Hello --
I have a question on whether to use oakum and lead wool or oakum and molten wool for this cast iron flange. I drilled it out and repaired the floor and now I am ready to install it again.
Thanks

and

lead wool will work fine..
after you drive the lead wool solid, heat it a tiny bit and melt some bowlwax into any tiny crevices.
don't forget to secure the flange with stainless screws as it won't be as strong as a poured joint.

I would go with the poured joint for the reasons Packy suggested.

lead wool is just fine

actually preferred if only doing one joint in an accessible position


now, for education purposes:

forget the top heat and wax

the purpose of the lead is to hold the Oakum in place and stabilize/connect the piping, NOT create a seal

ergo: pack pack pack the Oakum to the proper depth



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

i suggested the 'top heat and wax' just because the homeowner may not have the packing iron for the oakum layer so a little extra help may be needed.
don't you remember using a candle rubbed over the lead before it cooled?

For wiped joints, but they did not have oakum underneath it.

packy,

if you need to 'candle' the lead you are 'rube goldberging' an improper joint



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

bernbeau... there is a big difference between packing and pouring a nice new joint with heavy tar factory installed on fittings and pipe. as opposed to making a repair on an existing decades old system.
i have done my fair share of 'new' work but i have also had years of repairing leaking systems.
there are times when you have to throw away the big unions playbook and make due with what you can..

...... then use a 'siliconed' donut ......


ps. the union 'playbook' is merely good practice / proper workmanship

pps. if the 'installer' has not the proper tools or materials then the 'installer' should NOT be installing




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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Thanks for the excellent advice. I should add that the top of the pipe is a good 2.5" below the flange, so I am going to have a bit of a gap when I seal the toilet. I want to make sure the oakum and lead will seal properly

you should have plenty of height to make a good oakum/lead joint.
if pouring lead there should be 1 inch space above the oakum. (1 inch of lead)
the oakum needs to be packed very tightly.
i don't know about lead wool needed space..
you should be fine..

the dimensions are the same for 'wool' and 'poured'

'wool' is more work per joint BUT saves having to melt a pot of lead


PACK THE OAKUM TIGHT

THE OAKUM IS WHAT MAKES THE SEAL

The lead packs and holds the oakum in place

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Will definitely make sure the oakum is packed tight..The flange is tapered a bit towards the bottom but is in fact open so I am going to take advantage of the tapered design..

That taper is going to create a problem for you. It makes the flange opening almost too large for a wax seal to sit on the flange. Good practice would be to cut a piece of pipe the size of the recess and put it on top of the drain pipe. Center it in the flange and secure it with "something", such as cement, (it does not have to create a watertight seal), so the wax ring has something to sit on.

hj is right, we used to call that piece of 4" cast iron a "Dutchman".

still do to those in the trade, I considered it, but decided it might be TMI for a newbie.



Edited 1 times.

There seems to be a "dutchman" in every construction related trade.

I'm a "Dutchman", having been born in the Netherlands (aka; "Holland" ). We immigrated to the US when I was ten years old.



Edited 1 times.

You must have three pieces !

In NYC circa 1970 a 'dutchman' was using 3 pieces of hubbed CI to make a repair w/o moving existing with ALL joints packed & poured.

Necessary when working in 'tight spaces'.



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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638