Problem #1 Live in the house that Jack built. His last name starts with A.

Problem #2 I'm dumb and can't measure:
I have about 2" of a brass fitting sticking up out of the floor at the front right corner of where the dishwasher will sit, which is the water line for the dishwasher. Even after measuring, I can't tell if it's 3/4", 7/8" or 1" MIP (not sure if it's straight or tapered). I don't know how to measure fittings. I measured some that I know the size of, and no matter what I measure, OD, ID... it doesn't match up to the tape measure.

Problem #3 The dishwasher inlet and the water line don't even come close to just lining up. And the dishwasher inlet is about 2" or so above the monster fitting.

Problem #4 I need to connect the unknown monster with the dishwasher:
The dishwasher inlet has a 90* elbow 3/4" hose X 3/8" compression followed by the nylon tubing that comes in the kit... 3/8" compression FIP (tapered? Heck if I know.) x 3/8" compression FIP. I can't find any reducers, adapters, with a female threaded on one end and a male threaded on the other end that will join monster - whether it is 3/4, 7/8, 1" - with the 3/8" tubing.

If you can help, you truly will be the wind beneath my wings.
Thank you,
Aundrea

Ok , 1 st you don't want the pipe sticking up thru the floor to line up with the inlet on the dishwasher. 2 nd you don't want to use any nylon tubing for the feed line to the dishwasher. You need a stainless flexible dishwasher line ( sold in kit form ) that includes the fitting to connect the flexible line to the dishwasher. I'd need to know what size the pipe is thats coming up thru the floor to make any reccomendations as far as what type fiting or valve you need there. Is there a valve underneath the floor that turns the water on and off to the pipe thats sticking up?
After rereading your post, I'd bet that a 1/2" threaded angle valve is what you need for the pipe thats coming up thru the floor.



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Will be 1/2" X 3/8" for the line to connect to.




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Do you happen to have any pics to make the diagnosis easier?

I said it wrong, I am using the stainless flexible dishwasher hose from the kit.

I know I have to remove the thread tape from that inlet... hopefully I didn't screw anything up.

The old dishwasher was lined up with the brass pipe sticking out of the floor and connected directly to it. I point it out so you can get an idea of what I'm working with.

Just for comparison, the first two pics are with a 1/2" compression adapter (from the kit)

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These 2 pics are with a 90*elbow 1/2"x3/8" (from the kit)
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this is the 1/2" end on top of the monster fitting
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Thank you all so much for your help. I don't have a choice but to do it myself, and I don't know what I'm doing. Thank you, thank you, thank you.

it looks like all you have to do is connect the flex line to the pipe sticking up out of the floor as i think i see a 1/2" x 3/8" reducer already on the pipe

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

The 1/2x3/8 adapter is just sitting on top to show the relative size of the unknown sized fitting. The unknown sized fitting is a lot bigger than 1/2"... therein the problem. I can't figure out what size it is, and I would just pick up a variety of fittings if I could find anything that had a female threaded on one end x 3/8 male threaded on the other end.

The fitting that is soldered to the top of the copper pipe is half of a union. It needs to be removed, so a fitting that will accept the end of the hose can be installed on the pipe. A 90* fitting will probably need to be soldered to the pipe, so the hose doesn't have to loop up so high.

That is HALF of a brass union, and you will NEVER find anything which will attach to it, other than the other half from another union. You need to have a plumber remove it and make a proper connection.

If you have access to under the floor you can always cut the copper and use a 1/2 x 3/8 straight or angle sharkbite valve. Look at this link and see what I am talking about
[www.cashacme.com]

If it were I, I would cap that line and install a connection in the sink's hot water supply so the dishwasher could be turned off without having to remove the toe kick panel.

But you ARE a plumber hj, while she is not. There is different ways all of us would do it, but we have the experience to do just that.

Cutting the line below if there is access, she can just put the sharkbite valve on and push the supply hose through the existing hole and hook on to the valve.

The 'monster fitting' is 1/2 of a union which is soldered onto nominal 1/2" copper tube (tube will measure 5/8" OD).

This needs to be removed, either by unsoldering it or by carefully cutting the tube below it AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE to fitting edge. (mini tubing cutter or 40 TPI hacksaw blade)

If you cut ..... using 160 grit aluminum oxide or emery paper or 'plumbers roll' sand the solder film off to expose bare clean copper (don't overdo this).

Then you can attach a (angled) 5/8 OD (will fit 1/2 nominal Cu) compression by 3/8 compression stop.

Then you can hook up PROPERLY using the kit.

I am assuming there is a shut-off valve below somewhere!? DOH fitting is 'open'

I'm a jeweler and make hand-wrought jewelry with sterling silver and 14k gold, so I'm good with a blow torch and soldering. I assume it's the same thing, but on a larger scale? Getting it off would be super easy for me, but I'm not sure about getting a proper solder on the new one.

I may just combine some of your ideas and cut off the fitting with a pipe cutter, which I have after installing the icemaker line. And then put the sharkbite on.

Does the sharkbite really just push on? With hand strength? Or do I need a specific tool?

Its just a push on fitting. Very simple to install. Since you have copper cutters, then the cut should be neat.

You guys are so great! Thank you all so much! I've cut the fitting off, sanded off the old solder, and have ordered the sharkbite. Super easy from here, thanks!!

you need to ream the inside of the pipe because it has a sharp edge on it from cutting it otherwise it may be difficult to install the sharkbite properly

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Thank you dlh, is the 160 grit plumbers roll the thing to use, or a de-bur tool? Like a stainless steel brush type de-burer?

your copper tubing cutters might have one on them. It looks like an arrowhead shape piece that rotates out.

Notice the piece sticking out of the back of the cutters

Don't have that, but I get the idea. Thank you!!

Sharkbites go on the "outside" of the pipe, so any "ridge" on the inside is irrelevent.

duh, but the ridge makes it harder to push on and that is all i was saying plus the fact that you are supposed to ream the pipe regardless

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Sharkbites come with an insert stiffner which makes it a little harder to put on. You can take it out or leave it with copper. The stiffner can restrict the flow a little, but should be no concern with this hookup.

pictures are worth a million words.

The stiffener is designed to fit inside PEX, or other plastic lines, so it is MUCH smaller than any ridge on copper tubing. THEREFORE, the ridge will NOT restrict the Sharkbite when you push it on.

then i gues it is just me because it makes all the difference imo

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PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Yes, it is probably just you, because I have never had any problem, although I do not use Sharkbites as a regular "fix". And, I remove the insert when putting them on copper, anyway.



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