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 cap copper lines
Author: Pipe runner (AZ)

Good Morning plumbers

so my service plumbing fears are two....flood a home/business AND/OR burn down a home/business!

Restaurant owner would like me to remove the ball valves (see pic) and cap two 1/2 copper lines.

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OK so one time in a residence I was capping a 1/2 copper line and the heat from soldering a cap traveled through the copper pipe and caused the insulation in contact with the pipe in the next bay to start to smoke. I think I lost 6 months of life when I saw smoke escaping from the wall in a 600K 2 story home. I grabbed my hammer and opened up the dry wall to find indeed that the insulation was indeed smoldering. Yikes.

So I would prefer to cut open the wall and make sure there is no flammable insulation BUT the owner does not want me to do this. This is a commercial restaurant so I imagine there is no insulation in the wall and the pipes themselves may or may not be insulated.

So AM I being overly cautious? Any helpful input on this is great. A small pay check is not worth the risk right?

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 Re: cap copper lines
Author: Plumberpalmer (MA)

How far from the wall will you be capping these lines anything more than a 2" you should have no risk of fire if you use a small enough tip. And don't over heat the fitting

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 Re: cap copper lines
Author: Pipe runner (AZ)

if you look at the pic you can see I will have to "de sweat" 1/2 copper 90's leaving about 3/4" of copper pipe off the wall and then solder on two caps.

Post Reply

 Re: cap copper lines
Author: hj (AZ)

Soldering the caps onto "closed" lines may be an interesting task. If possible, I would use Sharkbite caps. However, I cannot imagine EVER heating a copper line so hot that it set ANYTHING on fire in the next bay

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 Re: cap copper lines
Author: Pipe runner (AZ)

Yes, I thought about using shark bite caps too. Now these two lines drop from the ceiling down the wall. If I shut off the cold feed to the building and open the ball valves and release the water I should be able to desolder the copper 90's right? any residual water will boil off and I can then twist and pull the 90's off leaving a short stub out and then Shark Bite caps. But I would prefer to solder on caps. I guess I'm being overly cautious on this project.

Post Reply

 Re: cap copper lines
Author: sum (FL)

Why not just cut them off and cap with john guest or sharkbite end caps?

Last time I tried soldering on a cap I couldn't the air inside the pipe expands when heated and kept popping the cap off or the steam blowing holes in the melted solder.

Post Reply

 Re: cap copper lines
Author: packy (MA)

if you have any water at all it will be a mild nightmare to solder on a cap.
you might use a male adapter so any steam will not push the cap off. then screw on a brass cap.

Post Reply

 Re: cap copper lines
Author: packy (MA)

sum,when i saw that you replied i thought maybe you were going to offer him some no-corode at a reduced price..

Post Reply

 Re: cap copper lines
Author: hj (AZ)

that is why I said trying to solder the caps on might be "interesting".

Post Reply

 Mucho appreciation for this site, the pros and semi-pros :cheers:
Author: Pipe runner (AZ)

great advice folks.
wow thanks.

sweat on male adapter with small tip and low heat/ add brass cap

done deal.

Mucho appreciation for this site, the pros and semi-pros :)



Edited 1 times.

Post Reply

 Re: cap copper lines
Author: NoHub (MA)

I'm 100% with Packy....female adapters with brass plugs.We only use sharks as a temporary measure.

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