We are doing some remodeling and I would like to add beadboard behind the toilet. That would add 1/2" to the thickness of the wall, and would therefore reduce the distance from the finished wall to the toilet. Can this be dealt with easily when the toilet is re-installed, or should I remove the existing wallboard (1/2" behind the toilet and attach my beadboard directly to studs, keeping the original wall-to-toilet distance?

That would all depend on how much space was behind the toilet tank if you have at least 5/8" it will be fine to put the bead board on top of the drywall

what is the exact distance from the current finish wall to the center of the flange?

That is IMMATERIAL because toilets have different distances from the tank to the wall, regardless of the distance to the pipe opening. How far is the tank from the wall NOW? If it is more than the thickness of the beadboard, then OBVIOUSLY it will work.

The current tank is flush to the finished wall. I was wondering (hoping) that there was some adjustment possible between the tank and the toilet. That is, could the toilet stay in its current position, but could the tank move in 1/2 inch" I don't know if there is some type of adjustment or adapter that could be used.

The toilet is in place, so I can't see the flange. I can say that the bolts are currently 11.5 inches from the wall. Keep in mind that the toilet will stay in the same position. I am asking if the tank can shift 0.5 inches. I don't know if there is any adjustment possible between the tank and the toilet, or if there is some adapter that will allow the tank to be mounted 0.5 inches in from its original position.

Yes, that is obvious to me. However, the tank is right up against the current wall. I'm wondering if there is any leeway between the tank and the toilet that would allow the tank to me mounted 0.5" closer to the front of the toilet. I suppose I could look for a toilet that has a different distance from the waste pipe to the back of the tank. Is that possible?

If that is the case then no. It will leak.

There's no adjustment of the tank to the bowl. Look for a 10" rough-in toilet.

There is NO WAY to make that happen and still have the toilet function properly. A different toilet MAY have more space between the wall and the tank, but you would have to measure each one to find out.



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Thank you all for your help. I think I will remove the wallboard (0.5" and replace it with beadboard (0.5". That should do it.

There is NO, repeat NO, tank adjustment.

You 'should' have 12" from the bolts to the finished wall (not the baseboard).

'Generally' this would result in 'about' 1/2" clearance between tank and wall. Some models more, some less.

As you are tight now (due to the 11.5" rough-in) you have two options:

Remove sheetrock and replace with beadboard. You will STILL be too tight.

or

Find a 10" 'rough-in' toilet which will give you about 1" clearance in your particular situation after you lay the beadboard OVER the existing sheetrock.


10" rough toilet: [www.bing.com]

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

All of the above is the reason in new construction I put the toilet flange 13 inches from framing not 12 inches

Is it best if the toilet tank rests against the back wall for support? The only thing holding the tank to the bowl are those 2 small bolts thru rubber washers on the bottom of the tank. If there is a gap behind the tank can't it tip back when someone is leaning back against the seat lid and pressing the tank to tilt it to the rear? Maybe I over worry about that but it seems like something that shouldn't be allowed to happen and a proper installation would prevent.



Edited 1 times.

Quote

Is it best if the toilet tank rests against the back wall for support?

NO

The tank should rest porcelain to porcelains. The bolts merely compress the gasket and hold the tank in place.

As you tighten down the bolts EVENLY there is a point where it 'connects' china to china. Just a 'fine hair' more tightening to compress the rubber washers in the tank. DONE

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638

You DO NOT use additional nuts to secure the bolts TO THE tank?

yes, hj, of course I do


looking downward:

place bolt with rubber washer through tank (only a rubber washer under the bolt head inside tank)

s/s washer (under tank)

nut

after tightening this 'assembly' (tank, bolts are now 'one piece)

place through bolt holes in toilet bowl (making sure the flush gasket is properly centered)

rubber washer (for compression purposes)

s/s washer

nut

? I hope I got it correct - did I pass ?

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"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638