I am in the process of connecting a pipe from the meter which is a 3/4" PVC pipe to copper before it enters the house. I posted about this previously and the thread has now been displaced a few pages down so I am starting a new thread to ask a few questions.

In order to transition from the 3/4" PVC (below grade) to copper, hj's suggestion was to use an IPS compression coupling where one end connects to the PVC pipe, and the other end connects to a 3/4" brass nipple, in a horizontal position, then from the end of the brass nipple, a threaded elbow to transition to copper tubing in the vertical position, rises above grade, then a full port ball valve, then a tee to enter the building with a garden valve. Packy suggested that the Ford Meter Box company's IPS compression is the best coupling to make this transition.



I am ready to proceed but have a few specific question about the Ford coupling.

(1) If you go to Ford Meter Box's web site, there are many variations of these compression couplings listed:

[www.fordmeterbox.com]

On the left side menu under "Compression (PVC)" there are several options:
Compression (PVC) on both ends
Compression (PVC) X MIP
Compression (PVC) X FIP
Compression (PVC) X Flared Copper
Compression (PVC) X Female Copper Thread

I know the coupling that works in my case is PVC on both ends, but what is "Female Copper Thread"? Is it not the same as FIP?

(2) It also listed four classes of compression couplings - Compression CTS, PEP, PVC and Galvanized IP. Aren't PVC and Galvanized IP both the same ODs and that's all that matters for a compression fitting?

(3) On the PVC end of this compression fitting, would it be preferred for me to cement to the 3/4" SCH40 PVC pipe a coupling then a short piece of SCH80 PVC pipe, simply to make the connection? I ask because it would be less likely for me to overtighten the nut and end up cracking the pipe? Or this is not necessary or even preferred since it may reduce the volume a little?

(4) If you look at a picture of these couplings, there is a compression nut but on each end there is an integrated brass "C" clamp with a hex screw. What is the purpose of this? It relies on the compression sleeve and nut to make the seal, then what is the purpose of the two clamps? Do you put in a long screw/bolt in order to fasten the coupling onto some wall/foundation or is that just some additional stiffening of the mechanical connection?

(5) The current plan is to use this coupling to join the 3/4" PVC to a 3/4" brass nipple in the horizontal position, then a female threaded elbow to the nipple, then to vertical copper pipe and ball valve. But I noticed that they do make a coupling to join dis-similar material, and one of them is "Pack Joint for Copper or Plastic Tubing (CTS) to PVC/IPS PE Pipe (PVC)". I wonder, would this coupling work better? I can transition from PVC to copper directly, and if I connect a piece of curved 90 degree soft copper tubing to it, I can eliminate one buried elbow joint. Thoughts? Although, I have not been able to find a place that sells this PVC to CTS transition coupling. The straight PVC X PVC one yes so this other one must be really specialized.

Click on the top link and theirs your fittings copper(cts) to pvc

[www.fordmeterbox.com]

I would PVC glue a female pvc x 3/4"mips adaptor on the end of the PVC and transition to copper. This is the accepted way to make this connection without mechanical fittings under the ground. You can then forget about this problem. If you make the copper pipe 10 ft long it will be an excellent ground for your Electrical system. Check with an electrician for best advice on this.

I have done the PVC male adapter to copper female adapter many times. If the Ford compression coupling is a better way so that's why I want to do it that way and all the followup questions. If it's a bit more cost, effort or time it's OK.

I didn't know the ford coupling came in that copper tubing x IPS variety.
that is exactly what I would use.

They seem to have many different variations. However, most of them are not available for purchase locally, or even if so it's a special order taking up to two weeks, and if I have to wait 2 weeks I might as well order it online.

So far the only one I have been able to find locally, is one but it's not a straight coupling, but a valve. One end is a 3/4" PVC (IPS) connection, then a valve, then a 3/4" MIP connection. I wonder if I should get that fitting and just leave the valve in the open position permanently, since I won't be digging down to open or close it and will have a shutoff valve as soon as the pipe goes above grade. Are these valves full port ball valves? They look like they are quarter turn so I am guessing in the open position there is no flow restriction right?

sum, I don't know 100% but I believe they are built like a gas cock ?
no Teflon seat but rather a forced taper fit .
maybe not full flow in the sense a ball valve is but certainly not much restriction.