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Author:
rschaab (NJ)
I am thinking of replacing this drain assembly because of leaks at the strainer nut and slip nut fittings. Problem is I can't find a replacement for the curved pipe that attaches to the tub strainer. Can someone tell me what it is and if it is available?
Alternatively, I was thinking of replacing the whole trap assembly with PVC. Could I use an S-trap if it will fit?
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Author:
srloren (CA)
If the copper fitting inside the wall is threaded, I would remove it, also remove the tail piece at the sink drain and screw in a brass nipple then make the connection with ABS or PVC Tubular piping. Reduce the pipe size to 1 1/4" with a 1 1/2" x 1 1/4" brass or plastic Nut under the sink.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
It is a flanged 90 degree elbow. It is one half of a sink continuous waste, cut off to fit the situation. The other piece, turning down, is a 1 1/2" flush elbow from a toilet flush valve connection.
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Author:
srloren (CA)
Makes no difference...repipe it for less problems in the future.
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Author:
packy (MA)
I don't believe the trap needs to be replaced.
as for the rest, there a couple of different ways of changing the parts.
have a look here at the parts and the video. it is all explained.
[www.plumbingsupply.com]
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Author:
srloren (CA)
I suggested replacing the Brass Trap because tubular is inexpensive and has a smoother surface to prevent Lint from causing a stoppage. Improve as you replace...
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Author:
packy (MA)
sloren, you are gonna give our friend from SC (bernabeu) stomach acid.
actually, I think he has a good brass trap with a union nut to take apart and clean really well.
unscrewing it without a big enough wrench to use as a holdback could be troublesome.
I'd take it apart at the union , clean it and the outlet pipe and leave it.
in fact, he may only need a tailpiece washer, a couple of new nylon slip washers and some grease and be as good as new.
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Author:
rschaab (NJ)
Thanks for all the advice everyone. The trap is brass and still in good shape, so I will start with Mr Packy's suggestion to take apart and clean really well. Then replace the washers hopefully will get a good seal.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Reducing it to 1 1/4", (and I am not sure how he could do it), as you suggested, would NOT "create problems in the future"?
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Author:
srloren (CA)
I like going to plastic tubular because it is easy to cut to length, smooth as I said and you have more options. Durham fittings and Gal pipe or Brass requires more work with fewer options than plastic. The reduction to 1 1/4" is simply by using a 1 1/2" IPS x 1 1/4" Tube reducing slip nut. Easy Peasy....
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