You know, books are great, but they often leave out the important details that newbies really need to know.

Like, when a book talks about stubouts, it never really says how long to make them.

When I'm roughing in the plumbing do I already need to have my fixtures on hand to know how long to make the stubouts? And, are the stubouts typically threaded or copper or is that, too, dependent on my fixtures?

Basically, I'm working on the rough-in of a bathroom, have kind of picked out at least the tub, lav/tub faucets, but haven't actually purchased them. Must I do that before really being able to proceed with the supply line stubouts?

i wanna say, at least around new england, that stubouts are typically copper. you don't see threaded stubouts much anymore. when a house is piped in pex or cpvc, the stubout will be whatever the installing plumber uses.
i don't pay too much attention as to how much the tubing sticks out of the wall. 6" is usually plenty but if i have a piece of tubing laying on the floor and it is 8", i use it. after all it only gets cut off at the finish stage and a c/p flange and shutoff is installed.

I HAVE ALWAYS USED THE RULE OF CETERING YOUR STUB OUT TO WHERE YOUR DRAIN IS FOR SINKS .4-6 INCHES EITHER SIDE HOT AND COLD . WC 6-8 INCHES OFF TO LEFT SIDE OF CENTER OF FLANGE OPENING.BATH TUB O0NLY MATTERS FOR THE DRAIN LOCATION IF AN ODD STYLE THEN YOU NEED THE SPECK SHEET TO LOCATE DRAIN LOCATION ,IF STANDARD TUB IE 60IN X 30IN THEN EVERYTHING IS DONE LEFT OR RIGHT OFF THE CENTER OF THE TUB.HOPE THIS HELPS

It sounds like you're working with copper. The bathtub faucet doesn't matter, it's in the wall, just stub up higher than where the valve body will be installed. For the toilet and lavatory basin stub out longer than you need and cut them down when you install the valves & set the fixtures.

On a pedestal, wall hung or any lavatory that has exposed piping we use 1/2" sweat sleeved valves X 3/8" compression, the same for the toilet.
Inspectors here frown on compression angle stops.

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This slow drip will waste 7+ gallons of water per day.

i'm with most here I make my stub outs 8".On single bowl sinks I put them 3" on each side of drain makin them 6" on centr of each other,and 16" above sub floor.On dbl sink bowls mainly kit if there is a window I find centr of window then go 3" on each side again making 6" from center to center of stubs and also 16" above subflooor.

6" works ,copper on lavies ,For toilets you have more trim options with 3/8"nipple ,if chrome just go with copper stub.I've been using Holdrite straps ......copper coated steel with a variety of pipe sizes ,fasten to stud face, solder to tubing.Pedistal lavies can be tight,the valve handles can hit the pedistal .Ip nipples save alittle space.Check you'r fixture cut sheet before you start...Bob

Also for w/c I go 6" to left of hole 8" off subfloor with 8" stub.

As you can tell by all the posts, stubouts are a personal preference. On a lavatory, I stub out the drain 2" left or right of centerline so that the drain assembly won't hit the trap. The water stubs 4" off center and under the drain stubout for ease of hooking up the supply tubes.



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Thanks to all who posted so far. I do appreciate the info.

Though several focused on the location of the stubouts and NOT the length as my question asked, I think I got enough to understand that the stubout is basically just a place holder, typically longer than really needed. It will get cut off to size when installing the valves, etc. Is this right?

I would infer, then from this info that it really isn't necessary to have the fixtures in hand to look at installation instructions in order to do the rough plumbing. Is that accurate?

I love boards like this one that let the little informed become more informed. The only drawback sometimes is that the more informed on the boards tend to talk in their jargon and forget that we don't all work in that arena.

One person said to refer to the fixture's "cut sheet." ??? What is that?

I'm actually planning to try doing the supply with PEX, but understand that the stubouts will have to be something else as they get ready to enter the actual fixtures.

"cut sheet" is the manufacturer's drawing showing the "recommended" location of the pipes for that fixture.