Our home was built 1981 on concrete slab. Recently we started renovations on our master bathroom but moving plumbing around on home built on concrete has been quite a chore.

Anyways, I want to remove and replacement flange with PVC and ideally move it about 2 inches to the right (like use an offset) so it wont be so close to the new shower stall. I have had hell of time trying to get the toilet flange off though. It is a cast iron flange but it seems cemented into the ground? I don't see bolts either.

Attached pictures for reference. Any help on how I can get this flange removed would be much appreciated it. Thank you.







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link for picture not working

Ahh sorry, finally figured it out!

Hammer and chisel.

Where exactly do I need to hammer and chisel?

it's probably leaded to the cast iron pipe.

if you have enough pipe to work with you can on the vertical install a couple of 22's to offset the pipe over a few inches. Use a shielded coupling to adapt from CI to Pl. the flange sits atop finished floor so you may just want a pipe wild through the floor now and cut and install flange later. Center of toilet to finished wall needs minimum 15".

Reminds me of my days as an apprentice in commercial plumbing going around correcting the location of drains. The concrete demo is step one. Don't forget your eye protection. All pipe in contact with concrete needs foam wrap.

Whoever does concrete pour back ask them if they have a level and know what level means? lol



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The pipe appears to be 3 inches below the flange. This is good.
Just take a plain old 16 OZ hammer and from the inside bash the flange to pieces.
you won't hurt the pipe as it is lower.
there is lead between the pipe and the flange and when enough of the flange has been eliminated the lead will pull upward releasing the remnants of the flange.
in fact you may not need to remove all the flange and lead, just enough to be able to push this offset ,insert flange into place.
you won't get the distance you were looking for but you will gain about 1 1/2 inches. maybe a little more.
when i use this type flange, i clean the inside of the pipe reasonably clean and lather up the rubber ribs with bowl wax to help the seal.

Thank you NP16 and packy.

That was very helpful and I think i know how to continue from here.

Im a first time home owner and we had to begin renovations due to the amount of mold we found in the master bathroom. We have a new born and I was worried about my families health. Nothing has been easy though because the entire condo is concrete. Concrete slab, cinder block walls and ceiling. I’ve been trying to do much as possible by myself without due to cost and with our baby and another on the way we are tight on money. So thank you for all your help.

That adapter insert do you happen to know what it’s called so i can order it online?



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check your measurements carefully to make sure it will fit.
by eye it looks like it will work.
it is called...
4" Inside Push Tite Offset Closet Flange w/ Stainless Steel Ring

You sir are a scholar and a saint. Finally got it off!!! Thank you 100 times.

Yes and the drain is 4 in diameter. So 4 to 3 in adapter right?

After all the different tools i bought and used at the end of the day... what did the job was a hammer...







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there is no adapter.
the flange i pictured and the name of it i posted is what you want.
the measurement you need to check is the up and down measure.
when the rubber is fully inserted, the stainless ring must set down on top of the finish floor.
it is OK to push it deeper into the cast iron pipe but we can not have part of the rubber sticking out.

BTW, who keeps count... but i have removed maybe 100 or more cast iron flanges in my days and never used anything but a hammer. (occasionally need a chisel)

offset closet flanges can be problematic you need 15 inches from the center of the toilet to a wall in otherwords a toilet should have a 30 inch minimum wall

The Gospel:

A Standard Floor Flange for a Standard Toilet is EXACTLY 12" center of flange to finished wall (face of paint / wallpaper / tile, etc BUT not to face of any baseboard)


MOST toilets are 12" roughing dimension

BUT

There are 'some' (usually not in stock) which are 10" or 14"

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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