I’ve got some issues I can’t seem to shake out of a system and I’ve only done a few things. As I’m a dull apprentice I think the best way to help you guys is to describe in detail everything I did, please bear with me as this isn’t going to be a quick read.

So two days ago my aunt calls me and tells me something is amuck with her dishwasher.at this point sink has good flow both hot and cold. I show up and see it’s connected with 3/8 copper flex pipe. Found the issue was a short on the controller caused by a bug bridging connections with its body: new failure for me.

She decides she wants a new washer but needs a day to pick one. So I run out to the truck and grab a pressure cap so she can use her sink. Now the way the water is run there’s a standard trunk and branch line but it runs both east and west from a central water heater.

Anyway the branch that supplies the kitchen is 3/4” CVPC on the hot and 3/4” pvc on cold. Cold line from the branch runs to a 90 and straight through the floor to a male thread to a brass ball valve to a brass male for the sink hookup Hot runs from the branch also to a 90through the floor to a male thread then to another brass valve then to an iron T then on one end a pressure fitting and the other is a brass male to the sink, all good but I don’t like the plastic male bits since they shear.

So when I go to attach the pressure cap it’s really not going on nicely, keeps trying to trickle water. So I get to reefing and snap the whole bitch off. I race out to shutoff the main as it’s the first place I could think of with all that hot water racing out.

So now I get to redo all that brass mess with the plastic bits. I crawl under the house and cut off the line 6” after the elbow and attach a two foot section of 3/4.

I go topside and first install a T then two cpvc valves so I can isolate in the future, then I install a plastic male on the sink side and a cap on a three inch but so when it’s time for the new washer I can just cut it and hookup a sharkbite 3/4brass and the washer dang deal.

So all hooked up and I turn the main back on and am starting to do the bleed and I realize I should drain the scale and junk from her hot water heater. So I head back to the water closet and once it’s full I close it’s brass valve and drain it, honestly looked surprisingly good, close it up and go back to do the bleed.

Everything was fine except for the kitchen sink was just low flow as it gets and it also wasn’t constant. It wasn’t intermittent but it was oscillating between crap and a hair crappier.

So I tried a bleed again and didn’t fix anything. Pulled aerator/distributor and cleaned them, did nothing. Tried to create hammer on the other systems, did nothing. Crawled underneath and tapped corners did nothing.

But the thing that’s tripping me out is that the low flow is on both the hot and cold on this string only... all other runs have normal pressure even though one of the runs lost all its water when I cut that pipe above the elbow.

Thx for reading by the way



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Go back and read what you have written and understand some of it does not make sense. Edit your question to use a better description and proper words so we can help you. As it stands now we must guess at your meaning? Help us help you by bringing clarity to your problem. Good luck...you can do it.

Every dishwasher I have installed required hot water. I have never heard of any brand using cold using cold.

i believe you are saying poor flow from the kitchen faucet, both hot and cold ??
if so, is there a sprayer ?
a sprayer has a diverter and that could be the problem.

Okay so poor flow from faucet both hot and cold, diverter and aerator are clean and clear. I only know four things that give issues in plumbing supply side, height (ruled out), distance (ruled out), obstructions (likely), and air. Since the low flow came after messing with the water heater valves I feel obstruction is likely but it effects both hot and cold supply branches to the kitchen which is where I’m getting lost. I don’t have a hot water recirculating system or booster. I’m guessing that maybe the hot water heater sent some scale into my hot water line and it could’ve gone into the sink diverter but I already played around with that. I guess my question is what’re some other possible failure points in the system?

I’m a part time retard so excuse the lack of clarity, but honestly I’m lost too so please ask me specifically where it’s messedd up and I can try and clarify. Well if you have the patience



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I don’t know why I’ve been saying diverter since I don’t have a sprayer so change that to regulator but since it’s clearnim just going to start pulling and purging pipes. Something will give. Maybe?

Inepticons if your water heater has a gate valve instead of a ball valve you should replace the gate valve with a ball valve, Gate valve stems tend to erode and strip and you wont know the position of the gate. Maybe half closed and this restricts flow of hot water. Debris from the inside of the WH also poses a problem. On many dishwasher there is a filter that can easily be blocked causing restriction or no flow. You cleaned the aerator but your angle stops can also have debris. If your water heater is more than 5 years old and your water has a lot of minerals in it you should probably replace it. You should ask the advice of a trusted qualified plumber. There are many things to consider with plumbing problems. Good luck.

So I’m not sure what’s up but the kitchen faucet is working fine after yesterday both hot and cold. The dishwasher is still inop but now I’m convinced it’s a faulty inlet valve. Not sure what made me get sideways but I guess I should just be happy the bitch is sorted.

Ahh there’s where lack of clarity was, I should’ve specified the componentry better. It was a ball valve but a crusty one and her water heater is definitely old, I’d say approaching ten. I’ll remind her to replace before it fails. I’m sure a metal bucket of near boiling water only lasts so long before it cooks through... anyway thanks all for help and patience. Learned some stuffs



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