Hello all

This is my first post, but I've been reading here for awhile and appreciate all the great insight. As an apprentice plumber, I often have questions outside of the scope of work I'm exposed to and it's nice to have a place to find some answers. I've never done any commercial work and was really curious about how urinals connect to their drain. I've seen the threaded flanges with the rubber gaskets and have a general idea, but can't quite seem to piece the rest together. A guy in my code class said that in MA the urinal can only be a lead and oakum caulked joint, but in section 10.06 of the MA plumbing codebook it states:

(r)
Urinal Wastes. Urinal waste branches and urinal fixture wastes shall conform to the following:
1. They shall be made of:
a.
extra heavy or service weight cast iron soil pipe and fittings with caulked joints
b.
threaded cast iron pipe with cast iron drainage fittings; or
c.
iron size copper or brass pipe with cast brass drainage fittings

Which seems to suggest that you can use more than just lead and oakum. I'm just a little confused with the contradiction and if anybody could shed some light for me, I would be most appreciative. Thanks and I hope you're all having a great day.

The lead and oakum is used for the Cast Iron Hub pipe and fittings. The threaded brass flange is installed when you set the urinal for finish product. Use Brass nipples and place the Rubber properly before you set the urinal. Also be sure you have backing to support the weight of the fixture



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You can use any of serveral methods to install the drain line TO THE WALL where the urinal will connect. At that point you will need some method to terminate in a 2" male thread to screw the urinal's mounting bracket on. You then place the rubber gasket on the bracket, hang the urinal on the wall against it, and then install the two brass studs with nuts and washers to secure the urinal.

Having the product literature is helpful. It has a good drawing on where to install the 2" male adapter above finished floor to get the desired height (ADA vs. standard height)

careful thought must be taken for the 3/4" copper pipe from the wall. The product info for the flushometer should tell you where that goes. Keep in mind there is a 6" vacuum breaker. Critical that this water piping is very securely installed. Flushometers are heavy and drunk people can be hard on this valve.

for me the trickiest part is hitting with precision the location of the 2" male adapter so that when the brass flange with 2" female threads is installed it will be at the correct location. The urinal horn to gasket to flange connection needs to be tight and leak free for obvious reasons.



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You need to have both the urinal and the flush valve selected before you even begin your rough in. Using your cut sheets in both of these, you’ll need to plan out your installation. Usually, as posted above, you’ll start with your drain elevation and center. Work the rest of your measurements accordingly and install plenty of backers for the urinal installation. Use an earred ell for the flush valve and secure it to a backer.