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Author:
Spark (PA)
I have a 1950s Crane bathtub with hot and cold faucets that have Dial-ese stems in them. There is no seat for these (they're "self-contained", but there is a 2 3/16" "stop" or seat extension that is screwed inside the wall pipe. I need to get it out because it's corroded from years of hard water.
Does anyone have the tool/wrench for this, or know how I can unscrew it?
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Author:
stuckinlodi (MO)
Would a seat wrench remove it? Could try squirting some vinegar on the limescale first, to remove or weaken it.
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Author:
Spark (PA)
Thanks, but no -- the threaded end is on the far side of this thing. I did lube it with WD40 ahead of time and tried to get it, but it's over 2 inches long.
If you go to plumbing zone dot com and look up "Crane dial ese seats" topic, you will see pics in that thread. Sorry, I can't link to it.
I'm positive it's a Dial ese stem -- changed them many times, but now the brass 'stop' (which is a separate piece) has a nick in it.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
Links do not work, but if it is really a Dial-Eze stem you have to loosen the big locknut first and then the stem unscrews. Both nuts have "flattened O" shape so they need special tools to loosen them if you cannot use a Crescent wrench.
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Author:
Spark (PA)
Please see my edit above. A google search will pull it up easier.
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Author:
stuckinlodi (MO)
Is that what you are dealing with?
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Author:
marlinman (FL)
Dial-ese body extensions have several lengths and designs. The longer one in the photos takes a 1/2 hex wrench and the smaller one takes a 11/32 hex wrench. I also see some of these with only 2 tabs protruding inward and can be removed in most cases with a flat bar. Sometime a easy out can be used. I would find a source for replacements for these before trying to remove them. Good Luck!
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Author:
Spark (PA)
The 'stop' I have is similar to the very first picture -- there's no hex to grab on to, but there are two slightly raised areas inside -- at 3 and 9 o'clock. It is tucked back inside the pipe, and measures 2 3/16" long. I'm not sure how to get it unscrewed. I think that you're telling me to use a flat seat wrench, correct? If so, did kind of try, but didn't get a good grip on it. Or, is it something else, like a large flat screwdriver, perhaps?
I did find the part, which is being shipped to me in a day or two.
The stem is the one in the previous reply to me.
Thank you to both of you for getting me this far!
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Author:
Spark (PA)
We got the 'stop' out! My friend used a 5/8" flat screwdriver with a long handle and a channel lock to help steady.
THANK YOU all!
This is a great site.
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Author:
marlinman (FL)
Check to make sure you have the correct length replacement. If this is correct then you must use a high quality pipe thread compound or teflon paste on the threads. The Hex replacement make no difference. These extensions have a coarse running thread so without proper sealant water just runs through the threads and the valve will not turn off.From the part #'s you mentioned you are installing Chinese replacement parts.The OEM part # is Hot FB8172 (No Lead # FB8552NL) and Cold FB8173 (No lead FB8553NL). These domestic stem units are available at real plumbing parts supply warehouses or you can google these numbers. First try the thread sealing compound.Best of luck.
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Author:
Spark (PA)
Thanks.
Yes, had double checked the length on the extension replacement and Rectorseal was recommended for the threads, which we used (Rectorseal Tplus2.)
Have used the "Chinese" stems in the past (that's all the stores here have; plumbing stores don't have any), but I appreciate the part numbers for the good ones. Have more than one of the Crane fixtures in my 1950s ranch.
If anyone finds a part number for the extension, it would be good to have.
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Author:
Spark (PA)
We took the new extension out this morning. Used 1/2" cold chisel this time. There was some of the pipe thread sealant on the threads, but not all. So we coated it up well, put it back in, even tried another stem, but no luck.
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Author:
Spark (PA)
marlinman,
Does the pipe threading sealant you use need to set overnight, or can you use it right away?
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Author:
stuckinlodi (MO)
What about installing a new faucet and controls, can that be done?
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Author:
Spark (PA)
I hope to have the bathroom remodeled in the near future, so am trying to avoid spending money on what I'm unsure of keeping. Hoping to buy some time until then.
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Author:
Spark (PA)
YIPPEE again!
Removed the extension again. The goop was partly gone again. Cleaned it up, wrapped real nice in Teflon tape,
siliconed the three rubber parts on the stem, then re-inserted both, tightened the metal nuts really well, said a quick prayer... and it was back working when I turned on the water!
There's still a drop of water every 10 seconds or so, but this should hold me over until I can have the bathroom remodeled.
Thank you all so much!
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