I have an old cast iron sink and the drain basket at the tub where the cross guards have rotted out.







If you look at the last picture above I have a bit of a "bump" left on one side. Do you think that small bump has any chance to offer resistance for a standard tool that uses the cross guards to loosen it or it will just break away?

Worth it to buy an internal wrench to loosen it by friction?

I know they sell a drain basket that is slightly smaller that you epoxy over the old one, but that is more a last option because those will create a higher lip for the drain and a bit of water will always be around the drain perimeter which accelerates the corrosion of the tub.

This is not going to be fun to remove (if it can be done).

Finally, this is what the drain looks like in April of 2019. The cross bars were there when I cleaned the hair out.



This tenant was there for 1 year, and I know they used Draino Max Gel (I found a bottle under the sink). Any chance the Draino ate the cross bars?

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store sku:

SKU #1004870668



Edited 1 times.

No Hub, I have one of those and was never able to get that to work. It doesn't bite well into the drain. If I tap too hard it might damage the tub enamel itself.

I was asking if it is worth a try to get one like Ridgid 13405.

I have also seen one that looks like an C clamp but expands.

Sum,

the trick is NOT to use a ratchet but a 'cross t' drive and lean DOWN while turning



center the 'easy out tool' (with short extension if necessary), tap it to get it 'started' lean down as hard as possible while turning WITH BOTH HANDS so the reverse threads of the tool 'catch'

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I hope Your using an impact wrench and not a simple drill,if it still don't move it's time for a Dremel & a Tiny chisel like we did it in olden times.

I used this one and it failed.



Used an impact driver with a socket adapter, used a hex wrench over it and a longer lever, leaning in, no go.

I am debating if I should buy one of these below, not knowing if they will even do a better job.







or should I use a dremel to make a notch on the top flange surface and a chisel/hammer to "drift" it loose counterclockwise?

I have the last tool you pictured and have had limited success.

Take the Dremel with cut off wheel, stick it inside tub shoe and starting making horizontal cuts that are below the edge of the tub, keep making cuts as you come closer to the tub bottom until you hit the rubber gasket(which is on the bottom of the tub).

At this point cut all the way around thru the brass shoe into the rubber gasket and the top of the tub shoe will come off. Go slow and be careful.

Worked for me many a times and never damaged the tub.

Hope my explanation makes sense.

Curly, just to be clear, your method is to do test cuts to find where the gasket is which forms a gap between the bottom of the tub and the top of the drain shoe, and in that gap the dremel will not be cutting into the female threads of the drain shoe, correct?

how do you know you are cutting into the gasket? Is it entirely by feel that you have cut through the drain basket but then it gives? My concern is as I cut through the drain basket which is tight against the drain shoe, once I am through will I feel it or will it just continue on cutting into the drain shoe and I may still be thinking it's a thicker metal?

Also is the gasket replaceable? I think one time I tried to take it out and it was thick and solid and it will not come out of the tub drain hole. I was going to replace it but ended up leaving the old piece in. If I chew it all up with the dremel will I be able to insert a new piece?

Hi Sum,

If you do it the way I suggested you will need to replace the entire tub waste and overflow. You will be damaging the threads in the tub shoe with the test cuts.

I should have stated this in the original post. Sorry about that.

Based on the style of tub waste and overflow currently installed you are generally suppose to have access to it from the back side so that it can be replaced.

I may have misunderstood and thought you where going to replace entire tub waste and overflow.

When you hit the rubber gasket you'll get smoke and bits of black rubber gasket thrown out.

Sorry about the confusion.

Curly, thanks for the explanations.

I had previously replaced the tub drain basket. Last time I was able to remove it (may be four years ago) by using a flat head screwdriver and a hammer lightly tap the inside edge repeatedly to drift the drain loose. I then removed the old connection to the overflow and put in a lift and turn. Now four years later the lift and turn cross bars are corroded away - I knew the tenants used Draino and had repeatedly warned them not to.

In this case I am trying to unscrew the lift and turn and put in a new one. The wall is an exterior concrete wall so difficult to access.