your sheet rock will crack at window corners etc etc etc...is any of this happening? If not then he is BSing, if it is, then he has a much bigger problem on his hands.

Many thanks, Sum!

I really appreciate your time and help. I am very grateful that everyone here is so nice and has tried so hard to help me resolve our plumbing problems. It's so frustrating dealing with the builder who could care less about taking care of customers nor take their time to make things right.   
1. Indeed, the PEX tubings are very dirty and caked with mud! I have no idea why and when it was. I only noticed that when I tried to take photos to post on this forum. We had a very wet year in 2018 and I thought the mud was only external/cosmetic, so I did not ask the builder.

2. The video showed the hot tubing moved was recorded during a wash cycle of the washing machine. The red PEX exhibited the same movement after a six-minute dish wash from the kitchen sink with warm water.

3. No, judging by the video, the cold water pipe does not have the same movement.

4. I forgot to report the result about the toilet fill valve. I put some blue tapes inside the MB toilet tank for several hours and found no drop on waterline. Since the noises happened near the MB wall more often, I did not conduct the same test on the guest bath.

5. Yea, Bernabeu stated "yes, it IS possible to over anchor piping.". The builder said the plumber could remove some of the PEX pipe supports, so that the PEX could expand "better". I told them to do so as long as it could help reduce the banging noises. The banging noise is less frequent but the problem remains unsolved!

6. I put some dry sweeping cloths in between the two pipes. Now the noises happened mainly when the dishwasher or washing machine is on. However, I am not sure if it is because the dry sweeping cloths or the removal of clips.

7. The 11/19 plumber seemed to have the same concern and suggested -> Remove Check valve and Arrestor/Repair 1/2" to 3/4" PEX/CPVC water pipe.2-year parts and labor warranty @$227.40. He said what the original plumber installed on 10/23 as a billable service to me is an old technology from the 90's.

8. I am not quite sure about your question -> if you need to shut off a valve, you have to hold the PEX still and turn the knob with the other hand? I took that pic to show the water hammer arrestor under the kitchen sink and noticed the pipe could be pulled 2" up or down. Packy said it's fine!

9. NO one would stay 1 hour 47 min to hear the banging noises during and after a wash cycle with me. Despite of these videos I have recorded as posted on YT, the builder and plumber told me they were normal. After receipt of the videos for the handheld shower head and kitchen sink faucet on 11/16, the builder actually replied "By code ... will not turn home water pressure above 80. We cannot control that there is a drop in pressure when you use multiple appliances or fixtures at once." Our water pressure went up from 65 PSI on 10/23 to 80 PSI without any reason.

10. We had a crack on the basement wall as per the photo below. The concrete repair worker told me it's very common. The garage door was tilted and the trimer fixed it last June. The backdoor was warped and the builder replaced it last July. We trusted and chose this builder to build our villa house and paid a much higher premium, but unfortunately we did not get the HIGH quality home as the builder claims.



- garage door
- backdoor

fiona, nothing you have shown here approaches a 'high quality' home.

i'm not sure that i have ever seen a home that didn't have a 1 inch water service.

but i am sure i have never seen problems like you have.

why was the garage door installed so poorly and the builder who hired those hacks turns his head in the other direction?

it is time for the builder to man-up to his shortcomings, admit he did a poor job of supervising his sub-contractors and let you hire someone to make the situation 100% correct while he pays the bill.
he is BSing you telling you everything is normal.. IT IS NOT. he is incapable of remedying this so he must pay someone to do what he can't.

good luck, packy..

take your losses

sell and move on

it will be cheaper than the law suit where your attorneys will take 1/3 - assuming you win

next time:

ARCHITECT

PLANS AND SPECIFICATIONS

SURETY BOND ON THE CONTRACTOR

PAYMENT IN STAGES - INSPECTIONS PERFORMED BY ARCHITECT

? EXPENSIVE ?

YES

AS 'PREMIUM' CONSTRUCTION WILL COST MORE THAN MERE CODE COMPLIANCE


eg. pour the slab and start framing after 24 hours = code compliant

pour the slab and let cure for 28 days before framing = best practice

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Many thanks again, Packy!

I feel much better now for two of the builder's contractors actually said I was too picky and gave them a hard time.


Please see the photo below... We paid $2600 for an egg-shell finish upgrade... And that's what we got... It took us till Dec 16, more than a year after the move in to get some areas (yes, not the entire house even though we had these ugly roller marks on every wall.) repainted.

"4. I forgot to report the result about the toilet fill valve. I put some blue tapes inside the MB toilet tank for several hours and found no drop on waterline. Since the noises happened near the MB wall more often, I did not conduct the same test on the guest bath."

when you did the blue tapes inside the toilet tank, did you shut off the valve to the toilet supply? If you didn't, the tape will not do anything, because as the water leaks through, the fill valve will replenish. Make sure you do the test with the toilet supply valve turned off.

"8. I am not quite sure about your question -> if you need to shut off a valve, you have to hold the PEX still and turn the knob with the other hand? I took that pic to show the water hammer arrestor under the kitchen sink and noticed the pipe could be pulled 2" up or down. Packy said it's fine!"

Yes it's fine in terms of whether that may be a source of your banging noises. The PEX piping just stick out of your cabinet floor loose like that with the valve on top. What I meant was, if you have to shut the valve off, when you go turn that knob, the pipe itself probably moves too, which means you have to steady the pipe with one hand while turning the knob with the other hand. If it's copper piping which is always rigid and secured you can turn valves off with one hand. This is not related to your noises, but just an observation that even if I use PEX I will not terminate with PEX in such a loose manner. Actually I wonder if you run your dishwasher when it starts and finishes filling, does that loose pipe inside the cabinet move too?

"9. NO one would stay 1 hour 47 min to hear the banging noises during and after a wash cycle with me. Despite of these videos I have recorded as posted on YT, the builder and plumber told me they were normal. After receipt of the videos for the handheld shower head and kitchen sink faucet on 11/16, the builder actually replied "By code ... will not turn home water pressure above 80. We cannot control that there is a drop in pressure when you use multiple appliances or fixtures at once." Our water pressure went up from 65 PSI on 10/23 to 80 PSI without any reason."

Does it mean you can reproduce the banging noises on demand, by starting a wash cycle and wait 1 hour 47 minutes?

Do you hear noises if you do not use your washing machine?

Just curious, what kind of hoses are you using to connect your stop valves to the fixtures? In other words, the hoses from the washing machine valves to the washer, the hose to go from the toilet valve to the bottom of the tank's fill valve connection etc etc etc? Are those "flood safe" lines? I have heard some of those lines have big restrictions in them for them to work, and may further restrict your line and amplify a hammer action.

Many thanks, Bernabeu!

I was to talk to the builder and its agent about a possible trade in but decided not to do so. I don't think I would have the patience or confidence to build another house with this same builder. As for the "sell and move on", I don't think it's "fair" to sell our house to other people in the current situation. As you can tell, I have spent way too much time trying to resolve this plumbing issue without luck/success, not the mention the previous warranty items, the repaint and bad doors. There are also other LOUD noises from the air ducts and the furnace's airflow in our house. What a hard lesson to learn!

an even harder lesson:

if YOU have a house built to YOUR specifications and YOUR plans (regardless of the plans' actual source) then YOU ARE THE BUILDER and in TOTAL control

you merely purchased a 'spec' home with bull effluent 'customization(s)' from some cheapo cookie cutter plans


your purchase is probably IDENTICAL (issues and all) to the other McMansions in the neighborhood


HOWEVER


this is the quality level to which society has been acclimated - as the 'vert goes: NEVER STOP IMPROVING


you now need to fix all the 'little issues' as you go (reset doors, adj cabinets, etc) AND plan on a proper and EXPENSIVE and disruptive repipe


BUT


there is ONE 'hail mary' you can try: new QUALITY PRV and REMOVE the 'spring check' after the main supply valve and PRV, it serves no purpose


CAVEAT EMPTOR


(i am out of this thread)

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Many thanks again, Sum!

4. Yes, when I put the blue tapes inside the toilet tank, I shut off the valve to the toilet supply.

8. Thanks for the reminder. I will run the dishwasher later and see if that loose pipe moves.

9. A: Does it mean you can reproduce the banging noises on demand, by starting a wash cycle and wait 1 hour 47 minutes? -> Yes. The noises usually happened during the last wash cycle (approx 1 hr after the wash cycle started) and the rinse cycles. It also happened during a 2 hr 19 min light wash cycle from the dishwasher. I just uploaded a sound video of the 4 banging noises recorded on 12/22/20. [www.youtube.com]

B: Do you hear noises if you do not use your washing machine? -> Yes, sometimes the noises would continue intermittently for another hour or so.

Just curious, what kind of hoses are you using to connect your stop valves to the fixtures? -> I have no idea. Please refer to the photos below.

- Washing machine
- Toiled

Once again, thank you very much for your time and help! Have a nice day!

Many thanks for your time and help, Bernabeu.

Once again, I cannot thank you and everyone enough for spending your precious time, trying to resolve our plumbing system problem. I am planning to hire a master plumber after the whole house plumbing inspection tomorrow. I really hope this plumbing ordeal would end soon.

Have a nice day and a Happy, Healthy and Prosperous New Year!!!

WOW< WOW< WOW...
they call this a "PREMIUM" upgrade.
a cheap 15 cent plastic flange/escutcheon to cover the hole in the floor and white pex exposed with a copper crimp ring right there for everyone to see.

my (expletive deleted) word.

i'm sorry fiona but on my worst day i would not do anything like that.
don't get me wrong. the connection is leak proof and will last just as long. BUT, BUT, BUT there is no cheaper way of making this exposed connection.
a premium upgrade would mean all chrome metal showing.

this is a thru the wall connection but a thru the floor would look the same. first class, not cheapest way out crap.

Hi Packy,
Welcome to Missouri! I talked to two diff plumbers who said that's how they would install the PEXs here -> 3/4" for water service and 1/2" for the others...

Hi Sum,
8. Thanks for the reminder. I will run the dishwasher later and see if that loose pipe moves. -> No, the pipe does not move.

Hi Bernabeu, (Not sure if you could see this as you stated "(i am out of this thread)" )
The plumber removed the water hammer arrestor and the spring check valve and put a Watts PRV on Tue. I loosened most of the clamps. So far, I have not heard any loud banging noises.

Once again, many thanks to everyone for your time and help!!!

Have a nice weekend!

Thanks for posting back and hopefully your problem is resolved. That last picture really confused me until I blew it up. At that photo angle, the hose bib looks like it's connected directly to the PRV outlet.

When I moved to our farmhouse, l renovated the garage there. But I faced a lot of plumbing problems that were very terrible. I tried to fix it. But I failed. The garage was built 35 years ago. Finally, I replumbed the whole building with the help of a plumbing repair service. That was a terrible experience I faced with plumbing.



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