I was in the local big box store the other day and they have water soluble flux and then there is a flux with "tin" in it.

Which one is preferred for soldering 1/2 copper pipe?



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just plain old flux is fine for me.

10-4 plain flux for me too.

I'll third that!

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both will work...ive gotten the tin type by mistake a couple of times...everywhere the flux goes it will leave a solder mark...it looks like you were sloppy when its the flux.

When the copper is deburred, cleaned bright and shiny with emory cloth before fluxing, I have had good results with both types. The water soluable is not as messy. In My Humble Opinion.

PS. Now you've done it. Ten thousand plumblers will chime in with soldering advice. This could be another long thread!! LOL

That tinning flux spreads real easy and solder flows quicker. Been using Oatey Tinning Flux for years.

I'll never switch to water based solder; I bet a skid of copper pipe that water based flux was the answer to plumbers misusing the acid base flux that would lead to pipe/joint deterioration.

Hint?

Purple based primer. << Identifier you're doing you job.

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i wouldn't pay the extra money for flux with solder in it.

It is NOT flux with tin in it, it is "tinnng" flux. When it is heated it turns into a form of solder which coats the pipe and fitting with a thin layer of solder so the solder you add just finishes the joint. It is a bit more positive than regular flux, but more expensive. It probably does not make a better joint than a properly prepared one using regular flux. But many years ago, I was on a job out in the boonies and needed to make a solder joint, but ran out of solder. The tinning flux made a solid solder joint by itself. The "water soluble" part is where it gets tricky, because that type of flux will "burn" very quickly from excessive heat, so I am not sure what would happen as far as tinning the joint is concerned.



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Both types work fine, tinning flux leaves messy residue. I use either oatey #5 or nokorode paste. If you dont want corrosion at the joints, then wipe off flux just after solder hardens, wipe again with wet rag(you want to see steam) and wipe with clean rag. May seem anal but doesnt take that much time. Guaranteed compliments from homeowners! Will look shiny/new!

You covered the points pretty well. Tinning flux doesn't cost more either.


I use tinning flux because of its adhesion to the pipe when preparing. As far as finished look I'm not concerned about that, as much as I want a solid connection.

#5 I used for years but when it's really hot out it's hard to see if you have covered the piping, as when it is spread thin it's nearly clear.

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Everything in Plumbing can be repaired or replaced.

Been using nokorode for 42 years without any problems.I hate to see a sloppy job of sweating pipes ,especialy when it looks like a chicken roosted on them.If you are going to do a job ,do it right and be proud of it when you walk away from it.You set your own standards.

If they can sell it it helps to bead low temp solder.Just know that it can cook away if a higher temp lead free is used!But if your buying the best lennox solder off the shelf.you'll like it.

If you have that much difficulty using tinning flux and making it look good, that's an error in workmanship. I don't have that problem and I've set the standard higher than many can reach.


I've used nokorode in a pinch and wasn't impressed. I don't trust any flux that is really cheap.

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Everything in Plumbing can be repaired or replaced.

Crap Dunbar I don't think we can use it on other than waste here?

Nokorode has been around for a long time and will probably continue to be around because it works.If no one used it ,it would have disappeared long ago.Just because something costs more doesn't mean it is better.

i have tried many different flux's and i like nokarode the best. i can solder equally well no matter the flux but nokarode is the most forgiving heat wise imo

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