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Author:
Bruce22 (VA)
I need to install a pressure limiting valve to the customer side of my water utility box. My water company recently had a control line fail to a pressure regulator which allowed 150 psi. down stream and blew the coupler (poly to cpvc) righ off the wall and flooded my basement. They have advised residents to install a limiting valve in case this happens again. From the meter to the house I have 3/4" black poly pipe which converts to 3/4" CPVC inside the house. I prefer to install the limiting valve inside the water meter box. Any suggestions for brand, style, connection options etc.? Thanks!
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Author:
packy (MA)
install the right kind of fitting on the pressure side of the regulator and forget about a water limiting device. poly pipe is rated for 200PSI. plastic insert fittings should not be used. use a brass male by underground compression fitting. make sure to use a stiffener inside the pipe.
plumbing supply houses have these.

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Author:
packy (MA)
after re-reading your post 3 times, i'm confused. we are not using the same terminology.
if they are advising you to put a pressure reducing valve, then do it.
use the fitting i posted, rather than an insert adapter with hose clamps.
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Author:
Bruce22 (VA)
Thanks for the tips. I found this valve and would like to find brass fittings for the ends (hose clamp type) where I can splice it into the poly.
[www.bigbrandwater.com]
Would this be OK?
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Author:
packy (MA)
i'm not familiar with a pressure limiting valve. i don't even know what it is used for?
if you are splicing into black poly pipe where there is a chance of high pressure, you don't want any kind of hose clamp attachment. you want a compression adapter.the type used for underground piping has a screw on the nut that will cinch the compression end so it won't blow off.
this picture might be a little easier to see. this fitting is compression by female. you need a compression by male.
there is no soldering at all with these. you cut the poly pipe, insert a thin stainless steel stiffener inside the poly, slide this compression end over the poly and tighten. then tighten the screw to keep things from pulling apart.
P/S, i still don't know what a pressure limiter is? a pressure reducing valve that is factory set at a certain pressure?
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Author:
Bruce22 (VA)
Thanks again! Yes, I must be able to limit the pressure going to my house to 50-60 psi. When the Water Co. lost the control line to their pressure regulator, they sent 150 psi down the line to many homes. Many folks lost hot water heaters. At my home, the brass inside coupler with hose clamps that mated my internal CPVC to the external poly shot out which left water pouring out of the poly directly into my basement.
I will use the type of coupler you suggest and instead of trying to fit it inside the water box (24" underground), I'll have to install it where the poly enters my home through the basement wall. I only have 4" to work with and the poly may not be very strong. When installing the inside coupler, I had to heat the poly to get the coupler in and then clamp it with hose clamps while it was still pliable. Wish me luck!
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
Install the pressure regulator on the house side of the meter with brass transition fittings.The fitting that failed was doomed form install or it would not have.do you have a thermal expansion tank?Pressure relief valve?You may find installing a properly located pressure relief valve is a better option.Is the city paying for this failure.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
I assume by "limiting valve" they are referring to those devices which sense an unusual flow of water and turn off the system.
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Author:
Bruce22 (VA)
Is the city paying for the failure....NO, their insurance company (VML) claimed Soverign Immunity and everyone that got flooded is stuck with the repair bill. Welcome to Virginia folks.
I agree the fitting in my basement that failed was not designed to handle such a condition. The pressure limiting valve should function to step down any over-pressure conditions and only allow 50-60 psi. regardless of the input pressure (usually up to 200-300 psi on most PLVs)You would think the water meter would provide this functionality but no, it doesn't.
I believe I've found the correct PLV, now the question is where to install it. Dig another hole next to the public meter box and splice it in there (best location) or try to install it where the poly enters the house. Looks like I'm digging.
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
Bruce stop digging anywhere on the system!!! a pressure relief valve will do it's job.you could install it on a hose bib left in the on position and call the city when you see the flood waters coming out of it.it protects you and allows you to at any time bug the crap out of them until they get it right.I feel good about that.Do try to install it on or nearest the maximum size tubing you can.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
quote; The pressure limiting valve should function to step down any over-pressure conditions and only allow 50-60 psi. regardless of the input pressure (usually up to 200-300 psi on most PLVs)You would think the water meter would provide this functionality but no, it doesn't.
200-300 psi? Where do you live? In a cave at the bottom of a mountain. Most PRV's are rated at 150 psi operating pressure. Anything over that needs a higher quality one, AND even then they recommend that it be an intermediary one, with a secondary one to reduce it to actual working pressure. And WHY would water meter manufacturer's want to include a PRV in their units when not every application needs one, and it would just introduce another maintenance item to the package. Since the cities pay for the water meter, they also would not want the added cost when they can shift it to the homeowner. ALL they have to do is provide at least the minimum pressure.
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Author:
Bruce22 (VA)
Now thats the most creative idea yet. Thanks for the tip!
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Author:
hj (AZ)
You already have one on the water heater.
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Author:
LemonPlumber (FL)
Just be sure to read your water meter monthly after install.you will not want to pay for their mistake.
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