I was trying to remove a cast iron drain tub basket where the cross bars have rotted out.

I tried two versions of those internal wrench and didn't work.

Finally, I used a hacksaw to score three small slits inside, just to allow the internal wrench to have a better bite. I turned the socket wrench and yes, the basket was turning with it!!!



Then I realized what was turning was just the top portion. The top flange was completely twisted off!





I then used a flat head screwdriver to pry the thread piece left inside and was able to break off some of it.



I think what I am seeing now is the black gasket. The top flange is off, the section below is still there, with the portion above the gasket also broken off.

Now I can't get the lower portion out. Any ideas?



Never imagined they will come off in different pieces.

Time for a new waste and overflow.

I am trying to avoid opening the 8" thick exterior block wall on the other side.

If you're going to mess with an old waste & overflow you should be prepared to replace the entire unit. Minor cosmetic repairs are fraught with peril.

sum.....another visit from Mr. Murphy?

you're gonna have to pick out the remaining male threads slowly and carefully.
clean up the threads in the shoe and install another flange.
i've had good luck replacing the rubber gasket under the tub which is pretty important to getting a good seal.
the threads don't make any seal they just keep it together.
100% silicone under the flange with some on the gasket below and tighten away.
one of these is available if you can't locate the correct flange.

Packy I think I am going to try to see if I can pick out the remaining male threads below the gasket. The problem is the gasket is in the way of me doing so. I don't dare cut into the gasket or put too much pressure on it as I think it is very difficult to insert a gasket from above. I am also worried that too much pushing prying may end up causing the drain shoe to move or even drop which will be a point of no return.

At this point if it comes to the point that I must replace the drain below, then I am going to cut up the cast iron tub and remove it in order to get to it.

yes Paul, Murphy is my neighbor LOL!!!

is there any up and down movement with the shoe ?
only need about 1/4-3/8 inch movement.
then the rubber can be removed/destroyed and a new rubber gasket can be coaxed into place.

the WORD, as per packy, who is 99.9999% correct 99.9999% of the time

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Packy no up and down movement at the shoe, but then again, I have been very careful to avoid nudging down on the shoe at all so may be movement is possible with some encouragement.

OK after some elbow grease I removed all the remnants of the old drain basket.







The only thing is I think I was too aggressive when I made the vertical cuts and I sliced into the female threads. I can see the cuts clearly in two spots.





Is the shoe still usable - can it still receive a new drain basket, or have I gone too far?



Edited 1 times.

can't really tell until you try to screw in a new flange.
remember the seal comes from the gasket below the tub and the silicone under the flange.
if the new flange screws down well, try to get some silicone caulk above and below that gasket.
even a tiny bit will help.

I will try to thread one in tomorrow and see, however if I turn it too tight, will the force break open the drain shoe at the cuts I made?

How thick are these brass drain shoes?

the drain shoe threads are straight/running threads.
a threaded plumbing fitting has tapered threads.
when you overtighten a cast brass plumbing fitting there is a real possibility of splitting it.
never can happen with the tub shoe.
anyway, debris in the threads (male or female) will make it much harder to turn.
a couple of small slits in soft brass should not bother you.
been there-done that.

sum,

your sweating is over

clean up the threads with a brass 'toothbrush' (NOT a steel type)

use some anti-seize compound

replace the gasket

? are you done yet ?


on a serious note: i admire your attention to detail

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

bernabeu, I am not done yet. I have not had a chance to work on the tub, this week has been heavy rain non-stop for many days and I had to deal with a roof leak elsewhere. I hope to get back to the tub soon.

I do have a copper wire toothbrush I can use to clean up the threads, I might even chuck the toothbrush into my drill to give an industrial strength cleaning.

Are you sure I can use anti seize on the tub drain? Will that help me the next time I need to remove the drain basket if the cross bars of the new one rotted out again?

absolutely, positively, yes - use never seize on the running threads into which the 'top part' threads

said threads merely are for 'hold together' compression of the gasket seal

so

unless you sawed COMPLETELY through the 'body' there will be no leak


use the brush by hand as it is merely enough to clean the threads for 'hand threading' since they do NOT seal and the never seize will be of GREAT help




ps. you ARE actually done with the removal of the frozen part(s)

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Thanks again, I will put on some anti seize.

One thing puzzles me. I put in the new tub drain basket in 2016 (the one I just removed). I put putty under the flange, not the threads. I am absolutely sure of that. But when I removed this basket and picked off the pieces from the drain shoe, I felt hardened putty on the threads.

How can that be? The only explanation I can come up with is the putty under the flange, as I tighten the basket into the shoe, the putty is compressed and some of it was squeezed into the threads as the basket threaded into the shoe. Guess there is no way to avoid that whether I use traditional putty or silicone, some of it will find it's way into the threads.

yep

it gets squished down

the neva seez will solve all

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638