Will it damage a 1/2" Type L copper pipe to use a nipple wrench inside it? Will a 3/8" nipple wrench fit? I will need to thread it into a drop ear 90.

I need a nipple with a female fitting for the fixture, and it looks like the best solution will be to make one myself instead of using a brass nipple and a coupling. But, if you have another suggestion, thanks in advance.

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************



Edited 1 times.

what are you trying to do?

There are times I need to have a nipple of a specific length to fit in between a female connection in the wall and a recessed connection inside a tub spout. If it's not close to a standard brass nipple then I would solder a length of copper pipes with male adapters on each end.

If it's the new style tub spout where the threaded connection is behind the wall, and the spout side is a free pipe end with a gasket fit, it is difficult to tighten the recessed connection. Once I did that by tightening with a plumbers wrench on the copper pipe, deliberately made the pipe several inches too long, then cut off the end that I mutilated with the wrench.



Edited 1 times.

Normally I just wrap the threads with Teflon and tighten in with a pair of Channel locks. If it is a Tub spout the pressure is only that while the water is turned on and not as great as with the water off.

I have a wall-mount drinking water faucet with a 1/2" male connection. I have a 1/2" drop ear 90 in the wall, set back about 2.5 inches from the face of the tile. The tile is not yet installed. Female connector will need to be recessed slightly in the tile. There is no rear access.



*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

Are you sure that is a pipe thread, and not a straight thread? I'd take a piece of sheetrock out and reset the drop ear with a nipple and coupling, flush with the surface of the tile



Edited 1 times.

If your drop ear 90 is fixed and not movable, then you will need a piece of nipple with a coupling, or a piece of copper pipe with a male adapter on one end and a female adapter on the other. Why would you need an internal pipe wrench to thread it tight? When you install the faucet you will tighten all the pieces at the same time when you tighten the faucet.

Are you sure that is a pipe thread, and not a straight thread?
No, I am not sure. It seemed to thread in to the drop ear, but I only tightened it a couple of revolutions hand-tight.

Let's say it is a straight thread. What are my options then?

The wall is open now, no drywall yet.

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

Why would you need an internal pipe wrench to thread it tight? When you install the faucet you will tighten all the pieces at the same time when you tighten the faucet.
My starting point was, that there are no flat surfaces on the faucet. So I thought it would be easier to get torque by installing the nipple first, and then threading on the faucet by itself.

The issue with using a stock nipple and female to female coupling is that I don't have a lot of depth to work with, and I am not sure that that combination (Close or 1 1/2 or 2 inch, plus coupling) will be flush, or close to flush, with the face of the tile.

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

"Why would you need an internal pipe wrench to thread it tight? When you install the faucet you will tighten all the pieces at the same time when you tighten the faucet.
My starting point was, that there are no flat surfaces on the faucet. So I thought it would be easier to get torque by installing the nipple first, and then threading on the faucet by itself."

This is fairly similar to installing a tub spout to a threaded elbow with a connecting piece in between.

Say you install the nipple first, and use whatever tool (internal wrench, external wrench, hex wrench) to torque it down tight. Then later on you install the wall, tile etc...then the faucet. As you tighten the faucet you might end up turning the deeper connection inside the wall. With a tub spout even if you end up real tight, you might have to torque it further so the spout points down. I prefer to evenly distribute the torque to both connections by tightening both at the same time with more "play". If one day I have to uninstall the faucet you might end up unthreading the faucet itself, or the faucet plus the nipple.

Maybe a deep socket from an auto parts store? I keep a few on the truck and tighten with a pipe wrench.

Using a socket to tighten is a good point. The sweat to female 1/2" fitting is hex shaped, so if I make sure the tile guy leaves a large enough hole it should be possible to insert a socket. May also need to use a larger escutcheon than the one supplied to cover that hole.

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************



Edited 1 times.

I have a set of these that I use occasionally on hex nuts of faucets and showers.



Requires very little clearance on the side. However I have no idea if this will fit snugly over a hex shaped female adapter.

A straight thread would have a mechanical seal (washer or o-ring) at the end of the threads. Look closely, and you should see the taper. If the wall is open, move the drop ear so a nipple and a coupling brings you out to where you need.

A straight thread would have a mechanical seal (washer or o-ring) at the end of the threads. Look closely, and you should see the taper.

Comparing it to a copper male adapter, the fixture threads do appear straight.

When I thread the fixture into a female adapter, 4 of 10 threads are not visible.


When I thread the tapered male adapter into the same female adapter, 4 of 8 threads are not visible.


Is there such a thing as a female pipe tapered thread to female straight thread coupling with seal? Or a sweat to 1/2" female straight adapter with washer? And what would those be called? Otherwise what is the alternative?

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

However I have no idea if this will fit snugly over a hex shaped female adapter.

Thanks Sum, my 1" SAE socket fits well on the 1/2 hex female. The socket OD is 1 3/8" and the included escutcheon is 1 13/16". So if I can have the tile guy make the hole 1 1/2 to 1 5/8 and it is well centered it should work. Although I still have this straight vs. tapered thread issue in the other subthread ...



*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

Personally I would find it strange that if it's a straight thread and seals with a washer or gasket that the manufacturer didn't provide the female counter part. Isn't normally these wall mounts would have a union at the connection? Yours is just male threads, do you need to remove the spout and rotate the entire faucet in?

do you need to remove the spout and rotate the entire faucet in?
Yes. I would have preferred a union nut or some manufacturer fitting, but the selection of wall-mounted drinking water faucets seems quite limited. Locally the big distributor had nothing, I inquired with the site sponsor and they had nothing. This was the only one I could find, shipped directly from Seoul.

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

It came with no instructions? I don't know of any faucet that "mounts" with the piping.

It came with no instructions?
1) Correct, no instructions. Nice machining, looks good, smooth valve action, but no instructions.

I don't know of any faucet that "mounts" with the piping.
2) Now you do!

Update: I made a male-to-female nipple out of Type L and sweat fittings for leak testing. Unfortunately as short as I can make it, it's still too long, so I'll apparently have to try a close nipple and coupling, if I can find something with a washer but ...

Is it safe to assume there is no coupling for male tapered to female straight threads with washer? I can screw this into a 1/2" fixture hose with washer, no problem, no leak. But in the 1/2" NPT copper sweat fitting, it drips.

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

Are you sure that is a pipe thread, and not a straight thread?

To add to the confusion, while researching, I see that the sponsor considers IPS to refer to Iron Pipe Size and equivalent to NPT.
[www.plumbingsupply.com]

While another site says IPS means Iron Pipe Straight and is apparently NOT the same as NPT.
[www.dixonvalve.com]

Can they both be correct? What am I missing here?

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

That subject has been discussed here, at length. It gets even more complicated. Without going off on that subject....your faucet was probably designed for a compression fitting, like a faucet supply. I'll throw you another curveball....since it is from overseas, are you sure it's not metric? There is a reason that faucets are secured, and don't flex the piping when used. This reminds me of a skit that Eddie Murphy did on SNL, years ago. It was about George Washington Carver. He said, " The man spent his whole life, trying to make a peanut into a phonograph needle".

are you sure it's not metric?
Seems unlikely, as it threads in just fine to a 1/2" FIP BrassCraft faucet connector.



*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

Have you tried disassembling the valve, to see if the spout and handle orientation can be adjusted after the valve is attached to the wall?

No. I might be able to change the valve orientation, but the spout fitting is cast in the same piece of brass as the connecting threads, so I can't see a way to change the spout orientation.

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

IPS = iron pipe size

NPT = national pipe taper(ed)

IPS is identical to NPT


NPSM = national pipe straight/standard mechanical (running thread)


Foreign faucets are often metric or British threads which often are (metric) straight mechanical requiring a 'mated' fitting and a gasket.

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

IPS = iron pipe size

NPT = national pipe taper(ed)

IPS is identical to NPT

NPSM = national pipe straight/standard mechanical (running thread)

Please comment on the Dixon Valve chart, which appears to contradict what you are saying about IPS and NPT. Specifically, if IPS is straight thread, how can it be compatible with NPT, which is tapered?

IPS Iron Pipe Straight Thread (See NPSH for compatibility)
IPT Iron Pipe Thread
NPT American Standard Taper Pipe Thread
NPSH American Standard Straight Pipe for Hose Couplings (National Pipe Straight Hose)
NPSM American Standard Straight Mechanical Joints (National Pipe Straight Mechanical)

[www.dixonvalve.com]

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

jblanche, I can't answer your questions on the pipe thread standards. However, it is possible for the foreign seller to not follow or even understand standards.

I know I have purchased plumbing items before where the source was overseas from places like Amazon. For example I bought one of those expandable garden hose once (that lasted like 1 month before bursting). They clearly say the connections are 3/4" NPT. I emailed them and asked them to confirm these are 3/4" NPT and they forwarded to some tech and replied yes it is 3/4" NPT. I replied said you showed a picture of it being connected to a hose bib, so it seems to indicate a compression fit and a hose thread. They said yes it connect to hose and it's 3/4" NPT. I gave up and ordered it anyways and it's hose thread not 3/4" NPT. I would question the foreign manufacturer's claim and specs, if there is one.

I would question the foreign manufacturer's claim and specs, if there is one.
I would too. In fact, I had ordered a similar item that appeared to have an identical connection, except it had a flexible spout. They told me it was a 9/16" connection! But it threaded up fine into the 1/2" IPS faucet connector. Also they had no 112.18.1 compliance cited, and I've failed on that before with the inspector, so I sent it back.

Since there was no choice on this item, and I figured it was coming from a place with different standards, they didn't tell, and I didn't ask!

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************

I'll pass this bit of wisdom that my father passed on to me, when I was considering an off-brand pull-chain toilet for my bathroom remodel. He said," That's nice...Where are you going to get parts for it in 5 years"?

...Where are you going to get parts for it in 5 years?
Yeah, I do think about that, considering that every other faucet in the house is from Delta/Peerless, aka Masco.

But with no options on this item, it was still cheap enough that if it went bad, I'd just get a new one. Central Brass makes some more conventional-looking items that would work, too. And the valve assembly on this is the same as the one I sent back, so maybe they both came from the same factory. Who knows. Besides, wife says we're leaving in 5 years.

*******************************
Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
*******************************
I am not a plumber.
*******************************