Over 698,000 strictly plumbing related posts
Plumbing education, information, advice, help and suggestions are provided by some of the most experienced plumbers who wish to "give back" to society. Since 1996 we have been the best online (strictly) PLUMBING advice site. If you have questions about plumbing, toilets, sinks, faucets, drains, sewers, water filters, venting, water heating, showers, pumps, and other strictly PLUMBING related issues then you've come to the right place. Please refrain from asking or discussing legal questions, or pricing, or where to purchase products, or any business issues, or for contractor referrals, or any other questions or issues not specifically related to plumbing. Keep all posts positive and absolutely no advertising. Our site is completely free, without ads or pop-ups and we don't tract you. We absolutely do not sell your personal information. We are made possible by:
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
The drain is missing it's rubber gasket, that goes on the outside of the pipe and inside the drain body. I'd first try installing the gasket and see if it still leaks, if so the drain will have to be removed.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
chatyak (Non-US)
Thank you for the timely response. There was a rubber gasket in there prior. I took these photos just now without it in there. Part of the piece remaining is cracked down below with a tiny chip as well.
How would we remove the drain?
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
Best way would be to make that access hole a bit bigger and reach in there with a pair of channel locks and loosen the retaining nut. The drain then could be lifted free from the shower floor. I would then cut the pipe off and use a drain that tightens from the top. You would still have to reach under there and glue the lower portion of the drain to the pipe, but then you silicon and tighten the flange from inside the shower.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
chatyak (Non-US)
Thank you for the response. Would a mini hacksaw also work to loosen the drain? Cut a small piece out and then break/squeeze/pull it out from the top - causing the bottom part to simply fall down?
If the method you suggested doesn't work, might have to replace the premade shower itself.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
North Carolina Plumber (NC)
That would work, as would an internal pipe cutter, the style that uses a mini circular saw blade.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
pbw (OH)
try this before any cutting. loosen(do not remove) large nut under the shower drain, clean any old caulk between shower & drain, clean real well & dry. push in new plumbers caulk all around drain between drain & shower. re-tighten
large nut, some putty should squeeze out all the way around(that's what you want) clean up excess. re-install the rubber gasket, then test for leaks.
north Carolina plumber has a good idea if this doesn't work.
|
Post Reply
|
Author:
steve (CA)
There's also retro-fit shower drains that install from the top.
[www.youtube.com]
Edited 1 times.
|
Post Reply
|
Please note:
- Inappropriate messages or blatant advertising will be deleted. We cannot be held responsible for bad or inadequate advice.
- Plbg.com has no control over external content that may be linked to from messages posted here. Please follow external links with caution.
- Plbg.com is strictly for the exchange of plumbing related advice and NOT to ask about pricing/costs, nor where to find a product (try Google), nor how to operate or promote a business, nor for ethics (law) and the like questions.
- Plbg.com is also not a place to ask radiant heating (try HeatingHelp.com), electrical or even general construction type questions. We are exclusively for plumbing questions.
Search for plumbing parts on our sponsor's site:
Special thanks to our sponsor:
|