Seeking advice on how to handle the removal of the lower element on a family member's water heater. First, I soaked the outer perimeter of the element with PB Blaster numerous times. I used a 1/2" drive heavy duty ratchet, a quality six-sided socket and a three foot cheater pipe trying to get it to come out. I gently tapped on the plastic part with a hammer to see if that would help but it still won't budge. I was advised that I could use an impact gun to get it to let loose or use a torch to heat it up. I have done research and have read others have been successful by drilling two 7/32" holes in the head of the element's center portion and then using a 1/4" tap to thread two bolts in the holes to use to grab and turn it out with a pipe wrench or a bar. I am hoping someone who has used one of these options and can offer sound advice on what really works. I am a bit apprehensive to try one of these methods because there is no money in the family member's budget right now for replacement or to hire a pro if I do cause damage to the water heater. Thanks!

Make, model, and serial number of the heater. I have used all the methods you describe, and one of them usually works, but not always.

Thanks for your reply! I don't have that info at this moment as the water heater is at my relative's home several miles away. I can get the info later today and will post it. I do know it is a Whirlpool 50 gallon and is about 4 years old. We called Whirlpool and they acknowledged the water heater is still covered under the six year warranty for replacement parts. They provided the replacement part number and where to pick it up but the defective element has to be returned when the new part is provided. I looked up the part number, 362344, and it is just a 4500W/240V universal element. I am not concerned about getting the part replaced under warranty as I would rather use a better quality element as they are not that expensive. But, to get it out of the tank without collateral damage is the challenge of the day.

Since the top element is still working there is at least some hot water available. If an impact is used to break the element loose how much torque is required? I ask because I know impacts widely vary depending if the are air, electric or battery driven.

Out of curiosity, if you, as a pro, use a torch or impact gun to try and remove a stubborn element and there is a possibility of damage to the lining of the tank, do you advise the customer of the risk and have them sign a waiver?



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Long before that, I would be removing the tank and returning it to my supply house for a replacement due to it leaking, which is why the element is so tight.

Yes, I am sure that works well for a professional that has a business relationship with a supply house. There is no evidence of a water leak (yet). The water here in South Central Texas is full of lime and calcium and wreaks havoc on lower elements and plumbing in general.

1. It may not be damaged, visibly, now, but by the time you get the element out it may be.
2. NO ONE ever checks the heater to see if it was leaking
3. All the manufacturer wants to see is the name tag showing it WAS under warranty. The tank is discarded. In fact, at one time all we had to do was submit the label for the exchange to occur, but the process was abused so the "selling company", whoever it was, wanted to see the physical tank.
4. If I cannot remove the element, the heater is "damaged".

Thanks for the very useful information.



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As a follow up with this thread I wanted to post the results. Based on hj's advice, we contacted the manufacturer and told the customer service rep that we were unable to remove the lower element due to a water leak.

They authorized a replacement under warranty and we had to return the old water heater to receive the new one.

I installed it today and all is well! I just want to thank hj for his sage advice and all he contributes to this forum to selflessly help others.

Merry Christmas to all!



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Glad it worked out. I was not sure if your first call might have prevented the replacement.