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Hi have a Burnham Gas boiler series 2a pilot light goes on but burners won’t so far changed gas valve ,thermo pilot, roll out switch ,damper and still not working thermostat works has electricity going thru breaking our heads here what could it be

Well, the first thing before you started changing things would have been to diagnose the REAL problem and fix it. We would probably have to be there and do our own tests to diagnose it.

I had someone come in and check it said it was the valve

First thing would been to bypass the thermostat which is Probably your problem.

Did that burners did not turn on

The manual is available on line. Follow the sequence of operation from one component to the next(electrically), and you will find the problem. As others have said, that is the proper way to troubleshoot the problem. If you brought someone in with enough knowledge to be able to say the gas valve was bad, why didn't they change it? I don't understand how you know all these components that could be causing your problem, and haven't done a search on "How to Troubleshoot a Boiler".



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I have the manual just can’t figure what is the problem have checked the electricity I’m thinking it could be the boiler control center
FYI our water heater is working fine

did you take an electric tester and check that the transformer is sending out 24V ?

from the transformer you follow the wires to the damper to see if the damper is opening. then follow to the spill and/or rollout switch. you are looking for 24 V. I believe from there the 24V goes to the gas valve and tells it to open. the pilot thermocouple also sends a signal to the gas valve telling it the pilot is on.
then the gas valve opens which sends gas to the burner.

I read an educate myself and i myself went and bought the gas valve and had items changed out so where the other parts. I’m no expert and this is why i asked the question here ,thanks for your response hopefully someone else could help me

Follow the sequence of operation. You are essentially going through a series of switches in order. Do you know how to use a volt meter? [www.manualslib.com]



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Yes i know how to use a volt meter working on checking it now sequence of operations

I checked and I bypassed the block vent switch and the burners turned on and the gas came on everything else was 24v checked out. Do i need to replace that piece? FYI I’m not an expert but handy and follow instructions well and read to educate myself i really appreciate your help on this

you MUST ensure that the vent is NOT in fact blocked BEFORE you bypass or 'work on' the 'block vent' switch

else

death from CO poisoning may occur to occupants

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

My friend is correct. The switch is there to ensure the damper has opened. It's is deadly if the boiler fires with the damper closed. The stakes are too high for me, or anyone else to try and walk you through this problem. Please call a pro to help you with this.

the Damper was working it’s new and now the gas is off and we have carbon monoxide alarms/ fire alarms in the home and near the boiler in basement

The. Oiler is off no gas is on not even the pilot

Did you push the reset on the blocked vent switch?

thank you just called the licensed plumber everything is off so no carbon monoxide leaks he will be here in the morning to change the switch and check there is no clogs in the vent

I applaud you for taking the time to learn your system. That will never let you down. If something silly happens to the boiler in a blizzard, chances are you'll be able to get it running to keep the house from freezing solid. Stay positive….it's not Thanksgiving Day or Christmas Eve. That's when the "you know what" usually hits the fan. Best Wishes

Thank you for your help

Thank you for your help really appreciate it



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If the “blocked vent switch” is the vacuum switch thing that spins up prior to ignition and ensures the negative pressure up the chimney, then I think there’s usually a little pressure tube that can get dirty/blocked right? Kinda like the one that detects the load on a washer...

palm, I believe there are 2 on this boiler.
both are heat sensitive.
one is clipped to the draft hood and one is down where the combustion air enters the chamber.

I'm relying on memory for this info and you know how reliable that can be.

I think you're right packy. They are both essentially roll out switches.

Interesting thanks for that info. I don’t have much experience with the boilers, I’ve mostly seen the forced air furnaces. Either way the troubleshooting of all those sensors should be pretty straightforward. Personally I would never bypass one and walk away from the unit... I would only feel comfortable doing that during troubleshooting and observation... just too dangerous I feel.

I don't know, palm..

one of the so called safeties is a vent damper. it is meant to close when the burner is off. this saves energy as the natural draft can not pull heat from the unit.
locking it open so it can be bypassed will do no harm.

the other safeties we are talking about are switches that will stop the boiler if either of them sense an overheat situation caused by a blocked flue.

really !! when was the last time you saw a gas chimney flue block up ?

I have seen a few oil burner problems but never seen a gas flue block.

Possibly no chimney cap and something fell in from the top....raccoon got stuck trying to get warm maybe....agree it's extremely unlikely but worth checking.

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Not a plumber by trade but a fierce DIYer