I need to repair a slow leak coming out of a fitting that is threaded into the top (OUTLET) of a swimming pool pump. The 2" male adapter is leaking.







In addition, the pump itself is sitting on dirt, and I would like to raise it by 4 inches by sliding a thin block underneath it.

Now, since there is virtually no bare pipe on the inlet side of the pump, to raise the pump I would need to raise the entire manifold by the same distance.

So basically I think this is what I need to do.

(1) At the pump, where the leaking fitting is at the top, make a cut at the horizontal pipe above it.

(2) Make the cut across four pipes at the manifold.



(3) Raise the pump over a block.

(4) Extends the four pipes to the new height of the manifold with new couplings.

(5) Thread in a new male adapter to the top of the pump and remake the pipe and elbow.

Where I would appreciate some advice is how best to redo the 4 connections to the manifold.

First, as you can see, the pipe below all four elbows are painted brown. After I make the cut, I will need to get rid of the paint to solvent weld new couplings. I wonder if I can adequately clean off all the paint back to bare pipes.



Second, it seems I cannot solvent weld one connection at a time, I need to do all four at the same time. There is not enough time for me to apply primer and cement on the male AND female end of FOUR fittings then make the connections. Does it mean my best bet is to use four PVC unions there instead?



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can't you use stainless shielded couplings ?

packy, it's under pressure, I thought these couplings are for drains only?

eave the manifold alone. Cut the pump loose and move it away from the valve and then offset the pipe to connect the pump.

"They are not pressure rated. However, Husky couplings conform to ASTM C 1540. The specified test pressure in the standard is 30 psi for 1 ½” – 5”."

"If anything could be considered "normal", it would be about 10 psi. Most filter systems are designed to operate in the 5-15 or 10-20 psi range"

sum, both statements are from the internet.

sum, we don't have many swimming pools around and I don't do pool repair.
but I did do one where I did use 4 band no hub clamps. there was a section of piping that trapped water so I put clamps so it could be drained in the winter. it has worked just fine for many years.

hj, if I leave the manifold alone, then I will need to make a cut at the inlet of the pump. There is no bare pipe there except a sliver of 1/4".

I want to remake the outlet connection where it's leaking (and it looks like it's been leaking for a while since the last owner have packed putty, caulk, and other stuff around it which I have cleaned up), and raise the pump off the ground.



With only so little bare pipe I don't see how I can redo the connection once I make the cut there. Unless you see another place I can make the cut, or if there is some sort of internal coupling that I can cement on the inside of SCH40 2" pipes and won't significantly impact the pump's performance?

packy, how would you compare using no hub couplings vs PVC unions like this?



both the unions and no hub couplings would allow me to make the connections slow and easy.

can't comment on PVC unions since I don't really have any experience with them.

however, sewage ejector pumps are commonly connected with the cheaper variety of no hub clamps and I'm sure there is some pressure involved there.

I found this item at the big box store that I can solvent weld on the inside of the pipe.



BRADY 2 in. Sch. 40 Flush Inside Slip Coupling
Use the BRADY 2 In. Sch. 40 Flush Inside Slip Coupling to attach lengths of heavy-duty pipe. With this coupling, you won't have to fight inconsistent sizes on the inside diameter of the pipe.
*For use in coupling 2 pieces of schedule 40 heavy-gauge pipe together with glue (glue sold separately)
*Helps in preventing the pipe from getting hung up when being fed into the well hole
*This item will not increase the outside diameter of the pipe
*1-piece molded construction
*Inside diameter allows for easy installation of 1-1/4 in. well point

If I cut the sliver of gap between the pump and the manifold can I use two of these to make new connections? This will allow me to avoid having to deal with making four painted connections at the manifold.

I don't quite understand what it means when it says "Use the BRADY 2 In. Sch. 40 Flush Inside Slip Coupling to attach lengths of heavy-duty pipe. With this coupling, you won't have to fight inconsistent sizes on the inside diameter of the pipe." what is "heavy duty pipe"? I thought SCH40 is SCH40? also why would this coupling immune from "inconsistent sizes on the ID" since it works with the ID?



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Sum,

Cut horizontal pipe after pump discharge.

Cut manifold 'risers' and install unions - this will give you space for a (approximate) 1" paver under pump.

They can be glued on one-at-a-time and will result in near perfect re-alignment.

Repipe pump discharge installing union on horizontal (where you cut previously) allowing for future service (by unscrewing "L" shaped piping from pump discharge).



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

You are going to move the pump anyway, so I would disconnect the electrical and "spin" the pump off the valve connection.

hj, I don't think I can spin the pump off the valve. From what I can tell, whoever put this all together solvent weld the connection on both the pump and valve side.





I think the correct approach would have been to make a union between the valve and the pump but that wasn't done.

So if I have to break this connection for any reason (such as the pump needing replacement), there is no way to do it unless I cut the connecting pipe and cement an internal coupling?

Looks like Teflon tape to me. Maybe I'm wrong.

Most pump inlets are threaded. I think it’s a close PVC threaded nipple.

a close PVC nipple?

I thought most close PVC nipples, either the threads will run from one end to the other, in which case I should see threads, or there would be a hex shape section in the middle?

In any case shouldn't I be seeing at lease a few threads?

teflon tape or dried up pipe dope?

In either case it would not be a solvent welded joint.

OK let's say on the pump side is a threaded female connection.



Does the valve side looks like a solvent welded joint? Looks like it to me.

Then what is the fitting? It would have to be a 2" PVC fitting that has a spigot on one end, and male threads on the other?

2" NPT Male x Socket nipple. I just thought that hj's way was the easiest way. If you think it easier to cut all the pipes, then do it that way. Different strokes...

Just cut and redo the leaking part and plan to raise it up in 5-10 years when you must replace the whole thing? Seems like too much trouble for any benefit to mess with the manifold...

Paul, I might actually do both, so that the manifold can be detached if necessary.

Cutting the pipes and adding unions should be easy, in a sense that I doubt there will be much that could go wrong in the process, other than the surface paint on the pipes that I must clean off.

Rotating the pump off that fitting, assuming it's a threaded connection there could be trickier. Not sure how heavy that pump is, may be 50-75 pounds? Need to dig the ground under it to give it room to spin freely, but then if I am not careful doing it, and the pump is not being rotated straight out perfectly, I could end up cross threading the fitting, or even crack the fitting, then I would be in trouble with a broken fitting stuck inside.

As a previous pool owner, I'll chime in. The input where the manifold goes into is the strainer basket which keeps debris out of the pump. Those are threaded connections, not solvent welds. Also the multiport valve right before the strainer is a threaded connection, never a solvent weld. So regardless of what it looks like, that is a threaded nipple connecting the multiport valve to the input on the strainer.

Look for the 4 bolts that attach the pump/strainer assembly to the pump motor. Remove these bolts to separate the motor from the pump, this will allow you to easily rotate the strainer assembly to unscrew it from the multiport valve. There should have been a union there when it was installed. (Up north, this whole apparatus has to be drained, blown clear, and then the all the mechanicals get disconnected and put inside for the winter.)

Rather than cut the manifold inputs, I would add an elbow after the multiport valve to raise the pump input to the new height of the pump on the blocks. Then I would then cut the output back further, on the vertical portion that goes down toward the filter. This will allow you to rotate the output piping back toward the filter since the pump will now sit further away from the multiport valve.

Option B is to just dig down under the pump and recess a patio block under it. Unless that area floods badly during storms and submerges the pump, there is no reason to elevate it. Those pump motors are high duty cycle and very durable.

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Not a plumber by trade but a fierce DIYer

LI Guy,

"The input where the manifold goes into is the strainer basket which keeps debris out of the pump. Those are threaded connections, not solvent welds."

I will double check again. Logically it makes sense for it to be threaded there, since the outlet is threaded for sure with a male adapter fitting. I just find it hard to believe there isn't a single thread showing.

"Also the multiport valve right before the strainer is a threaded connection, never a solvent weld."

This 3 port valve I am not sure. That valve is branded "Jandy" and has a model #4717 on it. I googled that and Amazon sells it.

[www.amazon.com]

from the picture it seems to show a smooth inside surface.



In addition, looking at all the pipes connected to it, and the subsequent valves, it looks more like solvent welded joints then threaded joint.



However, I looked up the manufacturer's specs, didn't say if it's threaded or solvent welded. But it did say the material is made of CPVC which I don't think bond with PVC unless special cement is used.

"Look for the 4 bolts that attach the pump/strainer assembly to the pump motor. Remove these bolts to separate the motor from the pump, this will allow you to easily rotate the strainer assembly to unscrew it from the multiport valve."

If I disconnnect the motor from the strainer assembly, are there wires connecting them? or will the motor separate cleanly? I was thinking about removing the motor to see but I don't know if I will be facing a whole bundle of wires and gaskets and springs that I can't put back together.

"Option B is to just dig down under the pump and recess a patio block under it. Unless that area floods badly during storms and submerges the pump, there is no reason to elevate it. Those pump motors are high duty cycle and very durable."

What you are seeing now, is the result of my recent digging. Half the pump was under dirt, and the other half covered with 4 to 6 inches of leaves. Took me a few days to expose this whole assembly, the last owner didn't really take care of things. There are metal legs on the underside of the pump that are rusting. If I need to fix the leak on the top side then I want to raise the pump higher. As a matter of fact I am thinking of getting a 24X24 patio stone to put the filter and pump on, then an additional 4X16 block to raise the pump even higher.

Sum, that pump/strainer housing doesn't look like it's made from PVC. I think it has a threaded connection.

As a lazy guy, I'll chime in. Dig out under one half the pump, and put a piece of 1x6 against the area towards the center of the pump. Fill that half with gravel, or some other kind of decorative stone. Make sure you're supporting the pump. Then dig out the other half, remove the one-by and fill the rest with gravel. Tools required= shovel, gravel, 2 beers.

The multiport may be solvent, but I would really be surprised if the strainer basket was a solvent connection. Worst case, you unthread the strainer and mate to the stub on the multiport with a female threaded fitting.

To be clear, I'm talking about the 4 bolts I've circled in green (you can't see the 4th in this photo). You are only separating the motor from the pump, not taking the motor casing apart, so there are no wires, springs, etc. There is a gasket sandwiched in there which may be in rough shape, but nothing a bead of silicone on each side won't solve. You can see the 3 sections, the left piece is the motor, the right piece is the pump, and the gasket is in the middle.



As you said earlier, without separating the pump and the motor, you will have to disconnect the electric from the motor, and the manage to turn that heavy assembly without damaging the piping. Also the pump is likely wired for 220v.

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Not a plumber by trade but a fierce DIYer

The "pump wired for 220/240" has nothing to do with anything. It still only has two wires and MAYBE a ground. If the pump is going to be moved the wiring will probably have to be modified anyway.

It does if he is going to disconnect and reconnect the wiring....two hots and a ground are different from a hot, neutral, and a ground. BTW, it definitely has a ground, unless it was installed before 1960...

There is enough slack in the liqui-tite conduit to put the pump up on a block and it will be a lot easier to unscrew the strainer from the selector valve without that heavy pump attached to it.

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Not a plumber by trade but a fierce DIYer

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