I am looking to replace my old trip lever and drain. Not the drain pipe parts that run behind the tub, just the "trim" pieces that show. I understand normally one would remove the old drain first and measure it and go to a hardware store to match it up to a new one if size was a question, but I can't do that right now because of medical reasons. Because I dont want the old one taken out untill Im sure theres a replacement here to put in, I'm having a hard time trying to figure out which size I'll need. Since I cant measure the pipe under the drain yet, I unscrewed the trip lever handle and removed it. I then measured the inside width of that pipe that runs down and it was 1 1/2 inch wide (inside). Could I assume that the pipe would also be the same 1 1/2 inch down under the drain as well. The only other measurements I do know is the the outside ring from the tub basket that sits on fiberglass is exactly 3 inches across, and it has a removable 3 prong grid in the center that measures exactly 1 5/8. I also see they come on fine and coarse thread? Any ideas? or should I be looking for a universal type fit? Any feedback would be appreciated.



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You can purchase a new plate with spring loaded lever. It comes with a brass cotter pin. You can also purchase new rods and plunger but you need brand and model for these.

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Retired after 50 years of plumbing and heating.

Thank you for responding sir, I dont know the make and model of the old trip lever or drain, and because at some point only a shower and spicket were updated.

If you post a photo we may be able to help identify the make.

The drain plugs are usually identical as far as their diameter is concerned, but while there are two common threads, i.e., large coarse and small fine thread, there are also a plethora of unique threads so the only safe way is to take the old drain out and compare it to new onew.

Here is a link to the photo I took of my old drain, I hope it will work I didnt know how to post a photo on this particular site.

would avoid any change if possible.you are brass dwv thin wall and could develope problems that are very costly to correct.

unfortunatley i cant avoid it. I have a small crack in the bottom of the tub which is also about 40 years old. It is not white and I cant figure out if its a linen, bisque, almond, bone or what, but its really close to white. Anyway, damaged areas need to be repaired, and then I'll have to have the tub refinished so it all matched. If we dont remove the drain, it will not get properly applied to the very edge of the fiberglass under the drain, and it will create a weak point in finish. If I knew what color it was, I might try to do small repairs myself, as long as it matched well.

Here you stand knowing the tub and As I said the drain is on it's last leg.If the coverage will not correct with out drain repair.Get a good service plumber to be sure the new drain can be installed first.It could and may very well need to be replaced below the tub and if no other access is available.the tub is coming out.Hope yours is a replace jb.do not see that.1 1/4"fine thread tubular break even with a soft slit and cut attempt!!!just my two cents.

If I am following correctly, your inquiry about replacing the drain trim is related to another issue involving a crack in the fiberglass tub you are thinking about resurfacing? I would think twice about putting money into an old cracked fiberglass tub vs. a new one. Best Wishes.



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I would proceed very carefully because that drain fitting may NOT come out easily, and it will not be very easy to "cut out" either. I thought they had stopped making drains like that by the time they started producing fiberglass tubs.

I would not repair a 40 yr old fiberglass tub. How much is it going to cost you to repair and refinish that tub? At 40, that fiberglass is getting brittle, and may crack again the day after you put it back in use.The repair, if done correctly will not be where it cracks, and you'll be back to square one.

hj, what is unique about this drain? Nothing seems too out of the ordinary to me from the picture.

Watco makes a cover that snaps down in and over the existing drain. They come in many different colors and look pretty good when installed. That won't help you will the overflow plate though.

When I say crack in the tub, yes there is a crack in the shape of a cirle under the size of a penny. That was due to someone dropping something on that spot. It is a surface crack that is not all the way through and the tub is not leaking. We obviuosly want to seal it up so it doesn't get worse. Because it has aged, we want the repair to match, so figured we'de be better off refinishing it and getting some more use out if it. Other than showing signs of patina in the finish, the tub seems fine. I can only assume that it is about 40 years old because the house was built in 74. Now, if someone did come in a put a new one sometime in the 80's or early 90's I would have no way of knowing that.

*I understand putting money into an older tub might seem foolish. I would rather spend money towards a new tub and surround. The bottom line is unless you know someone who will come here, CUT the old one peice fiberglass tub into pieces so it can be hauled out of here without busting walls down, and then put a new tub in with a surround in for less than $1000.00, then I guess I won't be getting a new tub put in right now. I have to do what I can afford as far as maintence. And right now I cant afford anything over 1000. At thevery cheapest I found a tub online at lowes for around 300.00, add the cost of the surround (i'm ballparking 200-300, that leaves me with 400.00 to pay someone for a removal in install of the new.

your assuming that you'll get the drain apart...you may not

when i replace them i dont even try unthreading them anymore(unless they are 10 years old or less)

i get under the tub and cut them out

most drains are common sizes...any plumber could take care of it for you

as a homeowner i think you'll damage the tub or break the drain getting it out

I will probably call a plumber after reading all the warnings, but how would the plumber get under the tub? we are on a crawlspace, is that kind of stuff accessable from a crawlspace?

That heavy casting with the round bar across it, is something I would have expected to see in the 20's and 30's, NOT the 70's when they used thin metal ones with cross bars, which were easy to notch with a hacksaw blade, and take out.

I have NEVER went "under the tub" and cut the drain out. To me, it is easier just to cut the drain "plug" out. The only reason for going "under the tub" would be to replace the entire drain AFTER the plug was removed.

i see this type all the time on houses built up into the '70's

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

2 ways to cut the drain out

cut from under it...a sawsall blade right under the drain where the rubber washer is

or

make pie cuts from on top and risk the sawsall blade skipping across the tub(just happened badly to me a few weeks ago)

its a job that calls for experience...probably 1.5 hours for a plumber

i doubt it just unthreads

I agree. I have never had to cut it out from under the tub. I just cut it out CAREFULLY with a sawzall