Over 698,000 strictly plumbing related posts
Plumbing education, information, advice, help and suggestions are provided by some of the most experienced plumbers who wish to "give back" to society. Since 1996 we have been the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice site. If you have questions about plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, drains, sewers, water filters, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, and other strictly PLUMBING related issues then you've come to the right place. Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, or pricing, or where to purchase products, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups and we don't tract you. We absolutely do not sell your personal information. We are made possible by:
Author:
jobster (IL)
There is a leak in the joint between the female copper fitting and the P-trap (shower drain).
The floor of the shower is tiled so I can't alter the connection from above. I was planning on cutting out the copper beyond the trap and replacing with PVC but it will be extremely tight to get a PVC trap in there.
Would it be possible to flux and re-solder the faulty joint so close to the male PVC fitting? I'm guessing that heating up that joint will soften/warp the PVC but not sure if this will necessarily cause a failure in the joint.
Looks like they used plenty of thread sealant.
Any suggestions welcomed - thanks.
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
forget it,, it will never work..
best bet would be to cut below the female adapter, unscrew it from the pvc and get it all patched back up with a rubber fernco..
sliding the fernco over the cast brass trap inlet should work,,
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
srloren (CA)
In order to do what Packy suggests, after making the cut, you may have to remove the drain tailpiece that connects to the sink.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
jobster (IL)
Thanks for the reality check - I figured that trying to re-solder that joint would be a crapshoot. I also thought about trying to use a fernco type coupling, but not sure if it would make a proper seal due the difference in O.D. of the brass trap and the PVC tailpiece I'd have to extend. Not to mention blobs of old solder...
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
packy (MA)
i think if you use the all rubber fernco you will be fine...
get the lower end over the cast brass inlet of the trap as it has a larger outside diameter.
|
Post Reply
|
Please note:
- Inappropriate messages or blatant advertising will be deleted. We cannot be held responsible for bad or inadequate advice.
- Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages posted here. Please follow external links with caution.
- Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing related advice and NOT to ask about pricing/costs, nor where to find a product (try Google), nor how to operate or promote a business, nor for ethics (law) and the like questions.
- Plbg.com is also not a place to ask radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical or even general construction type questions. We are exclusively for plumbing questions.
Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:
Special thanks to our sponsor:
|