I have a existing washer box w/ 2" standpipe going straight down thru the floor
to a bend in unheated crawl space. Then horiz to a inline trap and into an
el then down into the dirt and off to sewer.
Stupid me, trap freezes in winter lol.

So I need to cut pipe in wall, install trap,san tee w vent and el down thru floor.

Horizontal measure of a 2" trap,san tee, and el glued tight to ea other is 16" o.c.
offset distance from center trap inlet to center elbow.

Problem... below floor I have an obstruction 6" horiz from center of existing vertical.
So I can't offset 16" and drop thru floor.

So I need to offset 10" to the left from washer box w a couple 45's then drop into inlet of trap.

Then the outlet of trap can go into san tee w/ studer vent and into el going down
thru floor to crawl space 6" to the right of existing pipe.

...does that make any sense?

I orig posted as reply to old post about washer drain but didn't know how old
it was or if it would ever show up in recent posts so apologies if it double
posted,.
thanks, marko
will try to post sketch
[i.postimg.cc]



Edited 3 times.

why can't you pipe the drain like this and offset the standpipe ? (this shows a straight standpipe)
why have a san tee and an ell facing down?

I thought I needed 4" horiz min between cl trap outlet to cl down pipe
didn't know I could drop right into tee

Also when it says trap max 12" above floor, does that mean weir?

Also the vent has to be higher than standpipe by how much?
Looks like I have an elec box around there will have to avoid



will obviously be a lot bigger hole in wall than I had hoped LOL

edit
just checked under the floor and no obstructions that direction whew



while examining the adjacent stud bay my lovely assistant informed me
there is a horizontal blockage 12" above the opening.

standpipe is 14" above opening



Edited 5 times.

looks like i don't have to offset standpipe to fit in second stud bay.
so only question now is if i can put studor vent low enough to fit in the opening shown in picture above

also if I fit a cleanout wye below the san tee and maintained the existing hole in wall the trap will be higher than the 12" max from floor that is often mentioned...

otherwise i'll have to put cleanout in crawl space below.
that would look better in the laundry room but be more of a pain if ever had to use it, but not that big a deal.



Edited 1 times.

"there is a horizontal blockage 12" above the opening."

Is that the mid plate that's in the way? Can you drill a hole with a hole saw and open another hole above for the AAV mounting? You need access to change out the AAV anyways.

unfortunately the blockage is a switch box on the opposite side of that wall

plus I don't want to have another access panel up there by the switch if i could avoid it...

is it completely un-koshur to have the studor low?

studor vent height relative to trap is minimum 4 inches.

Hallelujah!... That's what I was hoping, thank you so much.
Thank you thank you thank you

if the min horiz dist from trap to tee is 4" cl to cl i should be ok here, right?

you may be able to do your p-trap inside the existing stud bay without having to go across to the left, if you "roll" the U-bend to the right then swing the rest back to the left.

remember that the studor vent must be accessable for future replacement.
so that makes your cleanout scenario redundant.
just use a long sweep 90 below the san tee.
you can always unscrew the studor vent and snake thru the female adapter if it is ever necessary.

sum(FL), thanks for the idea but there's no room to the right.
you can't see it in the picture but that opening I cut is flush with the stud to the right.
it's about a 8" stud bay.
I think its going to work well now going to the left.
Thanks to everyone for your amazing help and guidance!!!
This is one of the most helpful sites I've ever found on the internet!
now if i could only find one like this for electrical questions LOL

packy(MA) thanks as always for your sage advice!!!
I so appreciate all you guys' help, wisdom, and experience!!!
That's a great idea about snaking thru the vent, hadn't thought of that.
Since that picture above had shown a cleanout below the tee i went ahead and got a long sweep w/ cleanout end.
that will go below the floor and happily I'll never have to use it now
I wish I could buy you lunch or a new tool or something...you've been so helpful to me so many times over the years!
Keep up the fantastic work.
Sites like this restore my faith in humanity



Edited 1 times.

I just want to make sure this isn't an "s" trap.
And what makes it *not* an S trap is the vent, right?
I saw on another thread about 4" from trap to vent...

on thread "Re:Washer drain distances"
Author: steve (CA)
The minimum length of the horizontal pipe from trap weir to vent is twice the pipe diameter(4" in your case for 2" drain pipe).

Just want to make sure I'm ok here...

in the picture it's dry fit...when glued the trap and san tee will be tight

I've done hundreds that way. 'nuff said..

awesome! now to crawl down into the ugly crawl space and figure out the rest of the run
(separate thread since this got so long) lol

Did you cut completely thru that stud?