OK so here's my problem. I'm tring to replace a toilet in my basement, and I can't seem to find a new toilet that fits. I'm told that this setup is an 8" rough in. No one seems to sell 8" rough in toilets, at least not that I can find. The toilet I took out is a pretty basic piece that has ProFlo printed behind the toilet seat. My house isn't even five years old, so there's obviously somebody out there still selling these toilets. I keep hearing that they haven't been made for 40+ years, but I own evidence to the contrary. Basicallly, I'm looking to either buy a new toilet that fits, or if a 10" or 12" can be adapted to my plumbing, I'm open to that as well.



Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.



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ProFlow = Ferguson Plumbing..... isn't it?

Best Wishes

If your measuring tape in the photo is being held level (not sloped down from the wall onto the flange) you have aprox 9-1/4 inch to the center of the flange. Piping measurements are taken center to center.

look up Toto unifit on google.
do some careful measuring and look at their specs.
it might fit ???
you may have to cut away some of the baseboard...

As per your tape measurement:

Your actual 'rough in' = 9.25" (finished wall to center of pipe)

(probably a 'missed' 10"


Depending on actual clearances required you may be able to use a 10" toilet.

eg. 10" rough with 1" clearance behind tank would give YOU 1/4" clearance

for example only: [www.us.kohler.com] would fit flush with finished wall on your 'rough in'


you may be able to install an offset flange to obtain a proper 10"+ rough in

standard 'roughs' are 10 ~ 12 ~ 14 (12 will give the most choice of bowls)

see: [www.proflo.com] ~ sold through Ferguson Supply ~ you may need to see them direct to find a model which 'happens' to fit your improper roughing

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 2 times.

While you are at this consider checking the size of the pipe attached. It appears a little bigger than 2". Maybe time for upgrade to 3" and fix two problems at once.

I think the Toto Unifit is for 10", 12", 14".

I bet it was meant to be a 10" rough in but whoever did it measured from the stud face and not finished wall.

DOH

or did not 'allow' for the finished wall

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

It looks like 3 issues that I see. The flange is a inside 3" flange that can't pass a bladed cable if required. The flange appears to be below the grade of the tile. I looks like the rough in didn't allow for the finished wall. I think you would be better served by not having a toilet in that space at all until some competent people are doing the work. Your assumption that because your house is less than 5 years old that it was built correctly seems to be a flawed theory at best.



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KCRoto,

unfortunately it appears 'par for the course' in todays land of the mcmansion

imo: the only way a typical 'workin' man' can afford 4 bed rooms with 3.5 baths is if it is built like crap using junk

a QUALITY bath or kitchen should last DECADES before the nightmare 'never stop improving' begins

in the past, they actually did last ~ but let's 'tear em out' and join the DIY club

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Unfortunately, it is becoming all too common that diyers and 'pros' are cobbling the same junk together in the same haphazard and careless fashion and it really rubs me the wrong way. I appreciate that homeowners want to improve their home, I really do.. but never with such shoddy construction practices. I suspect that there is more wrong with this bathroom than just the stool. The crooked urinal thread is another example.. if you see the drywall in the wall cavity by the urinal drain it was installed without any support at the corner at all. None of the water or drain lines had nail strike plates up at the time of the pictures, and there wouldn't have been a problem if a 2x6 wall had been used, tile behind the urinal, etc. end of rant.

DITTO


unfortunately



==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Good Rant... I enjoyed it..

While I agree there is more and more DIYer doing home improvement that is less than desirable or even unsafe, I would also say the fault is not all on DIYers.

I think nowadays, compared to say 40 years ago, there are more pros who are nothing more than pretenders. May be it's too easy for a DIYer to just watch a few youtube videos and buy a van and put on a logo to drive around to call themselves a "PRO". The quality of pros have eroded.

I never wanted to do my own plumbing. I used to hire out and posted pics here to get feedbacks and reinforcement on work done at my house by pros, and each and every time I got disappointing feedback. I had one job where I fired plumber 2 to correct plumber 1's work, then plumber 3 to correct plumber 2, then I tore all of it off and redid it. I came to realize that the plumbers here contributing on this site are probably 1 in a 1000, and years later I am still looking. I have hired national chains, local owner/operators, doesn't matter, I am getting inferior workmanship even if I don't mind to pay a premium. I am convinced that there is no longer any pride of workmanship...I just wonder how many DIYers are forced to be DIYers because they couldn't find quality pros like me.

Look at the pics OP posted. That's a 5 year old house, built by a "pro", that wasn't a DIYer house.



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you are 100% correct

today, most homes are built to minimum code

previously (in a land long ago and far far away) they were built to specifications (which generally far exceeded code MINIMUM)

material, fixtures, and 'trim' were SPECIFIED instead of being left to the contractor's discretion

builders actually checked the construction as is went along

many people actually had an architect to 'bird-dog' their home's progress



aaaaaah ..... progress

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

quote; previously (in a land long ago and far far away) they were built to specifications (which generally far exceeded code MINIMUM)

And even now when there are specifications, the builder and contractor do "value engineering" to see if they can modify them to do it cheaper.

hj, the "value engineering" is being done all the time while the job is in the middle of being executed, by people who has no business doing value engineering.

I had an AC tech that came to replace my AC handler in the attic, and I warned him to measure the attic truss spacing carefully to make sure he has the room to slide the new AC handler in place. I told him specifically before he did it, that he is free to tear open any ceiling sheetrock, or cut away furring strips in the ceiling if necessary, but no notching or cutting of joists and truss members.

He called me two weeks later and told me the new air handler was in place and working, and oh by the way I had to cut two of your trusses.

I was beyond furious. He said no worries, house is still standing, rock solid, no problem amigo.

So I called up a framing and structural co to come take a look, they told me they will have to fix the trusses in place and have to use gusset plates to restore the same properties. Sounds good.

A couple of days later they came to do the job, the on site carpenter or whoever, put in a whole bunch of scrap 2X4s to sister the cut openings, and with drywall screws. I asked him why he didn't do what I was quoted for, he said "this is actually better, rock solid..." I said no, this is a truss, it needs to be repaired the way it was speced, and I don't want any drywall screws, and you better talk to the guy who came to give me the estimate, because I value your value engineering at zero dollar.



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...presumably the A/C 'guy' has NOT been paid...

...if paid, why?

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

"...presumably the A/C 'guy' has NOT been paid...

...if paid, why?"

Yes I paid them.

I paid a lot of people who cheated me. One plumber I hired to relocate a manifold end up kinking the copper pipe but decided to cover it with some sleeves and put dirt back into the hole so I wouldn't see it.

Yes I can refuse to pay. But the way I look at it, if you are cheating me, especially those who knew what they were doing and decided to take short cuts or let the next guy deal with it, for me as soon as I know I want to just pay you and get you out of my sight. I don't want to deal with cheats, I don't even want to bargain with them, argue with them, I just pay them and get rid of them without wanting to waste another second on people like that. Now if it's a genuine mistake I might tolerate it.

May be it doesn't make sense to pay them because I am "rewarding" them for doing terrible work, but I do my job the right way and I have no patience for people who scams and cheats.

you are not 'rewarding them'

however

you ARE 'enabling them'

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638