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Author:
Jeff L (CA)
Decades ago I had a toilet with a 14" rough-in. Over the years it's been replaced with 12" rough-in toilets. I'm about to get a bathroom renovation, and I'd like to know if there is any downside of having an offset flange installed to move the toilet back. Downside meaning, is there a danger of it clogging?
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Author:
srloren (CA)
Consider installing a 14" rough in toilet. The newer toilets use less water and will give you fewer problems providing you have proper grade on your waste lines. I would not recommend the extremely low flush toilets and DON'T install HomeDepot House brand, you would be buying trouble. Take care...
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Author:
packy (MA)
first of all... i (and most here) feel TOTO is the best toilet on the market..
you can choose a TOTO toilet that utilizes the unifit adapter. they make different sizes so it will solve your problem.
that is one solution..
also, as my friend from CA suggests, just use a 14 inch rough toilet.
or if you want to use a 12 inch toilet tnen an offset flange will gain you approximately 1 1/4 inches. properly installed, there is no downside to using an offset flange.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
quote"=; there is no downside to using an offset flange.
There is no downside IF you use the proper offset flange. The "proper" one will have a circular opening, the "bad" one will have an oval opening and can cause stoppages.
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Author:
LI Guy (IN)
If you have enough access to change the regular flange to an offset flange, why not just move the regular flange back to the a 12" rough in?
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Not a plumber by trade but a fierce DIYer
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Author:
Jeff L (CA)
Thanks for the replies. I'd really like to keep the toilet I have. It's a St. Thomas Creations which has worked very well. I thought it might be a bigger job to move the rough-in. I'll bring it up with our contractor.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Spoken by someone who has obviously NEVER done it before.
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Author:
LI Guy (IN)
I was thinking PVC pipe....if you have to open the subfloor to cut off the flange and glue on an offset flange, just open the floor a little more and glue a regular flange at the 12" mark. Copper or CI, just boot it with a fernco. I have moved a few (literally 3) toilet flanges in my life, so I don't know everything there is to know on the subject, if there's more please add your thoughts.
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Not a plumber by trade but a fierce DIYer
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Author:
sum (FL)
LI Guy my first thought is if 12" rough was feasible it would have been done originally? Not sure. If there is a basement under with exposed framing then the question can be easily answered.
My guess is unless the toilet drain runs in the same direction as the 2" adjustment, in that case it's either cutting off 2" or extending 2". If no sub floor framing or other utilities in the way then it's not a big deal.
However if the drain runs in a direction perpendicular to, or at an odd angle to the 2" adjustment, or there are framing restrictions and other obstacles, then it's a different story. We are on slab foundation with no basement so most times you don't even know what options are there until the slab is cut open and excavated.
Edited 1 times.
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Author:
LI Guy (IN)
Good points sum!
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Not a plumber by trade but a fierce DIYer
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