Happy Holidays,
OK, it's been a tough several months working to de-lead the hub, but everything old has been removed. I've purchased the 3" donut, as recommended, but it does not appear that it will create a water-tight seal between itself and the hub, even after I slide the 1.5" PVC pipe into the donut. The 1.5" pipe does not slide into the opening at the bottom of the hub, it just rests up against the stack opening. My concern is that the upstairs bathroom sink drain water will leak past the donut. Am I missing something, or should/can I use some type of sealant between the outside diameter of the donut and the inside diameter of the hub that would seal any gaps? There is a tight fit between the 1.5" PVP pipe and the inside diameter of the donut and I don't believe that water will leak back there. I'm open for any ideas, since I don't want to tear-up this floor ever again to access this connection.
As always thanks!
Rob Keane

There are different weights of cast iron, service weight & extra heavy. You need the proper size donut for your pipe.

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I didn't check your previous posts so I'm not 100% on what you're doing, but....I think that should be 1 1/2" abs or pvc pipe...not pvc tubing which has a smaller od.. either that or the donut is the wrong size

ok the nobs on the fitting looked like slip nuts...so wrong size donut?



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Your donut looks really loose. If so, DON'T try to use silicone. There are other size donuts which will better fit your cast iron. However, they may be hard to find. There are different weights of cast iron, as mentioned above. CI soil pipes not only have different weights (SV,XH), but apparently the tolerances vary a lot and you may need to have a donut special ordered to fit your hub.

[www.fernco.com]
[www.americanvalve.com]

The TY-Seals (.pdf link below page #44) look like they are designed for CI to CI only. Parts above look like better options for CI to PVC.
[www.tylerpipe.com] page 44

I think this discussion contains some info which you may find useful. I didn't see a date on the thread so contact numbers/links may be obsolete.
[www.plbg.com]

Good luck!

I believe Red and the others have you covered,If you don't have a hard time driving the rubber into the cast with the pvc pipe inserted in it you probably will not get a good seal.Good Luck.Some times it is all about the right doughnut.

You have a SW donut and you need an XH 3"XH X 1.5" Plastic donut.

PlumbCat TM 2003


Plumbermandan

I am not sure what you are asking, but the pipe ONLY slides in until it contacts the fitting. It does not go past the hub down into the pipe or fitting the hub is on. If everything is the correct size and done correctly, there is no sealant needed, because it will not leak. A leak indicates an improper connection and a sealer would just mask the deficiency.



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some oakum, lead and a short piece of pipe ( any older plumbing shop will probably give you those things or charge very little if you ask)--then transition with a mission band . it is always fun to get the irons back out.

In addition: a ladle, joint runner, caulking chisel(s), turbo torch...for a DIY'r, it might be better off getting the rubber to work right.

e-plumber
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John William Gardner 10/8/1912 - 2/16/2002

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This slow drip will waste 7+ gallons of water per day.

Hello Gang,
Well I've certainly gotten myself in a fine mess with this project! The hub I'm working with is non-standard, with an ID of 3.25". Talking with Dale at Fernco, no standard product available, so I've requested for a "custom-made" donut and haven't heard back as yet. Jeff, at American Value, no non-standard product solutions. Jimmy, at Plumbest, shared that a "transition coupling" may be a possibility, but the smoothness, or lack thereof is a concern. Another option was cutting-off the hub and using a saddle, but as you can see, there's no room. Thanks for all your comments, opinions and ideas, but any additional thoughts, before I call-in a real plumber to lead/oakum this connection? Another concern, in Ohio, or Cleveland specifically, is lead/oakum within the Code?
Thanks as always!
Rob

In a pinch .I would insert a coupling ,Into the doughnut and then try to drive it home.duck butter and a hardwood 1x2 may make it go.Good Luck.Do not strike the cast hub with the hammer.But if you get it in ,it will stay.Inspectors may not like this ,but most will let it pass.

hammers usually do not work in this situation due to the rubber having bounce. steady equal pressure is your friend when trying to insert anything into rubber

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A lead-oakum repair "should" be allowed, but with everyone FREAKING about lead anywhere you may be out of luck. In the tight spot you have, I would definitely call in a pro if you choose(and are allowed) the lead-oakum option.

Rough pitted CI surface could be a problem even for the multi-ribbed donuts. In my home repair, 2 hubs were pitted enough that I chose to use a little silicone for insurance. In my case, it worked fine. These were still tight-fitting donuts so the silicone was only there as a surface filler.

Your timing may be why you are not getting a faster response. It is the time of year when some companies like to shut down for a few days or a week. Especially in the current economy where business is down already. Personally, I'd wait a little longer for a response on the custom donut. If they say NO or 12 weeks or $200.00 , then I'd probably call a plumber for a lead-oakum fix.

Happy holidays and best wishes!



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a lead repair would be fine in this situation but fewer and fewer plumbers know how and i doubt the op ( a diy'er) knows how.

i have found only one situation where the rubber seal failed to provide 100% sealing capacity and that one case was where the cast iron was totaly rotten and was replaced with pvc

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I have used a ratcheting tie down strap to pull the pipe into a donut before. It did not leak!

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Robkeane,

I was just visiting my local plumbing supply store (a real one, not one of the big chain stores) and I spotted a large assortment of hub donuts. Most were for SV, but there were 2 boxes marked for XH !

Sorry, but neither one was for your size pipes (4"XH to 3" pvc and 4"XH to 2" pvc). Just letting you know that you should try to find your local plumbing supplier and do a little digging. You might get lucky. If not, they might have better connections to find and order one that does fit. Good luck!

Hi and Happy New Year To All,
After measuring this hub, unfortunately it's not an issue of extra heavy duty vs service weight hub construction. I have a non-standard, 3.25" diameter hub and I've not been successful in finding, a company, including Fernco, to make a one-off donut gasket. Sooooooo, I'm now working on Plan-B-C-D etc., and looking forward to read your comments. Living in Cleveland, OH, here are my options:
1) Sawing off the hub and using a "saddle" is not allowed by code, nor do I have the room.
2) The surface of the hub is not smooth enough to secure a water-tight connection to utilize a "boot" to fit over the hub opeing and clamp down on the exterior surface of the hub.
3) Although I can't determine if the Code allows re-leading this joint, I'm considering using the old style method of oakum, but substituting "Harvey's Soil Seal" compound instead of using lead to re-connect this joint. Anyone with experience using this "Soil Seal" product? It comes better recommended than using "plumbers epoxy".
As always, thanks in advance!
Rob

would try to find plumber that knows how to do lead joints and have it repaired that way

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