Hello!

After searching everywhere, and ordering 3 parts that don't work, I've decided to ask for some help.

I have a laundry room sink faucet that I believe is 3/4 garden hose thread with a male end. I've been trying to find a converter to 55/64 (I think?) so I can connect a standard diverter for use with a hose sprayer or similar. I cannot find this part anywhere!?

Can anyone steer me in the right direction?

Here are some photos of my setup:


[www.dropbox.com]
[www.dropbox.com]
[www.dropbox.com]

For the diverter, I am just looking to add something like this in whatever size configuration I can make work:
[www.amazon.com]

Thank you for any help!!

jh

If you want to use a standard shower type spray hose, they use a 1/2" straight pipe thread. That is what the valve in your link has. You would just need a garden female to 1/2" pipe adapter and the valve in your link.

as my friend from the golden state said.

1/2 inch male iron pipe size x 3/4 inch female hose thread adapter will do it.

[www.plumbingsupply.com]

as Packy stated:



==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

WOW... it is only april 15th and you and i have agreed on something.
last year it was nov 4th when we had a meeting of the minds.
hahaha.. just kidding.
stay safe my friend.

Thank you all for such quick and helpful feedback!

I was able to view the link to plumbingsupply.com and locate the 3/4 Female Garden Hose Fittings.

I got one more question now for you.

My goal here is to take this simple sink faucet and connect something to it that will allow me to have a separate valve that will control an aux hose which we use to fill a nearby water filter. The diverter I included in my initial post was how I can figured I could accomplish this, but I'm open to suggestions if there is a better way.

I'm also open to replacing this funky faucet but the only thing close to it I could find were "commercial" faucets and I'm not positive they will work. The distance between those two garden style valves coming from the wall is 8.25" from the center, but I'm not certain the standard way to measure those is (inside, outside, center, etc..)

Thanks again! I should have just started here to begin with



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You can put a valve like this between the cold water clothes washer hose and the existing valve. Attach the washer hose to one port and an adapter fitting to the other port that matches your new hose(if it's not garden thread).

one word of advice.
if you use that "Y" connector that steve showed, make sure to shut the water off at the faucet after each use.
i don't like the rather inexpensive faucet that is there and leaving it under full pressure 24/7 would not be a good idea. the "O" ring in the bottom of the spout is not designed for that.
you have a hot and cold hose connection just behind the faucet.
you could "Y" off one of those for cold only.
at the same time i would change the washing machine hoses to solid brass ended stainless braided hoses.

O - M - G

we agree AGAIN

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

My intent was for the faucet to be taken out of the equation and use the tee valve behind it for supplying the clothes washer and water filter.

Thanks, I got it. I had actually considered that (Y connection under feeding laundry) as a simple option as well to accomplish the same. The only (minor) issue with that is the cold is on the right and the filter on the left but I suppose that's not a huge problem.

It seems unanimous that this is a crappy faucet. Would replacing it be a challenge based on this setup? It looks like it was manually put together.

Appreciate the tip on the washer connectors.

Get a picture close to the wall where that faucet connects to what ever it connects to.
also get us the center to center measure between the hot and cold stubouts.
wall mounted faucets are pretty common items and i'm sure that with some brass nipples, brass or stainless tees and a new faucet you could make that into anything you want.
i'm guessing the only skills needed for this knowledge of which direction to wrap teflon tape onto the nipples and which direction to turn things to make the tight enough so as not to leak.

It is NOT a crappy faucet.

It is an 'antique' but fully serviceable excellent faucet (setup).

The top 'T' handles (perhaps on 2 way hose bibs, perhaps on the faucet itself) control both the supply to the washer AND the front mounted faucet spout valves.

'T' handles may be left ON for washer with the faucet itself OFF.

The 'y' adapter will do what you want with the faucet spout left OFF and unpressurized.

Put the 'y' adapter where the washer hose connects and the hose to hose adapter on one side with the washer hose on the other.


SOMTIMES the old stuff actually makes sense - you have a COMBINATION washer supply and utility sink faucet, whether factory made or jury rigged would require better photos.

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



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Okay, I take the crappy comment back, it does do its job, fair enough.

Here are some more photos. I measure 8.25" center to center. I had mentioned this above as well, not knowing if center to center is correct. Most I have found are 8" on center, is that actually what I need even though my measurements are bigger?

The washer connections are pre-faucet assembly so I don't think any faucet switch will impact that.

Here are some more photos:

[www.dropbox.com]
[www.dropbox.com]
[www.dropbox.com]
[www.dropbox.com]
[www.dropbox.com]

Thanks again for all the help!

Jesse

that is quite a set-up.
i have never seen one like it before today.
so now just clarify exactly what you want to do so we can help.
a new faucet will fit nicely as long as you get one with offset connections.
or you can keep that one and use "Y" connector for your filter.
here is a faucet with offset connections. you screw them onto the 8 1/4 stubouts and rotate them until you get the desired 8 inch spread.
notice the connections at the wall are offset.
if you screw them onto 8 1/4 Center to center stubouts and tilt the tops inward 1/4 inch on each side, you have 8 inch C to C.
this faucet is just one example. there are many out to choose from if you want to replace your.

Thank you! This is what I was getting at with the "crappy" comment. That is a nice faucet. Really appreciate all the help. I think if I combine this with the Y style component at the cold water laundry connection I'll be in business.

Thanks again! Until my next plumbing "emergency"

Packy, that was a standard laundry hook-up in CA in the 40s-60s. The side port of the tee valves often times could switched left or right by swapping the thread adapter and included plug that's installed on the opposite side. These ones don't have that ability.

Hey all,

I just went to order up a Y connector and something came to mind.

In an earlier response someone mentioned the O ring in the faucet not being designed to hold back constant water pressure. That makes sense. Given such, I'm curious if there is any similar concern with the Y connector if I tap it into the direct line also serving the washing machine? Is there a certain type of Y connector I'll want to make sure it can effectively hold the water pressure 24/7? I don't plan on turning off the main valve. I may not have anything on the end of the water filter setup hose so I figured I'd ask before taking this simple solution.

If you get a brass wye, I say there's no issue. The plastic wyes are pretty janky.

i'll answer your concern with a picture
this is how dishwasher supplies are hooked up now-a-days.
simple hose connection concealed and under pressure 24/7.


with a washing machine at least the hoses are visible (most of the time) and there is a shut off that some people shut after each use.
with a dishwasher, 100% are concealed and never shut off.

@ Author: jslost (CA),


the measurement is center - center

from your pics you have an 8" 'spread' faucet

you can replace the faucet anytime with the model of your choice (most include the offsets for levelling)



IMO: keep the valve set-up at all costs - while i have never seen said assembly before it is PERFECT for an exposed laundry AND readily serviceable with 'off the shelf' parts

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Got it, thanks everyone. Will follow up once I get it swapped out and see how ya'll like.

I hope everyone is safe and sound.



Edited 1 times.

It worked. Honestly, kind of embarassed I had to take your time with this one, I was over thinking it!

Rocket science done best!

Thanks for the tips, and I know, still need to swap out those washer lines.

[www.dropbox.com]

Cheers



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