I'm looking for suggestions on the best way to extend this drain horizontally about 3-4 inches, to line up with a new sink.


The left end of the P trap appears to be glued in. Should I cut that glued joint off, and add the extension there? If so, what type of connection should I use to put in the horizontal extension PVC pipe? Should I glue the left side in again or use something that is more adjustable in the future?

Thanks much for your help!

I would try unscrewing the trap, and then on the remaining trap outlet, I would use a Dremel to very carefully cut a few perpendicular notches into the bell end of the trap outlet, without damaging the pipe nipple underneath. Then I would use a heat gun to soften up the trap outlet and see if I could peel it off.

If that wouldn't work, I would try something like a Ram Bit to get that very short nipple out of the next fitting down the line.

[www.plumbingsupply.com]

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Links to the State of Wisconsin Plumbing Code:
[docs.legis.wisconsin.gov]
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I am not a plumber.
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Cut the trap on the horizontal exactly at the edge of the hub where it turns down to create the trap. Not at the edge of the hub. Read this again and ask questions if unclear. You are then going to cut through the hub being careful not to cut the pipe so you can install a no hub coupling or an ABS glued coupling to extend the trap arm to glue on a new adjustable trap to fit into the basin tail piece. It is an easy job, just be careful with the cuts. To peal the hub from the pipe, looking at the end of the existing trap arm actually looking inside the pipe, you will cut through the hub only and with a sharp screw driver split the hub from the pipe using a ball pin hammer. The hub will peel right off and you can glue the coupling on. Again, after reading, ask questions before you begin. Go here for picture. [i.postimg.cc]



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Thanks both of you for the valuable advice! When going with cutting off the hub method, I have a few questions:

* Is that easier to do (cutting off the hub) than to use a 1-1/2"reamer bit, which my local Menards has for $5? If it is easier to cut the hub off, I do have a flush cut oscillating tool just like a Dremel Multi Max. Would that work well to cut the hub?

* How exactly do you use a ball peen hammer to hit the screwdriver to split the hub after I have a slot cut in the hub?

* The no hub coupling you're recommending is the metal piece with the rubber on the inside and the two hose clamps, right? Why is that or an ABS glued coupler recommended over a regular PVC coupler? Just curious.

* For the 90* fitting that I'm cutting, what do you call that so I can get a replacement? Is that just a regular 90 degree fitting, glued on one end and threaded on the other?

Thanks much for the advice!



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go with the reamer bit..
then all other questions are superfluous.

Answers to questions:

* Is that easier to do (cutting off the hub) than to use a 1-1/2"reamer bit, which my local Menards has for $5? If it is easier to cut the hub off, I do have a flush cut oscillating tool just like a Dremel Multi Max. Would that work well to cut the hub?

I have never used the method Packy describes, but I trust his answers to plumbing questions..

* How exactly do you use a ball peen hammer to hit the screwdriver to split the hub after I have a slot cut in the hub?

You would place the tip of the screw driver on the seam of the fitting/pipe and tap lightly to moderately heavy.

* The no hub coupling you're recommending is the metal piece with the rubber on the inside and the two hose clamps, right?


Yes

Why is that or an ABS glued coupler recommended over a regular PVC coupler? Just curious.

It may not be better if you wanted to take it apart to snake it. It would be better to take Packy's advice, I just presented another option.

* For the 90* fitting that I'm cutting, what do you call that so I can get a replacement? Is that just a regular 90 degree fitting, glued on one end and threaded on the other?

You are replacing it with a coupling not a 90

Thanks much for the advice!



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Thanks again, everyone, for all the tips and advice. Used the reamer bit and it worked pretty well, but takes a little practice to get that reamer going in straight and to get the depth just right. I have room for improvement but the extension is in the drain is working and, best of all, no leaks!



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