When installing 3/4" brass full port ball valves...

(1) Is it better to buy sweat connection valves and solder directly, or is it better to buy FIP connection valves so you can connect a length of copper + male adapter to each end without risking heat being applied too close to the valve body?

(2) Is it preferred to remove the lever handle and packing to avoid overheating the guts of the valve?

(3) If the valve is installed on a vertical section of the pipes, is there any concern that when soldering the joints higher than the valve, that excess solder may run into the joint and drip down to the valve, ruining the parts?



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My personal answer to the first two questions is, NO. I have never done any of those things. I do not worry about the orientation of the valve.

There are precautions such as wetting a cloth and wrapping it around an area of concern that are good practice. Knowing how to apply heat and the cleaning the joints, fluxing both interior and exterior areas are equally important. I've not had a problem with smaller size piping but use care with all sizes, particularly 2" and above. Also the larger sizes need to have the heat that can only be obtained with Acetylene and Oxygen. Also there are other products that will absorb excess heat on the market.

Or you could just Propress a ball valve in 5 seconds and be done with it....no gas....no solder...no flux....no sand cloth.

...... and depend upon an 'o' ring for a lifetime seal

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Just need a $2,000.00 Pro-Press tool.

well, I have never used a Propress, and being just a DIYer I don't think I will use it enough to justify it's cost.

I do think I can rent one with a huge deposit. But then again, never having used one, I don't think it's wise to do one as a "test". When I learned to soldered I tested over 20 throw away joints, then took them apart just to learn and get a feel for it.

Also my understanding is Propress is used under certain conditions only like when there are gas lines near by or water is dripping non-stop so soldering is impractical?

I'm with HJ. If someone manufactures a valve with with sockets that are intended to be soldered, they should expect to see some heat. I try to be kind, and not over-heat... maybe use a wet rag... sometimes.

bernabeu,call your friends in the Plumbers/Pipe fitters union and ask them when was the last time they saw a soldered joint on the job site.Open flame is just about illegal in my state.

when we made the switch from copper to pex it was worth it to me to invest in the tools and the inventory. BUT at this stage of my career where I only work a few hours a day and a few days a week, it makes no sense to invest thousands in pro press.

Quote

Author: NoHub (MA)
bernabeu,call your friends in the Plumbers/Pipe fitters union and ask them when was the last time they saw a soldered joint on the job site.Open flame is just about illegal in my state.

When I retired we were still silver soldering our copper

I still do, occasionally, when i can 'prefab' before dry-walling

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

I don't see all that much diff between propress and sharkbite.