Hello all,

Concrete subfloor with cast iron toilet flange that is 1/2" below 3rd layer of flooring (vinyl, tile & laminate). "Plumbing expert", at big box store recommended using 1/2" pvc spacer(s) with a SS ring, on top, like these, to raise flange to proper height. He said to drill 2 holes, in existing cast iron flange and attach spacer(s) & SS ring with screws, through 2 of their 6 holes.

That said, what is "proper height", for flange?

I also appreciate your thoughts, on this recommendation.

just put some long toilet bolts into the slots on the cast iron flange. then smear some bowl wax on the cast flange.
set the PVC spacer down and push firmly.
the proper height should have the new flange bottom resting on top of the finish floor.
so you will have to repeat this wax and flange sandwich.
now take an extra washer and nut and tighten the whole sandwich together.
from here just set the toilet as normal..

Thanks!
To confirm, no drilling through the cast iron flange, to attach pvc spacer(s) & SS ring with screws, but rather use long toilet bolts in the slots, on cast iron flange, “bowl wax” & an extra washer and nut to tighten?

When you say “bowl wax”, do you mean a wax ring?
Also, do I need the SS ring?

As for proper height, there’s a 7” circular cutout, in flooring, around cast iron flange that would tightly fit one 1/2” spacer, which with wax, would be, at least level with finish floor. Therefore, the bottom of a another 1/2” spacer & wax, would also be at least level with but not wide enough to rest, on top of finish floor; making top of flange, at least a 1/2” above finish floor...Will this work?



Edited 3 times.

3/8" to 7/16" is the average height of most closet flanges in which they sit on top of the finished floor surface. 1/2" should be fine and you might need to set a thin layer of shims around the base if higher than 1/2".

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Everything in Plumbing can be repaired or replaced.

Thanks!
Looks likes the pvc spacer also comes in 1/4”, so perhaps I’d be better off using that as my 2nd one, if needed.

There is a recent thread on the same topic you might find the replies there informative as well.

[www.plbg.com]

no stainless ring needed.
don't put a whole wax ring between the spacers.
just smear 1/8 - 1/4 inch soft wax and smush the spacer into it.
if the top of the first spacer is even with the finish floor then another dab of wax and a second 1/4 inch thick spacer will be just about perfect.
now use the extra wacher and nut and tighten well but not killer tight.
hopefully some of the soft wax will squeeze out into the center.
just smooth it with you finger and you'll be good to go.
there is no need to secure the spacers with screws.
the lowest flange is very secure and there is no external force trying to separate the spacers once the extra nut is tightened.

Quote
sum
There is a recent thread on the same topic you might find the replies there informative as well.

[www.plbg.com]

Thanks, for the heads up... Must be a FL thing.

Quote
Packy
no stainless ring needed.
don't put a whole wax ring between the spacers.
just smear 1/8 - 1/4 inch soft wax and smush the spacer into it.
if the top of the first spacer is even with the finish floor then another dab of wax and a second 1/4 inch thick spacer will be just about perfect.
now use the extra wacher and nut and tighten well but not killer tight.
hopefully some of the soft wax will squeeze out into the center.
just smooth it with you finger and you'll be good to go.
there is no need to secure the spacers with screws.
the lowest flange is very secure and there is no external force trying to separate the spacers once the extra nut is tightened.

Thanks, that’s very helpful...Appreciate ya’!
As far as, soft wax, should I get the “smear” from a wax ring or is it sold in some other form that I should buy?

just a plain old wax ring is what to use.
i like it because it is easy cleanup and a tried and true sealer for toilet connections.
last thing... make sure the long bolts are solid brass not plated steel..

Great, thanks!
Will do.



Edited 1 times.