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Author:
immaprofessional (NJ)
Hi,
I hope someone can help me here. We just moved into our first house. We took out old cabinets and replaced them w/ Ikea cabinets ( not custom) and just had the sink installed. This doesn't look right to me. I'm trying to figure out if the cabinets were installed correctly because the hole wasn't centered. I'm guessing it was the cabinet installers who made the holes for the pipes at the bottom. But then the plumber put in the covers of the holes and it only covers about half the hole leaving lots of room for mice etc. What can be done about that?
Then there's the question about the extra white hosing taking up lots of extra space. Any reason for that? Also the silver metal hose takes up needed storage space. Does that have to be like that?
Thanks so much for any help.
Here's the image bc I don't know how to add one to this site. [imgur.com]
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Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
The white hose needs to be fastened to the underside of the countertop. It looks like it's too low and backflow can occur from the sink into the dishwasher if the piping becomes clogged. The dishwasher tailpiece can be rotated so that the hose enters from the backside.
The silver hose could probably be pushed back under the dishwasher to take up some of that slack.
Larger plates could be used to cover the holes, spray foam insulation could also be sprayed there to keep out the ants and such.
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Author:
immaprofessional (NJ)
Thanks so much NC! This is very helpful.
And I'm sorry to be so ignorant but do I call the plumber back and tell him this and ask him to fix it or figure the money's gone that I paid him and best not to have this person do any more work and hire someone else entirely?
Thanks again.
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Author:
packy (MA)
the drilled holes were made extra big intentionally. the installer (i hesitate to call him a plumber) was too lazy to remove the old shutoffs (red handles) so he just left them. that is unacceptable for an expensive kitchen remodel.. nothing he used was good quality. the sink strainer has a white metal nut that will corrode in a few years and the angle stops are not the good 1/4 turn variety.
will everything work? yeah it will
did you recieve the cheapeast job possible? yes you did..
lastly, those are brand new cabinets ???
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Author:
bernabeu (SC)
... like a 'big box' store says:
NEVER stop improving.
==============================================
"Measure Twice & Cut Once" - Retired U.A. Local 1 & 638
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Author:
hj (AZ)
What did he do wrong? The cabinet installers are the one who "used a cannon" to make the holes in the floor, and he wrapped the extra white hose rather than have it hang in the cabinet. He DID what he could with what YOU gave him.
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Author:
hj (AZ)
AND what makes you think the plumber was the "installer" and if he was anywhere near the house when the cabinets were installed. The plumber usually ONLY shows up after the countertop is installed which is LONG after the cabinets were done. MOST sink stainers have that type of lock nut, and it ONLY "corrodes" if the drain is leaking.
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Author:
stuckinlodi (MO)
If it was mine I'd do something like this:
Get a flat, round white cover plate, they have them in places like Home Depot and other stores. They are used for a variety of things, like covering an unused recessed lighting fixture hole or electrical box in the ceiling, plus other reasons. They come in different sizes, get one a little larger than the opening in the cabinet. Some are vinyl (plastic), some are metal, I'd get the plastic ones to make the job easier. It will sorta look like the backside of a round lid off a Cool Whip container but sturdier.
Make the hole in the middle large enough to fit around the pipe coming out of the wall. Then cut the round cover in half like where the dashed line is in the photo below. Place each piece above and below the pipe coming out of the wall, position it so it is up against the round pipe coming out of the wall and so the cabinet hole is covered, then screw it in place something like where the red "x" are on the photo. They make white colored screws, they are used for vinyl fencing and lattice panels, but just about any screw with coarse threads and a sharp point (like a short deck screw) will work.
Doing this is making your own "escutcheon", they make them in smaller sizes but I haven't seen any large ones. If you or a friend is handy you can make one of these from a thin piece of shelving, paneling or other material (plastic or wood). They don't have to be round, you could make a square one if you prefer.
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Below is a split escutcheon, you can see how it comes apart for installation around a pipe:
Edited 12 times.
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Author:
sum (FL)
Do you really have mice there going in and out of those holes?
Since it's a cabinet and you just need things mechanically sound and functional, I would just stuff some newspaper into the hole as support, then use some patching compound (wood filler, epoxy patcher etc...) to fill in the holes and be done with it. The dishwasher hose need to be remedied as suggested previously.
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Author:
Don411 (IN)
The white DW drain hose heeds to be higher at some point than where it tees into the sink drain. One way to do that is to drill a hole at the top of the cabinet partition and route it that way, use a zip tie or something to hold it up that high, or else use an air gap.
Like this
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Author:
hi (TX)
I would recommend a special tailpiece with dishwasher branch as it is a g led and may make a better connection.
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