Thanks guys for your input in the thread a little ways down on the page - got the new gas line ran today. Heres some pics of the final product. Read the fuel gas code book and installed it to code. No leaks, no issues beside sore knees.

Meter before/after



Water heater before/after



Pics of Tees under crawl to appliances



New range hookup


Thanks again guys

if you tested the joints with dishwasher or laundry soap, rinse them well with plain water.something in the detergents attacks the stainless steel tubing and can cause problems in a few years..
i would have used a couple more talons to hang it but otherwise it looks very good to me..
the floor termination for the stove is perfect..
good job..
P/S, plumbing and bad knees are synonymous terms..

I ran out of talons - I thought I bought enough but came up a few short. I did use soap so I will rinse them when I correct a couple unrelated issues in the crawl. I need some better strapping for the regulator assembly on the water heater too.

I still play ice hockey goalie so yeah hips and knees have more mileage on them then most but I need some knee pads - that gravel is killer

I've been doing some reading on CSST since I'm not familiar with that material for gas work. Looks like a big improvement over black pipe since you only have fittings at the ends of the runs, not every time the pipe changes direction. Although when we had our gas service brought in last year, the plumber used black pipe, not sure if local code requires it or he just didn't like CSST...

In your pics, I don't see any electrical bonding clamp at the meter. The first thing that pops up in a search on CSST is to be sure it's electrically bonded (grounded). Since you can't attach a bonding clamp directly to the CSST, they say to attach it to a section of hard pipe BEFORE the first section of CSST, which in your case would be at the meter. [www.csstsafety.com] [www.youtube.com]

Apparently CSST is susceptible to damage from nearby lightning strikes which could case it to leak. Grounding the system is supposed to prevent that. You should already have a bonding lead from the panel box to a cold water pipe, you should be able to just extend that over to the gas meter.

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Not a plumber by trade but a fierce DIYer



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I'd rather have black pipe tbh but I guess that is "old school" now. Same with copper water pipe

Its bonded, at the last Tee in the run. 6 ga to the electrical panel grounding block. My main panel is technically a sub panel - theres a 100a breaker outside off the meter that feeds it but it was the only way I could reasonably bond it without driving a new rod somewhere. In one of the pics you can see it

better pic of bonding clamp:




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I'm an old-school old guy too. No one will ever put a nail thru my gas pipe and I could do chin-ups on it if I were so inclined.

Jcrevz, sorry I missed that in the pics in your original post, I just wanted to mention it in case you weren't aware that bonding was needed. Seems contrary that flexible gas tubing is allowed for in-wall use when drywall is hung with screw guns and trim work is all done with pneumatic nailers. But I guess that's better than having elbows and joints in the walls. CSST sure works great in the crawlspace where it's out of harm's way.

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Not a plumber by trade but a fierce DIYer

No worries, I did it “by the book” to keep it safe or in the event I sell the house and you are correct, bonding is a requirement. Its good to have feedback in case I missed something.