We just bought an older house that had the bathroom remodeled and when I went to clean the tub a small amount of water started coming out of the shower head. Some quick googling pointed to the tub faucet so I tried to remove it, but couldn't unscrew it and found that it's attached to a Pex pipe they ran through the wall instead of steel or copper and as i turned the faucet, the Pex just turned with it. Some more googling found that a metal pipe should have been used and the difference in diameter could be causing restriction causing the water to back up to the shower. I went to Home Depot and explained the situation to their "plumbing guy" and showed him some pics. He told me he thought I just needed to lower the water pressure and that he didn't think the pipe diameter would make a difference. I measured the pressure and it's 75 PSI which doesn't seem that high based on what I've read. I found this forum and was hoping you guys could give me some advice. This pic is of the valve and faucet plumbing from behind the wall. Fortunately I have access from a bedroom closet without needing to cut into the wall.

There is a reason the smock man works in the store and doesn't work in plumbing. You will need to cut and remove the red 1/2 pex that feeds the tub spout and remove all of it from the bottom outlet of the tub spout from the fitting down. Your best bet would be to solder copper in for the tub spout. If you choose copper, you will want to shut the water down and disconnect the hot, cold, and shower connections, and remove the cartridge from the valve before sweating the pipes or you can damage the plastic.

You will need to remove that pex and replace with copper or brass. I'd probably use brass, all you'll need is a coupling, a 90, and a couple of nipples.

If you solder it, the water in the pipes will keep the valve parts from overheating. THere is no reason to use a "T" for the spout, but you might want to anchor the new elbow to the wall, "somehow".

the inside diameter of the PEX is limited to the inside diameter of the 'barb' fittings

way too small and will make back pressure sending water to shower head

you will need to 'hard pipe' to tub spout 'full bore'

if valve body is 'tapped' use 2 brass nipples and a brass elbow

however

the nipples would need to be measured and cut precisely (unless you get real lucky with stock lengths)

or

start soldering copper tube and fittings

or

call a plumber



TEST EVERYTHING BEFORE CLOSING UP

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

either the photo is reversed or the plumber used blue pex for the hot and red for the cold.
it makes no difference but it is just strange??

What would you expect from someone who uses PEX, and a "capped tee" for the spout, without any "strapping"?

There also isn't any backer behind the tile. Given a little time the whole thing will fall in anyhow. Moisture will make the wood swell and the tiles will pop off. I think the black drywall spacer is supposed to be removed before installing the cartridge too, but at least it will be there for the remodel.

I think he is clamping the surround wall between the "spacer" and the trim plate.

I was referring primarily to the area around the blue pex. There is tile that is unsupported, unmortared, no backing of any sort. If it isn't there, it isn't anywhere on the valve side of the shower at least, so moisture will be an issue at some point.

thanks for the help everybody. i was pretty sure he was wrong.



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