I'm going to install a basement toilet. Taking the advice to a previous question I asked on this forum, I'll be installing a sewage basin and a sewage pump. I've drawn a diagram of what I would like to do: Hopefully the diagram and legend will be legible.
The toilet drain will be 4" pvc into the sewage basin, with a 4x4x2 reducing wye for the lavatory drain coming in from the top. All of the other drain and vent pipe will be 2" pvc, with the proper slope of course. The bathroom is about 3' x 7', so there are no long pipe runs, except for the vent which will need to run to the attic to join an existing vent(total run about 40'. I was going to run the lavatory vent overhead to join with the sewage basin vent.
Questions I hope someone can answer:
1) I planned to use a sanitary tee where the two vents join overhead but am not sure if that meets IRC code (I'm in North Carolina). What would be the proper fitting to use there?
2) The lavatory drain will increase to 2" at the sanitary tee. It will then run through the studs to the sewage basin, making three 90 degree turns along the way. I believe I'll need to use 6" studs. Are 90 degree ells ok for the turns or should they be long sweep ells or something else? (total distance is less than 9 feet).
3) The existing 3" main house drain runs overhead, between the floor trusses, directly over the sewage basin where it makes a 90 degree turn then drops down about 4' along the exterior wall, where it makes another 90 degree turn and goes through the wall. The easiest place for me to cut the pipe and install a 3x3x2 reducing wye for the sewage discharge would be along the 4' vertical section. The alternate plan would be to wye into the horizontal pipe overhead, just before it makes the turn downward. I can't find a reference in the IRC as to whether it's permissable to wye into the short vertical section. I show both plans on the diagram.
4) Not shown on the diagram is the eventual connection of the vent shown to an existing 2" vent in the attic, above the first floor. What type of fitting should be used for that connection? A sanitary tee?
5) Code states that the pipe shall not be in concrete. How are penetrations through the concrete handled (foam around the pipe, etc)?
Thanks in advance.





Edited 1 times.

the vents are connected with sanitary tees but remember the vent runs backwards from the drain lines so the vent fittings will go in backwards to your drain fittings. talk to your local code officials as to what to use for concrete penetrations, usually a few wraps of duct tape will do it. why so many sweeps for the lav.? the line will be under concrete so just point to and come up as close to where the drain needs to be. i am not sure of the distance from a change in direction that the pump needs to tie into a line. you may need to take the tie in back a foot or so in the horizontal.

- - - - - - -

PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

G,H and L should be long sweep 90's. a cleanout would be nice where the lav drain sticks out of the floor.
put a cleanout where the 2" discharge enters the 3" main.

1. Yes a tee will be fine here. You have it drawn correctly, the branch sweeping upward.
2. Horizontal to horizontal and vertical to horizontal changes need to be made with a long sweep ells.
3. 712.3.5 states that pumps connected to the drainage system shall connect to a wye fitting a minimum of 10' from the base of any stack, or when a connection is made on the horizontal run the branch of the wye must be vertical.
4. A tee will be fine for that connection.
5. Duct tape, cardboard, foam, etc.

Very nice drawing nevertheless

e-plumber
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"The society which scorns excellence in Plumbing as a humble activity and tolerates shoddiness in philosophy because it is an
exalted activity will have neither good Plumbing nor good philosophy: neither its pipes nor its theories will hold water." -
John William Gardner 10/8/1912 - 2/16/2002

Repair your leaking Plumbing fixtures ASAP [www.theplumber.com]
This slow drip will waste 7+ gallons of water per day.

Yes very nice plan... A few little mods as previously suggested your good to go. In your research did you find out about the quiet check valve? Might want to find one of those.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Since 1995 (3 years before Google started) PlumbingSupply.com has been THE best plumbing supplier on the web. Please visit our sponsor [www.PlumbingSupply.com]

i think packy meant G, H, and I not L

- - - - - - -

PLUMBERS "Protecting The Health Of The Nation"

Thanks for all the feedback. I should have noted on the diagram that the horizontal run of the lavatory drain shown is actually drawn about 18" above the floor (running through the studs), and not under the concrete, as would be logical. I didn't want to cut any more concrete that I had to, but I may just "bite the bullet" and run the line under the concrete as it would eliminate having to use 6" studs in an already crowded area.
Someone mentioned a "quiet check valve". I've never heard of that. I didn't know they made noise. I'm planning to use a 2" Zoeller Full Flow PVC check valve (30-0021) with neoprene couplings. I've also invested in a top-notch (I hope) 100% stainless steel sewage pump from Grainger (4NY20). I don't EVER want to service it (Ha!, you say! I can hope.).
Thanks for the info relating to the pump discharge distance requirements from the base of the stack. I'll plan on placing the discharge 3x3x2 reducing wye on the horizontal run of the main drain, branch up, of course. One question relating to that: From the Charlotte Pipe website ( [www.charlottepipe.com] ), the drawing for a 3x3x2 wye shows that the wye is about 7" long (5" inside from stop to stop). If the sewer line is pretty much locked in place (no room to move it end-to-end) is there a trick to inserting a 7" fitting into a 5" cut in the sewer line? Thanks again.

it's always hard to cut a fitting into a stack with no play. they make a slip coupling that is a coupling with no stop in the middle. you slide it on, apply some primer and glue, glue in the "Y" on one end and (hopefully) slide the slip coupling where it should go. kinda need 3, 4 or 5 hands to do this.
you can use no-hub couplings. glue 6" pieces into each end of the "Y". cut out of the stack the appropriate piece. slide the no-hub couplings onto your ends. roll the rubber back like you were rolling up your sleeve. put in the piece, roll the rubber back over the ends and tighten the stainless steel bands.