Hello,
I am replacing a very old toilet from the 2nd floor of my 100 yr old house with a new one.
Inside the tile covered, cement floor, I found 4" lead waste pipe and an opening is 15 1/2" from the wall.

In order to minimize cutting through walls or the floor, I purchased and installed a shallow, oblong brass piece to offset the opening 1 1/2" back since all new toilets mostly 12" and 10" rough in.

During the install, I tried to seal the top with solder and torch and the pipe developed a few small holes.
I really dont want to rip up the floor or break out the wall.

Would it be possible to repair the inside of the pipe with lead flashing tape like used on roofing?
Would aluminum tape or rubber tape be reliable?
I also purchased a 4" x 3" wide copper tube cement in like a stent. Would this work?

Please see linked photos below:

Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you.


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Edited 4 times.

There is nothing that will adhere to the inside and be a permanent repair.

Toto has a unifit adapter that will accommodate 10", 12", 14" on some of their toilets. You could use that without having to deal with any offset.

[www.totousa.com]

you have to realize that there really was no direct connection between the old lead and the old flange.
most commonly the lead was left sticking out of the floor, the brass flange was set down and secured to the floor and the extra tall lead was peened over the flange. occasionally you will find one installed like this and the plumber soldered the edge of the peened over lead to the flange.
it is hard to advise you as to what to do to here with out seeing the lead.
post a picture so maybe there is a solution ??

He is trying to deal with the holes he made in the lead, which has nothing to do with the toilet's connection to it.

i think sum is under the assumption that he can put back the original flange and then use the Toto adapter.

IT depends on WHERE he burned the hole.

that is why i asked for a picture..

A picture would be nice.

I have no clue about lead pipes, but I did read somewhere that some magician plumbers can temporarily "fix" small holes in lead pipes by just waving a hot lamp over the lead and wipe around a bit. Is this true?

sum, it all depends on the wall thickness of the lead..
50/50 solder melts at a lower temperature than lead pipe so it can be patched..
but, if the hole is too big, too poorly positioned or the lead is old, thin and worn out forgetaboutit..
i believe 50/50 melts in the 400 deg range while lead is in the 600 deg range..

lead = 621.5

50/50 = 418

60/40 = 374 ('wiping' solder, preferred for lead work)



==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

gee... i thought lead melted at 621.49

it used to .... GLOBAL WARMING is the cause




temperature affects atmospheric pressure

pressure affects melting point

see:

dp/dT = L/T(Vf-Vi) So by subbing in the values one gets the gradient of the coexistance curve, which turns out to be 0.113 at 1 atm.

Reference [www.physicsforums.com]


ps. Packy, never, ever, BS a BSer

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

That's good to know. But since lead is soft and pliable, even if he has holes in the original lead pipe, can't he get a new section of lead pipe (if a slightly smaller size exist or if it can be slightly deformed to fit), insert that vertically into the old lead pipe, preferably all the way down to the closet elbow, then use a small peen hammer to gently hammer the inside wall tight against the old lead pipe, then peel the top part over the subfloor and old lead, even if there isn't a water tight seal, would that work?



Edited 1 times.

It would have to be a VERY hot lamp, and I doubt that any would reach that temperature in open air.

NO, it would have to be soldered to the old lead, which would difficult

Hello,
I have posted photos. It shows how I peened the lead over the oval flange.
One hole is small, approx 3/8 to 1/2"
the other is larger, approx 1" oval.

Third photo is my idea of inserting a copper sleeve.

I am thinking either copper sleeve with epoxy or lead roof flashing or even auto body fiberglass because glass lasts for years and not too hard to install.

Last resort is tear up the floor or break into a wall.

Thank you.

it is possible that a flange like this will work ..

lather it up with bowl wax and push it in..
cut off the top and stack 2 rubbers if that can happen.
no guarantees..
just something to try so as not to break up that nice tile..

ditto


i would slather-up the rubber with wax AND put a wax ring under the new flange on top of the original flange


warm the wax to 'body temperature' and squish the assembly into place


when setting toilet use long bolts through original flange and a xta-thick wax ring squishing down well


good luck

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

the reason i said cut off the flange is because he has an offset flange installed so keeping the top of the flange will lose him the offset.
so, this is not super-duper great but it does create an inserted sleeve with rubber between the sleeve and the lead.
rube goldberg would be proud of this out of the ordinary repair.

gotcha



==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

quote; cut off the top and stack 2 rubbers

Does that mean what I think it means?

Recommended recommended a treatment or repair using a substance such as epoxy like J-B Weld. It tends to be pretty durable.
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