Leak from shower head. I have read the other threads on Repcals. Sadly the photos in the most relevant are gone. I just want to double-check before I proceed to use the knob to unscrew the stem. I do not see any other hex shape farther inside the wall before the mixer. The extra projecting rod is from the knob removal tool which just happened to fit in the screw hole just the right size to thread in there. Deal with that later.

Assuming I've got the procedure right and I get the stem out, if the seat looks okay and the washer is just worn rather than destroyed, I can replace the washer and be good to go? Should I put new packing in as a matter of course? Incidentally the packing looks metalic? Thank you for any help!

Photos:

[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]
[ibb.co]

yeah, use the knob to unscrew the stem. keep unscrewing and it will come out.
the packing will give some resistance for removing it but it will come out.
the packing looks good so no need to replace it.
as for the seat.
if you need to replace it, you will have to take it out and get an EXACT replacement.
they do make a seat dressing tool which in most cases will work fine.
get a little tin of silicone grease and lather everything up as you put it back together. (especially the handle end of the stem)
yeah, grease it all. the packing, the hex nut even the trim ring and handle screw.
seat dressing tool.

Most of them do NOT have a removable seat, and you need a very good dressing tool to restore the seat.

So, not the same brand as my knob remover then?

Thanks for the info, both of you!



Edited 1 times.

way to tell if the seat is removable.

if the opening in the center is square or hex, it is removable.

if it is a round opening, it is permanent.

so, quick quiz for Dare-1?

is this seat removable or not ?

answer in 1000 words or less

as it is threaded it is DESIGNED to be removable / replaceable

however

in practice

it may NOT be removable by a DIYer with 'big box store' tools


'proper' tools:





if seat drive becomes stripped:



available: [www.plumbingsupply.com]

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Some Repcal do not use a replaceable seat but others used one of two threaded seats and yet others had a pressed in seat. If you do not see a hex or square opening look for screwdriver slots on the sides of a round opening. If your valve does not have replaceable seats the easiest way to check for problems is to slide the blade of a screwdriver along the seat. It is easier to feel roughness than to see it. The Lasco numbers for the seats I mentioned are x-10, X-202 and X-19. Those are the numbers for bulk seats, for carded replace the "X" with "SB" (as I recall).

Actually, you can usually tell the condition of the seat by looking at the washer. If it is rough or worn through to the metal it is shot.



Edited 1 times.

The washer was deteriorated but not cut through to the metal. The seat had a hexagonal shape around a round hole inside it but it didn't feel rough to a screw driver so with the agreement of the guy at the plumbing supply I am taking my chances. Now that I know how to proceed a re-do won't be traumatic if it proves to be the wrong guess in a few months. Closed valve stopped the leak. Any tricks to getting the packing pushed in far enough for the packing nut to thread?

How do you get silicone grease off your hands? My hands are so slick I'm in danger of flinging things across the room inadvertently.

Thanks again for the help!

even if you distort the graphite packing getting it back in, when the packing nut goes against it, it will press it back into shape.
obviously you don't want it to look like the Matterhorn but a little unevenness won't matter.

Everything went together fine except that the pipe protrudes too much. I must have kept screwing the wall plate/escutcheon too much or something, and it doesn't feel like it's going to be easy to push the pipe back into the wall for some reason.

Also the screw hole was stripped a bit by the knob removing tool, or I need to keep working to find the right fit, as I can't get the screw to bite.

Were these old knobs really soft? I now notice some bending to the knob and I wonder if that happened in this operation. I don't remember it being out of kilter before but I might not have noticed.

sounds like you've got a couple of little problems that were I there I could fix in a couple of minutes.
but I'm 3000 miles away.
I'm not sure I understand "the pipe sticks out too far" so I can't advise.
as for the threaded hole for the screw being stripped. I carry a few different taps to chase the threads which repairs the damage.
so you can take the screw to a hardware store to figure out what size it is and get a tap to chase the threads.
[www.homedepot.com]
this is what you are looking for to .. but it's gotta be the right size.

Yes I will look into a tap, but I think it's stripped out in the outer part. I can thread the screw in with the knob off, but once the knob is on the screw doesn't really catch the threads. Perhaps I can find something with the same TPI that works.

Here's the sticking out too far illustration, oops:

[ibb.co]

That also shows that the knob is bent, which I fear may have happened when using the knob-puller.

Thanks again!

it looks to me that the knob just isn't sliding down over the stem.
this would cause the screw not to engage because the screw will not reach the stem.
I don't believe the knob is distorted but rather there is corrosion inside it.
clean out the grooves in the stem and in the knob, put a little grease and use a longer screw to pull the knob onto the stem.
make sure to line it up straight and once the longer screw (hopefully) engages and pulls the knob on, remove the long screw and use the original screw to complete the task.