What is the correct permanent repair for this drain? A few years ago I discovered that the lead sleeve that went up to the toilet flange had become brittle and cracked which then leaked. I repaired that by sawing off a few inches of the lead and installing an extended flange. I am now finishing the basement and would like to fix this drain permanently. How would you guys do it?

Pull the toilet, pull the EXPANDO flange the you made work in the lead, buy a $20.00 Lennox Diamond Cast Iron Blade, cut the cast 4" from where it enters the stack and build the NEW closet bend from that point to the flange termination point on the floor above. Materials needed... 4' of properly sized PVC (same size that the cast is), 1 Cast to PVC Mission band or the proper size, A properly sized 90 Ell and finally a SS/PVC closet flange of the proper size.

PlumbCat TM 2003


Plumbermandan



Edited 1 times.

sounds about right!

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Advice above is excellent. Don't see a support strap on the cast iron to be cut. Please be careful, the cut piece will be heavy!

Good Luck!

Edit1( Approximately 35-40 lbs.; could do some damage on the way down if not supported when cut. )



Edited 1 times.

yeah, if the 1/2-3/4 copper is too close to cut the pipe comfortably, make the cut a little further away from the stack.
to that stock list, add PVC cement, primer, a "J" hook, 5/16 johni bolts, stainless screws(to secure the flange to the floor) and a plain wax seal.
what ever you do, don't let "Smockman" give you something different while telling you "this is just as good and cheaper".

Not that heavy! The proper way to repair it would be to remove the lead and insert a cast iron riser pipe with a lead/oakum cast iron flange, but because if its location it would be too difficult to do it that way, so cutting it off and converting to plastic is the best DIY way to do it.

what do you call the fitting at the stack? because saying 4x4x4x2 is redundant, we just call it a 4 x 2 tapped right hand estabrook. there may be another 2" tapping on the other side in which case it would be a 4 x 2 double tapped estabrook.
the tapping/s are slightly higher than the 4" inlet. this way, the tub and/or shower(if within the allowed distance) can enter the stack higher than the toilet. no individual vent needed.

We never used the tapped version it was always a hub inlet, but we called them right or left hand cottage tees, or a cottage cross with 2 inlets. Stringer made the opening on a plane with the inlets but other brands raised the inlet, but they were used interchangeably. Here that fitting is called a "Wisconsin tee".

Thanks for the clear instructions. Just one question, what is a J-hook ?

a plastic piece used to support plastic pipe

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It is a hook shaped like a "J" that you place over the pipe and then drive into the wood like a nail, or it has holes so you can nail it to the side of the wood member.

Some areas around here don't allow plastic "j" hooks, we need to use rubber coated galvanized strap hangers.

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This slow drip will waste 7+ gallons of water per day.

Up here we call them side outlet TYs or "Bungalows"