Just used PEX to replace 100+ year-old supply lines throughout an historic home, and now I've spent a few hours reading through threads here trying to decide how to transition to fixtures. It seems like there are 3 viable options:

-PEX straight out of the wall using an approved bend support
-PEX to copper el stub-out
-PEX to drop-ear with a nipple

What are the advantages and disadvantages of each of the above (and any other) options?

I think copper stub-outs or a nipple would probably look better aesthetically than PEX, and they both (if the copper is compression and not sweat) would allow for easier shut-off valve replacement, but the all PEX option means no in-wall connections, which is appealing.

That said, the stud walls in this old home are not always as deep as they should be, and 90-degree copper stub-outs and PEX bend supports don't really fit well in the wall cavity, so the drop-ear elbow with a nipple is probably the easiest way to go. Am I going to run into trouble doing that?

What am I missing here? Those of you who use PEX, what method do you prefer?

Thanks in advance for your input, and thanks for all I've already learned by reading old threads.

copper stub outs would look the best
threaded joint seems like extra work for no reason
direct pex stub out looks very sloppy, but eliminated all joints inside the wall which is the main advantage to pex..

it comes down to looks...does a floppy valve coming out of the wall matter to you?

option 4 would be to crimp a pex 90 at the stub out point. a drop eared 90 with a chrome nipple would be OK but would cost 7 to 8 times as much.
for trim, cut the pex at about 2", slip on a deep bell flange and use a 1/4 turn compression stop. no pex will show.

waukeshaplumbing , my first inclination is that a floppy valve at the wall is not so great. but, it is a sign of the times. mechanically, the connection is sound and long lasting whichever way it is piped.
it used to bother me that running pex for a job made it look like spaghetti. but, take a look at the wiring on a job. if run neatly, spaghetti piping isn't so bad.

You don't have to put the Valve tight to a flange to have good appearance on a loose pex stub out as part of option 4 you could use a chrome sleeve. Also, in older homes I frequently come up through floors rather than walls.



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of course, if the piping is inside a vanity or a kitchen cabinet, just install the stop.. use a 5 for a dollar cheap spun flange to cover the hole, if desired.

Thanks everyone for the info; I think I'm going to stub-out in PEX and use a chrome sleeve where it's visible. Not having a joint in the wall is a real plus, and I'll come up out of the floor in the places where the stud cavity won't allow a PEX bend.

Thanks again.

My question is: How do you get the pex to come out of the wall without using a pex 90 degree elbow? I am in the process of doing this right now in a new bathroom renovation, and am trying to figure out how to best have the pex coming out of the wall under the bathroom sink cabinet. The 1/2" pex tubing I am using seems too stiff and rigid to be able to bend sharply enough to come out of the wall (2x4 stud) without using a 90 degree elbow. Not really wanting to use an elbow behind a wall (if I can avoid it), I would like to know how you guys bend the pex (read something about a "bend support" to come out of a 1/2" drywall covered 2x4 studded wall.

I like the sleeve ideas, though, once I do get the pex through the wall.

Thanks for any help.

(just googled for the bend supports, I see what they are now)



Edited 1 times.

yes you need a bend support but i dont think pex will bend enough to come out of a 2x4 wall. it might though i havent had a need to try it and really hope i never do

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Looking at various PEX installation guides I'm under the impression that 1/2 PEX can be bent to a minimum radius of 3.75" to 5" (seems to vary by manufacturer). So seems like bending it to 90 degrees inside a 3.5" stud bay would be over the bend limit.