I am installing a RO system under a bathroom sink to run water to my refrigerator. The kitchen sink is not practical since it is against a red brick wall and sitting on a concrete slab.

I have been told I need to install an air-gap for the RO system, is this true? I am planning on running the line that would go to the faucet to the refrigerator, so I will have no faucet. If I need to install an air-gap how should I do it since I have no penetration through the bath room sink for the vent. I have looked and cannot find a prefabricated one.

The rest seems to be quite simple and straight forward. I plan on using 3/8 high pressure poly to run the RO water to the refrigerator, which has plastic tubing to receive the water.

Thank you for your help,

grey
Somebody please help me with this.

Most are built into the RO faucet and mount through the countertop next to the sink.

most installations are at the kitchen sink w/ a RO faucet...the airgap is part of the faucet...thats the normal way

your looking for a un-normal way....

there may be no legal way to do it...unless they make a airgap (like a dw airgap) for RO's? or you can rig a Dishwasher airgap for your RO...

or you could just add a RO faucet to your bath sink and be done with it.

[www.airgap.com]

if you have a dishwasher:


[www.plumbingsupply.com]

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 2 times.

quote; if you have a dishwasher:

Not likely to have one of those in the bathroom where he is putting the RO unit.

while the ro is in the bathroom, i doubt that is where the fridge is located

if he can run the water line to the fridge (presumably in the kitchen), he can run the ro waste to the kitchen

i simply gave the op the available options

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

My problem is that the wall behind the kitchen sink is red brick, plus the floor is a concrete slab. With the slope of the roof it is not practical to get any line to or from the kitchen sink to the refrigerator. To run water to the frig I would have to cut 8' of plaster wall. Rather not do that.

The bathroom is adjacent to the heater room (Includes hot water heater also) so with a simply wall penetration could get a line in there, but no drain available.

RO water is over-rated. A high quality in-line taste/odor/chemical filter is more than adequate for the fridge.

Quote

.....under a bathroom sink to run water to my refrigerator.

i assume you can get from the RO under the lavatory to the fridge, but, can't get to the kitchen sink from either lav or fridge

then .... the airgap for the RO drain MUST be on the lav drain .... the fitting will appear similar to a dishwasher gap but will have the connections for RO tubing .... will mount on your lav cabinet / basin .... there are 3 lines involved: a) from RO to fridge, b) from RO to airgap c) from airgap to drain

see the first pic and link to a source in my first answer

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

quote; if he can run the water line to the fridge (presumably in the kitchen), he can run the ro waste to the kitchen

If that were true, then he would NOT have to install the RO unit in the bathroom. HE is doing it because he CANNOT run a water line, and thus a drain line, to, or from, the sink.

Where is the clothes washer? If that is accessible, you could hang the RO drain over its trap riser.

isnt there a floor drain in your water heater room?/???

id put the RO in there and run it to the floor drain...here in WI you MUST have a floor drain in a room with a WH

here, it almost NEVER happens. And, since he is "here" I assume he also does not have one.



Edited 1 times.

evidently he CAN get from the bath to the fridge

but

not from the bath to the kitchen sink
or
from the fridge to the kitchen sink

so

he can run the drinking water from the RO to the fridge, but, must have the A/G for the drain local to the RO unit

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638



Edited 1 times.

I can use the the Kit - SC on [www.airgap.com] I can hang it in the heater room and run the lines to the drain to the bathroom sink drain. I just need to figure out where to buy one here. Funny, the place that sells and installs them did not tell me about this device and told me they did not know of any such device. Seems to be a common problem in this city. Thanks for the info, I'll let you know how it progresses.

How high do I need to mount the wall mounted unit? Does it have to be higher then the highest valve, the ice maker in this case?

As to the question of the drain in the heater room. I do not have one and I do not know of a home here in the Arizona desert that has one and I have been in quiet a few heater rooms.

Our water here is pretty bad and just a carbon filter alone does not do enough to make the water palatable.



Edited 2 times.

if attaching under your bath sink: higher than the 'flood level' of the sink

you could also, if practical, just dump the waste water from the RO outside:

air gapped into dry well

no air gap onto ground / ABOVE grade by 6"

==============================================

"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

Don't know how old this post is, but if you are still looking for answers, if you are running the waste line to a floor drain you DO NOT need an air gap. An air gap is used primarily for instances where you are running to a sink drain, there is a possibility of the drain backing up to where the line connects to it, and there is a possibility of a vacuum forming from the RO unit (usually because you are drawing water at the same time the drain is backed up).

If you are running to a free-standing floor drain, there is little chance of that happening, since, first, your floor drain would be backing up and second, any vacuum that is formed is likely not going to be strong enough to pull water back to the RO. Just do not put the waste line down into the drain. They make 90-degree fittings with clips to clip to standard floor drains. You don't want your line to go more than a 1/2" or so into the drain.

I am still trying to figure this out due to illness and other complications and interruptions. There is no floor drain available period! The house has concrete floor with brick stem walls. So access outside underground is impossible.

My access to the refrigerator from the bathroom sink is up within the wall by the bathroom sink or through the heater room (next to bathroom.) Lateral travel across the house to the kitchen would be in the crawl space (30" tall, not tall enough to call it an attic) to the wall behind the refrigerator. Then the piping will travel down the inside of the wall penetrating the plaster board behind the refrigerator allowing me to attach to the refrigerator.


grey Feb 2014